Hey everyone, I've got a 73 246 gts that when it gets warm/hot after about 45 minutes of driving or so the clutch no longer allows the car to shift normally. At a stand still, reverse will grind like crazy and on some occasions will not allow the car to shift into ANY gear. The clutch mechanicals were replaced less that 500 miles ago. The cable is new and the free play appeared to be correct. All the pivot points have been checked and lubed properly and appear to be in excellent working order with no slop. I took 99% of the free play out of the pedal and while it seems to have 90% solved the problem I hate the idea of almost zero free play. Has anyone else experienced this problem and solved it? Thanks all.
Here's a thread That helped me. Go to post #12 for an example. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/206-246/218044-clutch-adjustment-time-ok.html Apparently the new cable housings are too long. You need to shim the end(s) of the cable housing. So, under the bonnet, space out the housing with washers or fabricate a spacer. Leave enough of the threads exposed for the nut to attach properly. I had to do the same thing at the engine end, but it is more difficult. After that you should be able to adjust the clutch as normal.
Also note post #14 in that thread. The overcenter spring has to be released or you can't move the sheath by hand to sense when the play has been taken out
If after you set up the clutch cable/over-center spring adjustment and you have very little free-play and the clutch is still not disengaging, then you have a problem with the clutch itself: Possible defective pressure plate or incorrect assembly of the clutch/pressure plate. If you end up taking it apart, check the height of the fingers on the pressure plate. The should all be at the same height, if not there is a problem with the pressure plate.
Thanks Brian. Your old shop just did the work so hopefully it was installed correctly. I'm hoping the cable shim idea does the trick
I have seen pressure plates that were bad from new. Checking that the finger heights where the throw-out bearing contacts the pressure plate is even is critical in making sure that it will release properly. It is also important to get the setup of the release lever, rod lengths and over-center spring adjustment correct when setting up the clutch. The only new cables that you can buy are not the same exact length as the original (inner cable is too long in relationship to the outer) so it is necessary to fabricate spacers for the outer housing in order to get enough pull on the inner cable. I sometimes have to shorten the inner cable and run the clevises all the way down on the threaded ends. I would not worry too much about not enough free-play. It is more important that the clutch releases fully. Why did you not do the work yourself? You are a better mechanic than anyone that is now at that shop. Get the shop manual and do it yourself. The only thing is that you need some special tools in order to remove the ring nuts.
