Convertible Top Mechanism

I discovered a snapped short connection tang. It will be easy to weld, but I need advice concerning the double flat head fasteners. I need to detach an arm.

The double flat head (screw head) is proving very difficult to unscrew.

Can someone give me advice about taking the fastener out. I don’t want to break something! SG


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The top is original and in surprisingly nice condition. The fasteners are slotted on both sides. My gut says they are either press fitted or half-turn slip fitted and would have to be drilled out. They are nearly impossible to turn. FChat participants: do I need to drill it out? SG


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… or try to neatly cut the head off?


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Thanks!


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It took the sum of about 1.5 hours over two days to keep backing this fastener apart due to slots absolutely useless, tiny available edge of fastener heads, and indirect angles of attack.

Finally backed apart. Old lock-tight or similar on the threads because nobody wants the convertible top to weaken. I get it! … and I got it apart. Pictures below.

In order to have the broken tang welded I have three more of these fasteners to remove - but they are in the open and can be addressed directly. The first was obscured by an arm of the frame.

I will first try the slots - then I will heat up a fastener - now that I know what kind of fastener I’m dealing with and why it is difficult. Of course I will melt the small plastic spacer/washers. And I will not ignite the canvas top. Thanks to all. SG


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After (above) learning what kind of fastener I was dealing with, it only took twenty minutes to get the remaining two fasteners apart.

Do not heat the canvas at all. Find a way to unlatch the canvas top and discover ways to isolate the fastener you want to remove from the canvas. Heat shield(s) are imperative.

In my case, I simply rocked back the top which helped get the fastener into a safe and accessible position, then made damn sure nothing got warm except the target fastener.

Heat gun (Makita set on “3-4” range heat) for 50 seconds. Clip a long nose smaller vice grip on slight protrusion of slotted fastener head. Use a medium slotted screwdriver on opposite slotted side of head. Hold screwdriver firmly still and use locked vice grip to Gently/Firmly try to unscrew slowly. Vice grip may unclip and fall twice or so. If not slowly unscrewing add another 50 seconds of heat.

My second heating got things moving.

Removed last fastener on broken tang arm and withdrew the broken arm.

Local welder reattached the broken tang for $20.

Reassembly next. Will probably use a little dab of something to help endure some mild “lock” hold on the threads. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login


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This is an original top. The fasteners have slotted heads on both heads; one side is male which mates. Once tight and fully engaged in the arm the fastener does not bind to the arm - it is fitted to allow arm movement. These fasteners are pivot points which allow arm slippage as we raise and lower the convertible top.


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Update: Finished!

I Put two DROPS on each moving joint/pivot of the top. That really helped smooth-out the up/down movement some. What is necessary is a patient, focused, careful orchestration dance - NOT a haphazard, forced cas-tration.

Same with connecting the top’s front pin/latch to the windshield metal frame. Don’t force it. Search canvas top in FChat to better understand warm (clean) floor mop wonders, and sun warming tricks. Don’t force it!



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