Ok. Need the brain power and experience of all you geniuses here as I am a Class-A dummy, How the heck do I clean the mating surfaces between the valve-covers and heads "spick and span" for the new gaskets & seals to be inserted? These surfaces are D-I-R-T-Y. Obviously I want to minimize the amount of crud that comes loose from getting into the engine. What is the BEST products and tools and procedures to use? What are the things NOT to do? BTW - Motor is IN.
Penetrant oil a razor and patience. Sometimes that not enough especially if you had the crappy black gaskets tha superformance sells (not putting superformance down just the gasket they sell). If that is the case spray the head w/brake cleaner and cover the cams and valley with a rag and seal with duct tape. You will need scotch bright pads at that point. They do make a scotch bright attachment for dreml and drills but keep the pads wet with oil. After you do that job once you will appreciate the value of the green gaskets.
Careful use of a single-edge razor blade, followed by a small piece of scotchbrite with carb-cleaner to get everything squeaky clean. An assortment of picks and small scrapers at your disposal for the tricky spots can be handy.
I know this sound a little weird but using a little cooking spray on the new gaskets ensue they come off easier next time you do the job.
vacuum cleaner/shop vac whatever you used hold the hose next to where your scraping with the Razor blade to suck it up as you scrape.
All of the black gaskets sold by a few folks here in the States can cause these same problems. Cheaper upfront, a royal pain down the road... Power tools of any sort and aluminum do not go hand in hand. In extreme cases, just pull the studs and spend the time. So true!
I removed the studs with a special socket (3 rollers) and cleaned the surfaces with a scraper tool and vacuum cleaner. The surfaces were finished with scotch brite and solvent Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The belt covers and the cam covers were cleaned by blasting using plastic particles to prevent damage to the alloy. After cleaning they were wash primered, primered, and pained with silver grey, and finished by adding a clear coat to protect the paint Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Bah I have seen people scratch surfaces with razors and picks. Like anything if you take your time you will be fine with a power tool
Thanx All, Looks like I just got a long row to hoe ............. Oh well, there are "happy moments" and "not so happy moments ......" To borrow a phrase ..... "FORWARD!!!"
Nah... Aluminum is much softer than you think. Here's are two perfect examples why power tools should never be used on aluminum. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
hmm... are you sure that you would call that the fault of the power tool and not the user in choosing too abrasive a material? I too have seen folks cut out pieces of aluminum using a single edge razor, the angle gets off just a bit and off come aluminum bits. I would think that the proper abrasive disc would work a treat although a bit messy. Lester
David, Well ....... it IS CLEAN ................ Kill-Joy. Serious Question: Will the "Green" gaskets (likely) prevent those cratches in the pics from leaking?
Bah I say Bah Cleaned no gouges and as you can see the black gaskets were used. You can screw things up using either method and some people are out of their skill set using tools where surface finish is important. In the end you should use any tool only if you know what you are doing and power tools can be used but the black gaskets should never be. Image Unavailable, Please Login
