Could use addt'l help on 308 trans shaft seal R & R.

These threads should be helpful, Chris:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76360
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80933

Please refer to the links to the old FC site in these threads. I hope you're planning to use the QUAD-RING® seals in your R&R.

Barry

 

I had a leaking seal a few months ago in my 308. I took the car to a local mechanic. He replaced the seal in about two hours. He said it was pretty easy!

 

Christopher:

A year or so ago, I replaced the shifter shaft seal on my 328 -- thought I would post a few notes:

1) Prior to starting the job, from the top remove the dipstick tube bolt from the timing belt cover, the torque rod? (see below) and the battery prior to jacking car-up.

2) Prior to removing dipstick and oil temp sending unit; use a spray cleaner in the area (prevents grime from entering hole after removal).

3) Engine probably does not have to be lifted-up. I disconnected the cat and slightly lifted engine, but not sure if this was needed. If you do want to lift engine be sure to disconnect torque rod from rear valve cover. On my car there was interference between the shifter rod (from shifter) and the shift shaft being removed from the engine. The fuel tank cross-over tube could be pushed out of the way to allow removal and refitting of the shaft. (it would be good to include the fuel tank sleeves with this procedure) The adjustment fitting does not have to be unloosened.

4) The shift shaft seal is a poor excuse for a seal; it looked like the OD of my seal was the weakest link; if the engine was out, I would consider fitting a regular lip seal with a spring squeezing the lip onto the shaft-the downside is that there excess seal pressure may cause the shifter to be stiff.

5) Dipstick fitting into the case was hard to access and the fitting is very tight. Tried Snap-on 6 Pt, 24mm socket and it would not clear the threaded nipple; 1” deep was unwieldy and could not get long ratchet on it. What worked well for me was a Craftsman 12 Pt 24mm, Std length socket with a extended-length Craftsman Flex ratchet. This ended-up being a very positive arrangement and the fitting just spun-out.

6) People have said this is an approx 9 hour job—this is pretty accurate for a first time, but having the right tools for removing the dipstick fitting would probably knock-off 2 hours (and an unquantifiable gain in frustration relief).

7) It would be best to drain the oil out of both sumps at least a day before (a week would be preferable) —the longer the better otherwise oil will keep dripping down of the gears, pickup tube, Etc.

8) Prior to removal of dipstick tube—put a mark on it (for clocking alignment), near where it fits to the block, to facilitate installation. It is difficult to move the tube around trying to get it in the right place when you are trying to reinstall it.

Enjoy,
Mark

 

as posted before- here are the seal locations. There are no bearings involved with a shift shaft seal replacement.

The plate does not need to come off.

The other photo shows the selector arm (highlighted) that need to be removed from the end of the shift shaft inside the transmission. It's held on with a pinch bolt. Make sure the selector arm goes back in the same place on the shaft when installing it. There is a groove/detent in the end of the shift shaft that the pinch bolt rides in- see photo. This helps with the alignment.

The most difficult part of this job is getting the transmission aligned with the shift shaft after you put everything back together (except the sump cover) so it goes into the correct gears smoothly.

The best way to see how the gear selector works is to watch it while someone shifts through the gears.

Hope this helps.
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