COULD HAND BRAKE BREAK MONDIAL T CLUTCH ?

It sounds to me like the problem is not the handbrake, it sounds like your driving technique. Since you have not filled out your profile, I have no idea where you are from. In Europe, England in particular, people are taught to set the handbrake every time they stop with a manual shift car. Then, as you start moving again, you release the handbrake as you are releasing the clutch. In the U.S., just the opposite is taught -- don't set the handbrake when you stop, just keep your foot on the brake pedal.

In either case, you have to slip the clutch a little to get the car going, especially on a hill. On a steep hill, many people don't trust their coordination, so they set the parking/handbrake, and release it as they start moving. If you are keeping the handbrake on too long and letting the clutch slip (not fully releasing the clutch, which would cause the car to stall if the handbrake is still set), you are going to wear out the clutch really fast. You have to really be well coordinated on letting the handbrake down as the clutch starts to grab to avoid burning out the clutch.

Beyond that, I have no idea what you are talking about with redesigning the handbrake mechanism. To release it, you simply pull up, push in the button and let it down. What could be simpler?

Now, fill out your profile so we know who the heck you are.

 

To set the hand brake, we simply pull upward---THEN, just push the lever down out of the way to exit the car.
Release is as follows-------pull up, push and HOLD button then lower. Brake light will go off.

As for the technique of starting off upward on a hill, it's one which every San Franciscan knows. The hand brake holds the car while we let the clutch grab-------BUT------you must hold your thumb on the button so that you can modulate the HB's braking effect with the lever position, WHILE the clutch and gas do their dance.

It can absolutely keep YOU from rolling backwards into the car behind you, as you attempt to get moving forward.

Hope this helps-----------

Cheers, Hank

 

Does anyone use the heel-toe method on a hill? I usually embarrass myself doing this. I use the shotgun method. Get off of the brake pedal and go for the gas and clutch before you roll into the guy behind you. Might not work in SanFran.

Dave

 

I've replaced clutches in 348 drivetrain cars with as little as 1500 miles on them and had cars with 30K plus on the original pieces. Yes, it's possible to smoke these things in short order.

-Peter (clutch replaced in my t Coupe at 17.5K miles for original owner, now at 33K, no problems)

 

I think one of the points or a question Fermin is asking is: Is there a way to modify the handbrake system so the lever stays up when the parking brake is on? Sometimes people are driving the cars while the brake is on and then smoking the clutch and and parking brake shoes. I would venture to say that it is more of a problem on a car that has a marginal or poorly adjusted parking brake (not so tight/strong) so it is not OBVIOUS the parking brake is dragging. If the parking brake is really good and forcefully engaged you'll probably notice. Of course there is the light to remind us that the handbrake is on but..... sometimes people that are not familiar with our cars drive them.

Having the lever stay up will not make getting in and out any easier but for some people this may not be an issue.

I had a mechanic drive my car into the testing station (annual inspection) with the handbrake on. I finally realized it when I heard him really slipping the clutch and giving it a lot of rpm's. One of these days I plan to replace the small bulb for "handbrake on" with a bright, blinking LED. Maybe I'll add a buzzer too.

 

Hey Erich,

I guess we've all been guilty at one time or another, of trying to move a car with the hand brake set I like your idea of a "subtle" alarm or chime. It could be activated when both movement and a set HB exist. Also (remember San Francisco hills) we would need to be able to turn this alarm feature on or off as needed

Cheers, Hank

 

I suppose you could try and get a "movement" signal from the output of the odometer/speedometer sensor and then wire it with the appropriate circuitry to the "hand brake on" ground. With an ABS car you could use the ABS signal instead. If it is a pleasant, not too loud chime you could just have it work with the hand brake ground. It would chime/buzz whenever the handbrake was on and the engine running but it would be much simpler.

Incidentally, I've wired both my Lancia and Ferrari with a "Sonalert" (annoyingly loud 12 volt electronic beeper) which operates when the oil light comes on (low/loss of oil pressure). It will get your attention before you notice the oil pressure warning light, especially in bright sunlight/summer weather.

 

Dino

The parking brake warning light is a metal-to metal contact switch located under the hand brake cover. Taking the cover off and cleaning the contacts of the switch will help the warning light come on. Here are my suggestions to help save your clutch:

- When you set the parking brake, pull it up really hard (it won't break). This will keep the car from moving if you forget.
- When you are starting on a hill, use the hand brake as any other, just push in the button, hold it in, and pull UP FIRST before lowering.
- practice on level ground first to get the "feel" of the brake.
- ALWAYS hold the button in when using the hand brake while moving.

Lessons from a 1990 Mondial t owner

 

Sorry, having troubles understanding full problem: But I'll try

Assuming you are parking on a hill? and you are trying to disengage the brake going up hill??? then engage clutch in 1st, pull up hand brake, MORE than where you just feel the pressure, engage the release button, and THEN at SAME time, engage the clutch moving fwd.

IF you are having troubles disengaging the hand brake, which is sort of what I'm hearing, then pull the hand brake MORE PAST where you set it, say about a 1/4-1/2 inch mark, engage the button IN ALL THE TIME, release the hand lever to floor, the PARK light will go OUT...IF NOT< it is engaged and you need to keep at it until disengaged.....

NOW on the "T" there is a slight wear on the black tip portion of the handle that can slip upwards away from the interior leather bottom of the handle TOWARDS the button....you will NOT be able to disengage if this slips up, you must push the black tip portion down, away from button and towards the hinge.

CHECK your cable too, they DO catch on low slung chasis, like scraping a bump, or [stupid me] gas cover in a gas station once....this will cause damage to cable, needing a finaly replacement

IF you are burning your clutch you are in need of .... practice. clutches are rather expensive to fix on these engines....

Make sure the oil plug is tighlty sealed on bottom pan, or it will ruin clutch due to leakage too.

ask me how I know

don't know if this was what you were asking, but hope it might help