Clutch slip on my new 360

A. A new clutch will show 0-1%. Whoever told you otherwise is wrong.

B. It is either set up wrong, has an early software package and cannot set itself correctly or they did a bad job in replacing it.



Correction

It is an 01 Spider. It should have a really good software package from the factory.

 

Definitely not normal.........you shouldnt feel clutch slip at takeoff either.......salesman is wrong.

 

Ferrari recommends cam belt changes every 3 years regardless of mileage, so the prior owner at least seems like he took care of the car according to book. Why do you worry about it being a track car? Does it look like there's a lot of wear and tear for its low mileage? Most likely the prior owner simply did not drive his car much. A lot of city, stop and go traffic I understand will accelerate wear on an F1 clutch, as it doesn't fully engage until after the first 10 feet from every stop.

 

Wrong. 30,000 miles or three years, whichever come first.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I dont know if this is correct but I read on a old post that if you drive your F1 in reverse up to hill it wears the clutch very fast. Like I said, It was just a post.

 

+1000

I was at the local F store a few weeks back looking at 3 458s they were about to deliver and asked the tech about the 430 clutches and the F1 system. He said the only time they had seen a problem was one lady in a Maser GT who kept burning clutches in 5K mile intervals. After her second time back they got out of her that she backs out of her steep driveway. She hasn't been back since they told her to stop doing that.

 

I can tell you from personal experience with my 2001 360F1, the clutch engages much, much lower than 3000 rpm. The clutch engages around 1300 rpm with about 50% release and full engaged above that point. But the clutch will also slip if you over rev before it full engages, as it would with any regular 3 pedal car.

It doesn't sound like you clutch is set up correctly

 

You are correct. Inartful wording. What I meant was that they say to change it at 3 years even if you have only a few miles on it.

 

Whoever did the service ask them what the PIS on the SD2 was - it sounds like that is a possibility - should be about 5 mm

As to the missing fobs there's lots of ways round it covered in many many threads here

 

It goes without saying that Rifledriver is right.

A slipshod clutch installation, without adhering to proper procedure, probably accounts for the 15% wear showing at only 500 miles.

The slippery take-offs are no doubt caused by the PIS being set in the high fives (probably 5.7/5.8 or maybe higher) when it could be down in the high fours for a tighter performance.

Do you have the paperwork showing the 93% before clutch replacement, and do you know, from the worksheet on the clutch work, where the PIS reading is right now?

 

For your guide, I live in central London and have tracked my 360 - it is also a 2000, so with the earlier software. I had access to an SD2 machine on Saturday - the clutch is showing 15% wear in 8,000 miles since the last clutch change.

 

Now I think you're hitting the nail on the head.

93% wear showing at 6500 mls sounds to me like it was always a slipping problem, and this may be contributing to the alarming 15% now showing at only 500 mls, but I'm not entirely convinced of this, and would suspect that part of that figure is down to the wear indicator parameters not being properly setup at the clutch change.

Post the current Point of Inititial Slippage figure and no doubt Brian will give the definitive answer.

 

FWIW: I do not have the F1 in mine (I have the manual) but remembering a posted advise: The SPORT mode is the better one to use in the F1 system. Have you tried that mode?

 

Not to hijack this thread, but does backing up a grade in a 6 spd manual present the same clutch wear problem or is that only in F1s because they don't fully engage? That said, I find that I need to slip the clutch some when backing up a grade to prevent stalling. So maybe I've talked myself into the same boat anyway. Thoughts?

 

Only if they like replacing clutches. Other than slippery surfaces why would you do that?

You have it correct.

 

Brian,
Not hijack the thread but do you have an opinion on those guys that offer to reflash an early TCU to the latest software? I've got a 99 and would dearly like to find either a later TCU from a salvage car or get mine reflashed, or take the big buck route and get a new TCU from Ricambi.

Thanks in advance.

 

+1
I also own a 99. Can some one tell me what is the difference between the CS TCU vs a late 2002+ TCU? Sice this thread never got any solid results or answers; http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104503&highlight=tcu&page=2

Sorry for hijacking this thread!!!

 

Make sure to ask if the WHOLE clutch was replaced. Sometimes guys do a cheap clutch replace and do not replace all parts. I had that happen on my 2001 Spider I bought. Said to have new clutch. Theyreplaced everything but the throwout bearing and it slipped as soon as I got it. SO PISSED and amazed that a Ferrari dealer would not do a proper new clutch. Maybe this is the same thing. Also make sure to check your car has the new software works much better once you find a fix

 

That was not a good repair.


Take it to someone else. They have no idea what they are doing.