Completely Dead Battery?

I would call the dealer and have them come out to you. My guess is yes, the battery is dead. Possibly has bad cells.

 

The included tender most likely isn't strong enough to really charge it. I *think* its meant to be more of a maintainer. If you can get access to the battery you can try to jump it, but I think the best bet would be one of the portable jump starters- not going to another car- I think you can get a surge from going between cars whereas the portable jumper shouldn't risk a surge.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1538175687&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=portable+jump+starter&psc=1

Also be extra careful with the windows on your car- when you give the door handle a little tug, the window normally goes down, clearing the weather sealing. If the battery is dead then this won't happen. Thus, you would have to open the door extremely slowly and carefully and you cannot close the door until you get enough power so the window goes down.

If you can get the car started, you should take it for a drive for like 40-60 minutes and do not turn it off. Bring it home and then see if you can turn it off and if it will start again.

No matter what I think you are likely going to want a new battery. I would also suggest replacing the OEM tender with a CTek 7002. It has better conditioning modes and brown out protection and also it can output more amps when needed. You can get an attachment to connect to Ferrari on eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ferrari-CTEK-MUS-7002-Battery-Charger-Adapter-360-F430-458-California-599-612/192365458849?hash=item2cc9dff5a1:g:WasAAOSwBkRaDI60

The CTek brought a dead battery I had in my 599 back to life and I got several more years use out of it! Ever since I have been a believer in these, as they say, seeing is believing.

 

^^^What he said !!!

Going by my 575 when I was leaving it 2 weeks at a time, I used my daily 3 series on a few occassions for a jump start.

BUT on one occassion when the 3 series couldn't turn it over, I called out the AA (UK recovery), where I got a start from their mobile starter - on turning over, there were a couple of blue lightning flashes on the dash which gave me a heart attack. Luckily it seemed that I hadn't fried the car, but that heart in mouth moment led me to get a ctek. And I never got a jump start again, despite doing so previously.

On a high value car such as yours, would suggest prudence - in my experience the ctek is a Godsend.

Best,
Sammy

 

To get the car to roll with a dead battery you have to get the transmission out of park lock and disengage the electronic parking brakes. There are two special tools in the trunk to do this and the procedures are outlined in the owners manual. It is not the easiest thing to do. Much easier to put a good battery charger on the battery to see if you can get it to come back to life, even if it is just enough to start the car to move it. As long as you jump the car with a good jumper battery pack that is only 12V and not a charger/booster that can cause a voltage spike you will not damage any electronic components in the car.

 

The electronics work in a very small voltage window. If you drop to less than 11.5 volts the car may completely die or just show the dash, radio, and other low current applications. Don't be fooled. If it won't start the car it's not that the battery is "dead". It's too dead to make the most current needy stuff to work. And the electronics are designed to protect the energy management system from a possible problem from low voltage starting (for example, fouling the plugs, excess fuel in the cylinders, etc). It might also be smog related (triggering a Check Engine light).

Bottom line, if the battery does not have enough current capacity, it won't even turn over the engine or allow the windows to move.

Sounds to me like you need a new battery. My suggestion is not to fumble with it and just have it replaced.

Jumping it does have its dangers. A voltage spike can be disastrous. Unless you are really stuck somewhere I suggest you have it replaced and not jump it.

Batteries only last about 3 to 4 years normally, depending on how you use them. If you use a battery everyday actually it lasts longer. Voltage drops cause the plates inside the battery to corrode, making it more difficult to make electricity. This is the natural function of all Lead Acid batteries.

 

From your photo, the negative terminal is "B" NOT "A". "A" in your photo is the positive terminal, so you had the connections reversed.

 

What about that "+" sign marked on the battery next to "B?"

 

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I see a negative sign, clearly B is a negative cable and A is a positive cable, but regardless, all the OP needs to do is see where those cables go.

 

Did the car sit for 2 weeks without being connected to a charger?

There are 5 different amps listed...Which one works? It says for gas engines up to 6.0L...I assume it should work for 6.2L, right?

 

Your connections and method is fine. I think you should have done the ECU reset procedure before attempting to crank - its in the manual. That may be why your windows are not functional with +12V and 600 amp battery attached. I'd check the original battery connections first (you may have the battery NEG terminal quick release lug loose - its way in the back under the firewall at the end of the NEG cable. If after reset procedure and all good connections and still no crank then yank the battery and either have it tested/charged or replaced. An Interstate or Advance Auto equivalent will run about $140 with coupon and core. Not fun to do the install but sounds like you have the correct disposition so go for it. Will save you $600 perhaps. The 12 cylinders need the 900 amp rated battery. Good luck.

 

With the red top, I guess you have the oem battery. Do you know when it was last replaced, if it was ever replaced?

Does anyone know if any instruments one can buy to reliably check battery condition? That might be an easier and more cost-effective option than just preemptively replacing what might be a perfectly good battery every 2-3 years.

 

If it were me an I had an alternative to just replace the battery, I would not jump it. If there was no chance for that, then jump it. But there are risks. And don't be surprised if you get some kind of check lights or warnings afterwards.

I jumped my Maserati all the time for this reason -- never a problem. But when you do it you have to accept there is some risk. IMO, always ask the dealer their opinion.

 

I guess the car will still go into gear with the rear hatch open. Let's say you need to get gas to get to the dealer but the fuel door wouldn't open unless you stop the engine...is there a way to open the fuel door with the engine running?