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Clutch Repair - removing the bell housing

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by 85cab, Aug 11, 2015.

  1. 85cab

    85cab Rookie

    Jun 30, 2015
    12
    Ottawa, Canada
    Hello everyone,

    I am trying to remove the bell housing on my '85 Mondial QV (Euro version).

    I have successfully removed the gear cover and the middle and lower gears. I have also removed the rings, spacer and bearing from the lower gear.

    I think I am now only one small step away from being able to take off the bell housing.

    The problem is, I can't seem to remove the pin that holds the clutch control lever to the push rod fork. I have removed the cotter pin, have applied "Release-All", but I'm having no success.
    I can rotate the pin but cannot get it to slide out.

    Is there a trick to this?

    Thank you.
     
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  3. RichardAguinsky

    RichardAguinsky Formula Junior

    Nov 12, 2007
    477
    Palo Alto, Californi
    Full Name:
    Richard Aguinsky
    The pin is held only by the cotter pin. The pin should slide out.

    The push rod has a bushing, which is a pain to put the pin back in. You'll know what I mean when you put it back together.

    Maybe the pin is rusted to the bushing and it is the actual bushing that is rotating and not the pin?
     
  4. Bell Bloke

    Bell Bloke Formula 3

    Dec 6, 2012
    1,839
    UK
    #3 Bell Bloke, Aug 12, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2015
    Hi there, if you go to the Mondial do it yourself thread 4th down from the top of this page, in there you will find Bell Blokes resource thread, there is a detailed clutch replace video in there.
    Ps. The YouTube account name is 'thehelidoctor' lots of Ferrari Mondial work videos in there.
     
  5. 85cab

    85cab Rookie

    Jun 30, 2015
    12
    Ottawa, Canada
    Thank you. I have removed the cotter pin, but I didn't think about the possibility that the pin may be rusted to the bushing - though I'm not sure how that changes my approach to removing the pin.

    I have looked through the Helidoctor's videos and a few other descriptions related to clutch repair. While most of them mention the necessity of removing anything attached to the bell housing before removal, I haven't found one yet that details what exactly should be removed or how.

    I will check out Bell Blokes resource thread, in case there is something there that may help out.

    I'm very reluctant to apply heat to the pin given all the other wires/tubes in near vicinity.
     
  6. PV Dirk

    PV Dirk F1 Veteran

    Jul 26, 2009
    5,401
    Ahwatukee, AZ
    #5 PV Dirk, Aug 12, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    It was a terrible pain to reinstall mine. I don't remember pulling it apart. I think part of the challenge is that there is some tension between the two. Maybe have someone depress the clutch a bit so you can get a feel for the action and see where any tension might be at that joint so you might be able to minimize it. Then maybe with a pair of slidelock pliers you can get to both sides and try to get it out, mimicking the idea of a puller or press. Wrap something around the jaws of the pliers so you don't scar anything. I doubt these pictures will be of any help but I'm home and the engine is out of the car so I thought it couldn't hurt.
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  8. 85cab

    85cab Rookie

    Jun 30, 2015
    12
    Ottawa, Canada
    Yes PV Dirk, that's precisely where I'm having issues. It seems that the pin is well and truly stuck to the ball joint/bushing in the lever. The pin and bushing rotate quite merrily together, but will not budge apart.

    I did have someone release the tension by pressing lightly on the clutch pedal, but to no avail. I've even tried using a metal C-clamp placed directly on the pin on the cotter pin side and placed over a couple of large diameter washers on the head side, with no luck.

    I think the only thing left to do is try and cut through the pin on both side between the pushrod and the lever, trying hard not to mark up anything but the pin (and maybe the bushing).... after I first source new ones!
     
  9. srephwed

    srephwed F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Apr 29, 2012
    4,385
    street,md
    Full Name:
    fred brown
    P-B Blaster!!!
     
  10. RichardAguinsky

    RichardAguinsky Formula Junior

    Nov 12, 2007
    477
    Palo Alto, Californi
    Full Name:
    Richard Aguinsky
    If you cut off the ends, the rusted part of the pin will still be stuck in the middle and you will have no extra leverage to get it out.

