430 Conv top switch

Can still be easy peasy. Buy a 6-wire cord instead of 4
As a matter of fact I sourced the same wires & colours 5 years ago to do the same thing.
Never got around to doing it. Maybe now a good time.

It allows you to keep an eye on the roof during open/close to ensure everything is aligned and to stop immediately if not right.

There are places that sells wires any gauge or colour

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Look again guys, I ONLY bought 4 wires too; three connections using the same colour.
Sub red for the orange and white for grey. Will still work.

 

You only need 4 wires. An orange jumper wire is looped from pin 3 to 5.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

You can even see the loop in your photo.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Thank you Ian.
Nothing better than a nice illustration

 

What a great idea.

I am technically inept so happy to pay somebody to it local to Weybridge, Surrey

A way to di it remotely without the key in the ignition and not flattening the battery would be even better.

 

Can you find small male spade connectors to plug into the original white plug?

You need to put a jumper on the switch, too, with, say a small loop of red wire. It looks like you already stuck a single red wire into the blue female spade. You should have put two wires into the same female spade.

 

Yeah I would think using some spades should make this straightforward. I’m not sure what the voltage is on the circuit tho - if it’s too long couldn’t the resistance build up and cause it to not work? Curious what you find out - I have also had this thought for my 360. I thought a wireless relay so I could do it with a remote but haven’t gotten around to doing it. Basic wiring would be pretty similar.

 

The switch must not handle the load but maybe controls a relay?

Seems the switch is a DPDT, and the jumper is for the reverse direction

Ian, can you check the circuit to check if there is a relay?

 

No relay. It's a direct input into the Roof ECU (via a few connectors). The switch is provided with 12 volts from the ignition (via the smaller roof fuse). I don't think too many spade connectors will be an issue.

 

Didn't you already have the female blue (insulated) spade connectors for the switch?

Image Unavailable, Please Login

(Jumper wire added to photo)

All you need now are male spades for the white plug (car harness).

 

Sorry, I just realised what you are trying to do... i.e. put two switches in parallel. This definitely won't work. If you activate (only) one switch, this will short out the wiring.

e.g. (see rough diagram below) If you push the open roof switch on the remote (pins 2 and 5 will contact). This will put 12 volts on the grey/green wire and on pin 2 of the console switch (which hasn't been pushed). Contact 2 on the console switch is currently directly connected with pin 4 (earth!). Fuse blown.

Image Unavailable, Please Login
To confirm that my switch internal wiring is correct, check to see if there is normally continuity between pins 2 and 4 and between pins 4 and 1 on the switch with the wiring disconnected. This is with the switch NOT pushed. Sometimes the wiring diagrams in the manuals don't always correspond to the real car.

 

I just sent Lorenzo a drawing, Ian

He's going to try w/o using a jumper on 2nd switch

I think that is causing his fuse to blow

 

Thanks, Greg. I don't think that will work, though.

I didn't realise Lorenzo was using two switches in parallel. If you activate one switch, it will put power directly to earth on the other (unpushed switch).

e.g. The "open" roof switch on the remote switch puts 12 volts power on the grey/green wire (when pushed), which puts power on pin 2 of the console switch. If the console switch is unpushed, the power is shorted directly to pin 4 (earth)!

Image Unavailable, Please Login
However, as I mentioned to Lorenzo, the Ferrari wiring diagrams don't always match the real car. I've asked him to check for continuity between pins 2 and 4 with the switch unpushed. Also pins 4 and 1.

 

It's possible but first we have to be sure that Lorenzo has the wires pin to pin.

I told him to forget the wire colors but just to make sure the same color wire goes to each pin on the two switches

I am trying to figure out what the jumper does

 

Maybe a diode on that wire would prevent the power from going back to the console switch, Ian, if that is in fact what is happeneing

If I had more time right now I would emulate on my car what Lorenzo has been doing to proof the concept

 

Unfortunately, as the remote and console switches are pigtailed at the console switch, it's not possible to squeeze any diodes in there (at least not without a lot of rewiring and cutting into OEM wiring).

I think this is how you would do it by cutting into the OEM wiring:

Image Unavailable, Please Login
This is assuming that the internals of the OEM switches are as shown.

 

Are you sure the pin 1 & 2 are NC to gnd 4? Would be a hell of a lot easier if they were floating

Totally strange that they are sourcing through the switches rather than sinking. But perhaps there are relays somewhere else doing the actual work.

 

No, I'm not sure. The F355 WSM diagrams show the same kind of switch:

Image Unavailable, Please Login
At least one person reported, after checking his F355 switch, that there was no NC to gnd.

That's why I asked Lorenzo to check this:

(switches not pushed).

If the Ferrari diagrams are not correct, I can't explain Lorenzo's blown fuse (unless some wires accidentally touched each other)