Clanking and clunking sounds | FerrariChat

Clanking and clunking sounds

Discussion in '360/430' started by Robb195512, Nov 26, 2018.

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  1. Robb195512

    Robb195512 Rookie

    Aug 16, 2009
    16
    I have a 2009 Scuderia with 9000 miles on it. I have been experiencing clanking and clunking sounds especially when I drive on semi rough roads. But it doesn't happen all the time. I sounds as if it is coming from the suspension. Has anyone with had a similar problem?
     
  2. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    6,924
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    Common issue with all f430

    Check the ball joints and bushing up front

    Get a Indy to change use hill replacement ones

    If you search on this forum .. many posts on ball joints on f430



    Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
     
  3. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,961
    Isle of man- uk
    The ball joints are easy to do yourself and will save you a lot of money, be sure to get the new ones from Hill Engineering or Superperformance in the uk. They also sell the extractors you need to remove them from the arm.
    If you get OEM ball jpoints from Ferrari, you will have the same problem again as they are plated mild steel and the plating comes off and tears the nylon bush to pieces.
    The Hill engineering replacements are stainless so will last for years.
    You will need to jack the car up and remove the arm- you can then push out the old ball joint and fit the new one on the bench. Take the oportunity to free up the arm rubbers while it is off
     
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  4. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,961
    Isle of man- uk
    My top ball joints only did 6000 miles, i now have 2 lower ones to change at 11500 miles.
    Another thing to check is the wear in the steering ball joints and the rear tie bar ball joints.
    Jack a wheel up and hold the wheel at 3 and 9 o clock, see if it has any movement in it side to side. Should be none
     
  5. RedNeck

    RedNeck F1 World Champ
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    Another vote for balls. They really are an easy job to DIY.
     
  6. Doctor Mark

    Doctor Mark Formula Junior

    Dec 15, 2005
    919
    Georgia
    Full Name:
    Mark Gronsbell
    If they are like the ball joints on a 360 they also require the use of a special adhesive which is also available.
     
  7. RedNeck

    RedNeck F1 World Champ
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    Loctite 9360...ain't that special..
     
  8. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,961
    Isle of man- uk
    Not that special, but boy is it over priced
     
  9. mike01606

    mike01606 Formula Junior

    Feb 21, 2012
    794
    Cheshire UK
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    Mike M
    Use Hysol 9466.....still Ferrari specified for ball joint replacement and a quarter the price.
     
  10. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,961
    Isle of man- uk
    Just a pic to show how poor the OEM parts are, only 6000 miles on this, so be sure to use the hill engineering parts in stainless.
    You are seeing the plating coming off the mild steel
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
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  11. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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    May 29, 2001
    18,044
    USA
    I would suggest the OP search the data base of this forum for other possible causes as well. I noticed there are several other threads over the years, specific to the 430 Scuderia dealing with knocking noises in the front suspension. While the ball joints is a common and known problem, it has not solved the problem for all. There are suggestions (but not definitive) of flam blocs, lower shock bolt and bushing, sway bar end links and other items as possible sources. It will take some diagnostic time to find the true source.
     
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  12. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,961
    Isle of man- uk
    Once you get it on a trolley jack and the weight off the arms you can feel the excess clearence in the parts with a pinch bar
     
  13. John_K_348

    John_K_348 F1 Rookie

    Sep 20, 2013
    2,753
    Boston, MA
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    John E. Kenney
    Yup, ball joints. My big project for next year, God willing. And yes I want to do the arm bushes too if possible. They are trash on my Spider. I'm afraid the car sat a lot before I got it. 2 owners and only 8900 miles in 14 years. What a disgrace! ;) I'm kidding (now at 20k) because the interior and paint are in very good shape minus the usual stickies. I even lubed the joints with a needle tip the past 2 years. Made a huge difference last year. The sweet silence! But this year did not last. A couple months ago it was back. I used sticky grease when the heavy duty option might have been better. Didn't want to swap the tubes in the gun. But the play is probably too much anyway. Get those Hill beauties and do it right! :D
     
  14. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
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    Motor bike synetic chain grease is very good, if you put the plastic tube down through the ball joint seal and spray a bit in. It sprays like wd 40, then sets like grease. Being bike chain grease it resists water
     
  15. rizzo308

    rizzo308 F1 Rookie
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    Sep 12, 2004
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    riggio
  16. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
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    Those are the upper set in case anyone is wondering, the lowers have a step on the outer race
     
  17. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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    Here is a video about flam blocs being a possible source of noise:
     
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  18. delaney

    delaney Formula Junior

    Nov 8, 2003
    721
    Montgomery TX
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    PETER DELANEY
    I read a lot about these and other bits failing at very low miles...engine and tranny mounts... ball joints. Is this simply bad design/ materials. , or have these cars been tracked a lot? Or is time a function...or even storing a car during the lousy driving months?
     
  19. RedNeck

    RedNeck F1 World Champ
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    A combination of old/substandard designs and Ferraris sitting unused much more than a "regular" car.
     
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  20. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,961
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    The ball joint problem is down to being made of mild steel and then a very poor chrome plate job. It lifts off the steel and gets into the seal and chews it up, hence the wear and loose fit
     
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  21. Skidkid

    Skidkid F1 Veteran
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    Aug 25, 2005
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    This!

    Is that bad design? I would say it is a low quality OEM part, not a design flaw.
     
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  22. RedNeck

    RedNeck F1 World Champ
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    I was referring more to the motor mounts, were they not redesigned?
     
  23. Skidkid

    Skidkid F1 Veteran
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    Aug 25, 2005
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    I know they changed materials but I am not sure if they changed shape. Plus, the motor & transaxel are basically a rigid body. The headers are bolted to the motor and to the back of the transaxel so they are part of that rigid body and move with it as one. The motor mounts do not cause any header load unless the rear exhaust mount breaks or the header hits something like the frame. The loading on exhaust headers is all thermal and caused by expansion combined with lack of give in the rear mount. Motor mounts could contribute to failure of those rear mounts and/or failure from there back to the exhaust can but not to the headers.
     
  24. John_K_348

    John_K_348 F1 Rookie

    Sep 20, 2013
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    #25 John_K_348, Dec 10, 2018
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2018
    Motor and tranny mounts were done at service before I bought it. Yes the bushings fail from lack of use. I have to do the fronts as well since I can see the perished rubber fraying under the metal casings.

    Rizzo, do you still have those? Are the boots included? Need the tool too. I am in a bind now because I just pulled the trigger on a winter wheel and tire set for my Quad. OZs and SottoZs. Wheels coming from Italy, now 4 to 6 weeks.
     

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