Passenger side after...
As far as fans go, I hear tale that pullers are more efficient that pushers. Anyone have the straight poop?
I bought an inexpensive blaster from Harborfreight to hook up to my old Craftsman compressor. While not perfect, it gets me by.
I bought my blaster many years ago, one of those bucket types with the hose at the very bottom, I use a ceramic nozzle as I found those last 50 times longer than the metal nozzles. A word of advice: if you do alot of blasting, get a bigger compressor, minimum 50 gallons. Mine is 80 with an 8HP motor, 220VAC, single stage. 2 stages are too fricking expensive but if you did this for a living, then I'd go for a two stage. More gallon size is essential when working with blasters which are CFM crazy. Very hard on a compressor. 9.5 CFM at 100 PSI minimum for blasting IMO. I will have alot more pics of my setup at home and the ponycar in the future. I didn't remove my spare time bucket like you did, got scared looking for a seam on the bucket and I couldn't find one. GT4's should be similar to the GTS's one would think. Only difference I see is that your battery location is far different from mine. GT4's stick the battery on the passenger side right behind the headlamp bucket. The harder you corner, the more likelihood of battery acid oozing onto the body/chassis. Supposedly, POR-15 is battery acid proof. The other PITA when blasting is the fricking sand all over the place, I mean the stuff gets EVERYWHERE, you do your best to lay thick plastic sheeting to protect the paint and keep the sand localized, then I used my kirby to vacuum up the fine sand particles from the nooks and crannys.
Cool....I see that most everything is then painted/refinished after blasting - which I'm assuming is done after the item is removed/disassembled from the car. What black substance is applied/sprayed? Do you use primer first, or just wash and clean the parts once bead-blasted? With sand as the blasting medium, I'm guessing this cleanup is a real chore....
Yes parts were removed and then put in the blast chamber, unless they were too big, like the chassis. In which case I used a portable blaster, and switched from a more expensive glass bead, to an industrial sand for outdoor use. Before blasting, the parts are cleaned with your choice of cleaning agent, and then moved to blasting. After blasting I use a total prep de-greaser and contaminate remover, followed by a wash of clean water. After the parts are dry then I prime them, then paint them, and in some places even applied undercoating. IMHO it is best to powder coat the parts for a long lasting durable finish. But my schedule and my local powder coaters schedule didn't jive, so I just painted the parts myself. As far as paint goes, everyone has their favorite brands and colors, and some have a preference on semi, flat or gloss... For the chassis rather than using flat black, I decided to use a Semi-Flat black which has just a touch more sheen than flat, and besides, in 20 years it will be flat too. and for the A-arms I used gloss black. Here are the colors I used. Krylon RTA 9203 Semi-Flat Black Krylon TRA 9202 Gloss Black.
With the front end almost finished, I have been looking into the interior of the 308. Carpet and light weight seats. Any manufactures to avoid?
Not that I am aware of, sounds like you are going after market seats? I hope not, but it is your baby, not mine. I just had mine reupholerstered last month, both front and rear seats, door panels and headrests all done in new tan leather. Carpets still original and solid.
I had the seats and door skins done a couple of years ago, but I guess my ass is a little hard on the seats, so rather than me tearing up a perfectly good seat, I thought I would save the finish on my original seats, and let my butt tear up the racing seats. The carpet is still original in the car and is starting to look rather tacky. and as of a couple hours ago, I went ahead and ordered carpet from GAHH.
You shouldn't have said door skins The driver side had to have the bottom 6 inches cut out with a replacement skin from superformance for the amazing price of 150 bucks for the skin. I understand your replacing the seats now, just keep the originals. There is nothing like OEM Italian leather seats IMO.
.............. drool............. cant wait for mine to get delivered...... in like 200 years it may look as nice as yours!!!
