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Clunk in the front right side

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Kevin Rev'n, Feb 8, 2016.

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  1. Ricambi America

    Ricambi America F1 World Champ
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    #26 Ricambi America, Feb 26, 2016
    I think Redline CV2 should be ok as a substitute, but welcome other input: Amazon.com: Red Line 80401 CV-2 Synthetic Grease - 14 oz. Jar: Automotive
     
  2. Kevin Rev'n

    Kevin Rev'n Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #27 Kevin Rev'n, Feb 26, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  3. Kevin Rev'n

    Kevin Rev'n Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #28 Kevin Rev'n, Feb 26, 2016
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  4. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
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    Tim Keseluk
    #29 2NA, Feb 26, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2016
    Looks like the adhesive broke down. No sign of any lubrication. A miserable design.

    Be sure to degrease the surfaces carefully and follow adhesive instructions religiously. That glue bond is all you've got.

    I lubed them with a little Mobil 1 synthetic grease. Certainly an improvement over what the factory provided.
     
  5. Kevin Rev'n

    Kevin Rev'n Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #30 Kevin Rev'n, Feb 26, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  6. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
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    #31 2NA, Feb 26, 2016
    It relies on the adhesive bond. What were they thinking?
     
  7. Kevin Rev'n

    Kevin Rev'n Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #32 Kevin Rev'n, Feb 29, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I went ahead and did both sides of my car but the left side (drivers side) was a different deal. That side had not yet failed so I had to do the extra work of pressing out the ball joint. It doesn't take much to get it out. 25mm 1/2" drive socket was the perfect size to help it out. Between that and a 1 3/8's" socket it is simple indeed. I had use of an arbor press but some threaded rod and good nuts would have worked easily I am sure or even a good bench vise. I had used a 1 5/16ths socket that was a smidge too small and ended up pressing the ball joint from the arm into the socket!
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  8. Kevin Rev'n

    Kevin Rev'n Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #33 Kevin Rev'n, Feb 29, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Liberating the circlip from the old seal is/was key. I don't know how I might have solved this without the tip in the tech manual! I laid it down on a flat surface and sliced against the embedded clip. With the circlip in the arm it provides a nice index for depth of insertion for the new ball joint.

    The rubber seals looked really fine for their age and I am sure they could have been re-used had I not ordered new from Ricambi. As for that matter the ball joints themselves were probably ok to re-use as well. Only the glue had failed that held them in the upper arm. For reference my car is 2003 with 13K on the clock. With all new parts and the confidence that the job was done right I am hopeful that I wont have to visit these again.
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  9. Kevin Rev'n

    Kevin Rev'n Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #34 Kevin Rev'n, Feb 29, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    What surprised me was how little "bonding medium" remained in the upper arm of the good side, no wonder they fail over time. I am curious if anyone who has done the job themselves has had a ball joint fail?

    One thing I wasn't prepared for was the squeeze out of the extra Hysol I applied to both parts. I am pretty sure the factory workers never had to deal with squeeze out because it looks like they used a lot less material! Maybe that is why they fail! Having some wooden stick Q tips helped a lot to clean that up. The next day after they set up I still had some residue to clean up. some dental tools and a curvy exacto removed the amount I missed.

    In hindsight there is probably a savvy mechanic trick to make this easier. Maybe a bead of Vasoline around the ball joint sphere? Anyone have a trick to share for the next guy? If my job was to apply the adhesive everyday I am sure I would have used a lot less but I wanted to be sure I got it right. After insertion I rotated the bearing in place to even out the material.
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  10. Kevin Rev'n

    Kevin Rev'n Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #35 Kevin Rev'n, Feb 29, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    With a circlip installed in the slot on the upper side of arm I pushed the new ball joints (by hand no tools needed) into place and let them set up for a day. As I mentioned I did some clean up of the joint the next day and then set them aside until the "special grease" gets here from Amazon so I can finish the job. I shake my head at the need for special grease but the one that Daniel mentioned from Redline was the only thing I could find for a Tutela Z2 equivalent.

    As easy as this job is I am pretty sure that the dealer could have done it without too much horsey tax but then I wouldn't have been able to do those extra things that bring me joy from my Ferrari Stewardship...like detailing the wheel wells, and taking a tooth brush to my beautiful red calipers! ...and I can apply a good heavy coat of wax to all sides of my 100% detailed front wheels! Front pads look good check! Cant wait to get back on the road this weekend!
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  11. Keith360

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    #36 Keith360, Mar 1, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2016
    Kevin, how many miles on the car at the beginning of the clunking?

    Good job on the straight forward replacement, thanks for sharing.
     
  12. Kevin Rev'n

    Kevin Rev'n Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #37 Kevin Rev'n, Mar 1, 2016
    I don't have my exact odometer reading (~13K miles) but the first clunk was when I entered my driveway before parking it until I repaired it. I wouldn't drive a Ferrari with a clunk brother! I had a little wandering on the freeway at moderate speed a couple of minutes prior. Felt like driving a non-aerodynamic car in a heavy side wind.
     
  13. Kevin Rev'n

    Kevin Rev'n Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #38 Kevin Rev'n, Mar 7, 2016
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