    May I suggest removing the push rod from the slave cylinder and leave it hanging on the clutch arm. Use the C-clamp on the slave cylinder so the piston does not pop loose. You want to avoid bleeding, it is more painful than removing that pin.

    Once the bell housing is on the bench, you can use a vise to apply more pressure on the pin.
     
  11. bencollins

    bencollins Karting

    May 30, 2015
    212
    Whaplode, Lincs, UK
    Full Name:
    Ben Collins
    Suggest you get a clamp of some kind, and on the "head" side of the pin add a ring (or nut) that goes over the head but still sits on the fork. Then when you screw up the clamp, all the force is applied to the "dowel" end of the pin, thus pushing it out. If it stops halfway you canadd a ball bearing to the mix to continue pushing the dowel end. Ill draw a piccy if that makes no sense.
     
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  13. deeprivergarage

    deeprivergarage Formula Junior
    Rossa Subscribed Owner

    Oct 3, 2009
    560
    S of Fort Worth
    Full Name:
    Jerry
    I think I had to put a Cresent wrench on the shaft end of the lever and push the lever up or down to take the pressure off of the pin. The pin may also have a bit of a groove worn into it that is making it difficult to slide the pin out of the push rod. There isn't much room to work so it is a challenge for sure.

    Good luck,
    Jerry
     
  14. 85cab

    85cab Rookie

    Jun 30, 2015
    12
    Ottawa, Canada
    Ben - I did try exactly what you suggested, using two large diameter washers. I gained extra leverage by using a wrench over the end of the screw handle on the c-clamp .... and bent handle!

    Richard - is removing the push rod fairly straightforward and does reinstalling pose any difficulties?
     
  15. RichardAguinsky

    RichardAguinsky Formula Junior

    Nov 12, 2007
    477
    Palo Alto, Californi
    Full Name:
    Richard Aguinsky

    The push rod is resting on the piston. The boot holds the rod in place when not installed

    Pull the boot down. You will see the piston and the rod. If you pull down on the arm, the rod should come out. Not sure how much travel is required to clear the rod from the cavity in the piston

    Or, loosen the slave cylinder for more room

    My main concern is if that piston pops loose. You'll have to deal with a brake fluid spill plus putting the piston back in plus bleeding

    Though per the trouble you are going through removing that pin in the in the car, I would try to dislodge the push rod next










    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  16. 85cab

    85cab Rookie

    Jun 30, 2015
    12
    Ottawa, Canada
    ok - thank you. I think I will give that a try tomorrow and try to fix the piston in place.
     
  17. bencollins

    bencollins Karting

    May 30, 2015
    212
    Whaplode, Lincs, UK
    Full Name:
    Ben Collins
    if you are sure there is no petrol vapours anyweher you could try heat too. those portable mini soldering irons are good for local heating on tiny parts, then some more loosening oil. Good luck, sounds like you are making progress with some of these methods.
     
  18. 85cab

    85cab Rookie

    Jun 30, 2015
    12
    Ottawa, Canada
    #15 85cab, Aug 16, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Well, in the end I gave up trying to remove the pin and instead, unbolted the slave cylinder. Because mine had the interior circle, there was no concern with the piston falling out. With the push rod finally free, removing the bell housing went smoothly.
    The clutch plate is well below the wear limit and the pressure plate is quite rusty. Also, the bell housing and the part behind the flywheel are covered with an impressive layer of black gunk, which will take a bit of cleaning.
    In addition to needing a new clutch plate and pressure plate, I also think I will need a new flywheel given the striations I can see.
    I've included a few pics of the various parts, along with a shot of the drained gear oil.
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  19. srephwed

    srephwed F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Apr 29, 2012
    4,385
    street,md
    Full Name:
    fred brown
    Don't give up on your flywheel. In the hands of a competent machine shop it becomes a light weight flywheel. Small heat cracks are never an issue. Cast iron gets hot and cracks. now big gapping cracks are a horse of a different color. I got my clutch kit from AW Italian. Complete kit with bearings and o rings for around 600 dollars. Hope this helps.
     
  20. Bell Bloke

    Bell Bloke Formula 3

    Dec 6, 2012
    1,839
    UK
    Flywheel looks fine, see my video on how I cleaned mine up and saw the little cracks go.
    Regards Bell
     

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