Is this the famous water hose from back to front? If so, there are 2 and where is the other one? Thanks in advance Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yup that’s the spigot . Bet it’s rotten under that hose . https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/heater-hose-spigot.686582/ Goes fwds as you say to heater box at the front scuttle and if I recal re enters with special T pieced pipe very close to the bottom rad hose under the spare wheels tub . Water returns with the main return rad hose .
There are 4 rubber hoses running front to rear in the sills. Two on the left side (coolant hose to heater, and vacuum hose to brake booster). Two on the right side (both are for air conditioning).
Is work for next week, for the time being i have not enough jerry cans to collect the antifreeze, I will only let off the antifreeze to just below the level of the spigot. Where is the best drainpoint to do this? Up to this point there has been no dripping at the connection and hope the spigot is fine/stil usable.
Underneath the front of the car the heater hose tee's into the radiator pipe. You will need to remove the front inspection plate to access this tee. Remove the heater pipe at this point. This will drain most of the fluid from the cooling system. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Do yourself a favor and buy one of these. https://clarkandclarkinc.com/catalog/detail/front-coolant-drain-valve-kit-for-308328 You have to run the hose anyway so might as well make life easier for your to service the coolant later. To completely get all of the coolant you'll need to drain the block as well. I don't know if you feel that's necessary or not... depends on if your coolant has been flushed. If it was me (and it was just a few months ago) I would replace every single rubber piece in that system (including the ones under the front hood), remove the metal coolant pipes and clean them and inspect for any damage and completely flush the coolant since it's probably got lots of sediment in it from the old decaying hoses. For the block there is another drain valve on the rear just near the exhaust. If yours has never been opened it might be impossible to open it... mine was and you'll have to replace that as well. Fortunately for me when the car's valves were being done and the head work was being done the shop did that piece of work for me.
@Freddie328, Strange my 328 - 1986 Europe version is not like that there is a water tube left and right ( no T on both of them) not the 2 at the same side but there is a draining point on the radiator on the left driver side. One should think ho much easer hmmm "close but no sigar" The form of the bumper unhtherneat the radiator is not horizontal and there is no evacuation hole in the bumper, so had to make a kind of form/mold and a small hole in the bumper So now the anti freese is directed to the hole and can drip directly in to a container. So..............now its easy or maybe not it always remains a Ferrari After the works are finished i will poste a picture @Imatk, so your verry good suggestion is no option ( for me) anymore as there is no possibility to do so
When the hose is that bad the fitting in the head is usually very rotten too. I have installed dozens of brass 5/8 inch hose barbs in their place. If you get one with 3/8 NPT threads its slightly oversized and you can just drill out the original, run a NPT tap into the hole and install a new barb. All can be done in the car. Same can be done with the small hose barb on the coolant manifold under the plenum chamber.
Am I lucky or am I lucky, in any case I am very satisfied New question, can I treat the barb with something to prevent new aluminum corrosion? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The inside of the barb seems to be smooth, the hose is stil flexible and on the inside no cracks and no contamination after a few cm. It looks as the hose was initialy damaged by a to thigt hose clamp
OK next question. Does the system bleed itself or are there bleed screws somewhere? I haven't started it yet, but some cars such as my Lancia Montecarlo (also rear engine) bleed better when the rear is raised?
There's a bleed screw on top[ of the thermostat housing. Have it open when you fill the system. I've never found any need to open the rad bleed screw. With the pump primed by opening the thermostat bleed screw, the system then self bleeds. There is a lot of bypass back to the header tank which supports this. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Takes a few goes with the fwd rad bleed screw . I park it up a hill 2/3 times and let the air out of the rad when its warmed up Expansion tank should be approx 1/2 to 2/3 rds full when it finally all settled . Run it with the heater full on while you are burping it to get trapped air out of the heater core .
When the factory filled them they did it 100% successfully on a flat floor, open both bleeders, fill until both overflow and you are done. No further action required until next coolant change.
I don't understand it. As mentioned in another thread I replaced the injectors because the engine held back and did not run on 8 cylinders for a while between 2000 and 3000 rpm. Now the replacement did not improve but when I turned off the engine I heard a bubbling in the expansion tank. So I bled the radiator and thermostat housing again......at least for the 4th time and again a lot of air came out. Short ride with hot engine and again a lot of air came out......Again short drive same story. I have done this to this practical all my previus cars (+/- 45) never had any problem Antifreeze in expansion tank is at the correct level and I have no water leaks anywhere so what am I doing wrong or what else can I do?
Put some Hylomar Blue on the barb. It will help seal with a bit less less clamp force avoiding hose damage, and will act as a corrosion barrier. It is a non hardening urethane based compound and the hose can still be removed easily in the future.
So? System needs air to work. Is it running hot or boiling over? Is coolant coming out. If air is going in, something must be coming out. You can bleed it till the cows come home on a perfect functioning system. It needs air.
