Hi, Is there a write-up on converting to R134a on the 328 somewhere? Where do you get the O-rings? Thanks in advance. /td
Sure, just PM Dr. Tommy Cosgrove here on the boards. He'll point you where you want to go on this. Andrew
No kidding... I'll point you straight back to R12. 134 is NOT the solution. You will not be happy. It is best to spent the extra on the R12 and max out the already "fair" system that we have in these things. I speak from FIRST hand experience on 3 different cars
Alright! I have done some reading here and another car list, and decide to recharge with the R12 instead... Thanks. /td
That's the right decision It's really cheaper in the long run too. Once you put in the 134 and didn't like it (and I would bet big $ you wouldn't) you would have had to get the ENTIRE system removed and flushed before the R12 went back in. You cannot simply vacuum it for 30 min. The oils do not like each other... Good luck
I converted a non-F car to R134. To comply legally, it also requires changing fittings so that future owners know that R134 is in the system, as well as adding labels. To work properly, you need to change the expansion valve, flush the entire system to remove R12 oil, pull a big-time vacuum for 30+ minutes, add the proper amount of R134 oil, then recharge with R134 using with a set of gauges which fit the new fittings. That's all. Unfortunately few shops mess with R12 anymore because of the Fed legislation requires standalone R12 recovery equipment and fewer older cars willing to fix their ac to pay the equip costs. But if you can find a willing shop you will be ahead of the game. Yes even with a price differential of $100/pound but you only add half to one pound, max 2 1/2 on complete charge and it works so much better on a system designed for R12. And one always stands danger of an R12 hose blowing under R134. R134 is great on a complete R134 system which includes not just compressor but larger evaporator and condenser too. Don't know what R12 cost now but my last #30 bottle was $300, the price went to $900 and back to $600. That was a few years back.
I converted mine to 134a and am quite happy...46-48 at the vent while moving. Having said that, if you don't want to convert, just use freeze-12. It is a drop-in replacement, 12 bucks a can at most NAPA stores and works as well as 134a but not as well as r-12. The nay-sayers will tell you that freeze 12 is a blend of gasses and leaks out at different rates ad-nauseum, but I will tell you that a good friend just serviced his 88 328 and it works as well or slightly better than my 87 328. Most systems will "weep" 1/8 to 1/4 lbs per year due to lack of use.
R12 is just not that expensive. We use it every single day. A 30# can is about $600 so that comes to $20 per lb. It is true that we have to jump through some hoops to use it so it gets marked up more than R134a but it is the best to use hands down. It works better and charges easier than anything out there. I have tried Freeze 12 and a few others out there and I am sorry it is just not as good. It is snake oil. We work hard to provide the best finished product possible and anything but R12 just does not fit in that equation.
Totally agree on staying with the R12. Went with the conversion about three years ago and it was cr@p. New fitting etc. etc.....thought it was a 'wise' move....changed it all back to 'normal/stock' and VERY happy... r
