355 - Climate control dead | FerrariChat

355 Climate control dead

Discussion in '348/355' started by RudyP, Feb 21, 2023.

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  1. RudyP

    RudyP Formula Junior
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    #1 RudyP, Feb 21, 2023
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2023
    The climate control in my 1995 F355 stopped working. Regardless of setting, there is no fan, no airflow, nothing. Some facts that may help with diagnosing the issue:
    - The panel seems to be getting power as the "STOP" and recirc buttons illuminate when pressed
    - I checked fuse 25 in the pax footwell for "AC System" according to the manual and it is perfectly fine
    - I suspect this may be related to the fact that I recently had to remove this bracket with a relay/control module on it (see pic) due to a broken stud when replacing the shock actuators. I am 99% certain it is all back exactly as I found it, correctly reconnected but Google suggests the Bosch module is a blower control unit for a Fiat and that seems suspiciously like the issue at hand...

    I'm wondering if I pulled a wire out of one of the connectors by accident... Any thoughts or advice?

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  2. RudyP

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    Edit to add: I ordered a NOS Bosch module because they are pretty cheap but it won't be here until early/mid March and I worry that the issue could be in the wiring/connectors or somewhere else altogether.
     
  3. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    The STOP and RECIRC buttons get power from a different fuse. Panel power still comes from fuse 25. Did you check fuse 25 with an ohmmeter. "Looks good" is not a proper diagnosis :p
    With a multimeter, you can also check the voltage is getting to the fuse (to eliminate a relay/fuse panel issue)

    The Bosch part you have taken a photo of is the Windscreen Wiper Control Module (P/N 153095)
     
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  4. RudyP

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    Thanks Qavion!

    Is there another fuse I need to look for? Fuse 25 looks 100% fine. Is there another diagnostic step I can take?

    On the Bosch module - Are you certain? I saw that on one parts diagram but searching for the Bosch part number shows repeated, multiple site references to “blower control unit”. How could it be a blower control unit for some cars and wiper control module on an F355?
     
  5. RudyP

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    Never mind my questions about the fuse. I see your updated response. Going to check and I’ll be right back
     
  6. Qavion

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    Sorry, about that... I have a thousand things hidden in my memory bank... They don't always come to me at once.

    There is a 30 amp "hidden" fuse in the front luggage compartment. It is notorious for melting (along with the fuseholder). I don't know if it will take out the whole system, but it's a good starting point. It's on the right hand side of the HVAC fresh air intake/blower assembly. Unfortunately, the luggage liner has to come out again for you to see it.
     
  7. Qavion

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  8. RudyP

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    Thanks Ian - I'll take a look at that next.

    I just confirmed fuse 25 is indeed working and also seems to be powering my radio (there is a lot of aftermarket radio work that has been done to my car over the years - I've tried to have it mostly undone but clearly it is not quite stock).

    So my radio seems to need both fuse 4 (correct fuse according to manual) and fuse 25 to operate.
     
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  9. Qavion

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    Now that I think about it, not much will work on the car without fuse 25 (including the instruments, the Spider roof and the suspension system)
     
  10. RudyP

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    OK that hidden fuse looked pretty cruddy so I replaced it with a new 30 amp fuse and still no go...

    Also, there seems to be a fuse missing in the row of 4 here (purple star shows missing fuse, green oval shows the 30 amp fuse I just replaced)
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  11. Qavion

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    Remove that "purple star" fuse immediately! A fuse is only to be inserted there when you want to test the Teeves braking system.
     
  12. RudyP

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  13. RudyP

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    OK thanks - there isn't a fuse there and I did not put one in. Just wanted to make sure that it wasn't missing!
     
  14. Qavion

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    Sorry, misread your message.

    Dang... Time to break out the multimeter. Check for live battery volts at both sides of the 30 amp fuse (in-situ) to earth. Sometimes the wiring melts.

    How are you determining "no go". Fan operation only?
     
  15. RudyP

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    OK - going to check that now - stay tuned!

    I am determining no go by starting the car, fiddling with all the HVAC knobs and getting no fan action - anything else I should do?

    Also - thanks so much for all the help holding my hand!
     
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  16. Qavion

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    Do you hear any whirring from the dashboard when you change the air direction (foot, head, windscreen) with just the ignition on.

    By the way, what is the ambient temperature at the moment?
     
  17. RudyP

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    OK go easy on me because I'm an Aerospace engineer and I got a C on my only electrical engineering class... but I measured voltage at both sides of the fuse with the key turned to accessory position and got 12.3V at the outer terminal (passenger side) and 0.3V on the inner terminal (drivers side). Oh wait, US driver and passenger side so reversed for you...
     
  18. RudyP

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    I did not hear any whirring or any noises while changing air direction.

    Ambient temp is a comfortable 15 degC at the moment in the garage.
     
  19. Qavion

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    Then you shouldn't have too many problems with diagnosis :D

    Just in case wiring diagrams are required later...

    https://www.dropbox.com/t/kwFnBOwTUW93lnYC

    I don't understand why you're getting 0.3 volts at the other side of the fuse. You're not measuring across the fuse are you? Is your black multimeter probe on a good earth on the chassis?
     
  20. RudyP

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    Thanks for sending that but it is a bit scary looking!

    I did not measure across the fuse - red probe on fuse terminal and black probe on an exposed suspension bolt that seems like a decent ground/earth (but maybe isn't? Like I said, I barely passed EE)
     
  21. Qavion

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    Sorry, were you measuring the voltage with the fuse in-situ (using the exposed metal parts of the fuse)

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    Test each point separately.


    (EDIT: I see your new fuse doesn't have these cutouts. Maybe put your cruddy old fuse back in and test the voltage)
     
  22. Mitch Alsup

    Mitch Alsup F1 Veteran

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    Just a point of reference on My 355 pertinent to this::

    Driving home from a track event, the air-flow stopped through the air-box. I looked at the box and it was ice cold (frost evident). What had happened is that the motor that opens the vent had died while the A/C was working, and the fan was also working, just I was getting no air.
     
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  23. Rifledriver

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    Typically if the module goes bad the system has a default mode that goes to full heat, full fan and defroster ducts open. That is a TUV requirement.
     
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  24. RudyP

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    Ah OK - doing it this way with a fuse with cutouts, I get 12.78V on both cutouts with black probe at ground. This is with the key out, car fully turned off since I see from the wiring diagram now that this is a hot battery power connection.
     
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  25. Qavion

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    Thanks, Mitch.

    Rudy, can you hear your blower motor running at all?

    Because you have 12 volts on both sides of the fuse with the fuse in-situ, move on to the relay directly behind the fuse. Pull the relay and check the relay socket for voltage:

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    You should have live battery volts on either socket 30 or 87. Again use a good chassis earth. Let me know which pin is live.
    Then turn on the ignition and look for power on either socket 85 or 86 and let me know which one. If you have 12 volts, it means that fuse 25 power is getting to the relay.

    I'm not sure of the orientation of the relay holder on the car, so just use contact/socket 30 to get the orientation. Which contact is closest to the airbox?
     
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