Countach Technical Thread & Questions

Your cranks look beautifully restored!

But the most prevalent issue with window cranks is the stripping of the teeth at the mounting point that occurs with time & use.

 

They were in pretty bad shape. The way they were glued onto the crank, it was a chore getting it off. One was really scratched up. The new leather was such a close match I felt it was worth it just to go with the new leather. And the plus side, I have an extra in case one ever breaks again!

Mike

 

I'm not sure if it was or not.... that was an image Kurt sent to everyone showing how that one heim had a bend to it.

Thanks Joe! And yes, so true! My drivers side was stripped out and broke! The P.O. had used a glue (sort of reminded me of auto glass sealant) that at least allowed you to crank the window up and down a bit. There were enough teeth left to make minor contact so I could get it up and down, but the silly thing wobbled around on the spline something terrible!

Mike

 

Let's play in the sandbox

 

You are lucky you were able to find new cranks!

I can't imagine how you would repair one with stripped teeth, other than to insert some kind of metal toothed sleeve glued in place. Significant work indeed.

This is why the 25th is great. OK I saw an opening and had to take the shot

 

You can go to any auto parts store and buy the cap for a Jaguar v-12 and it will work.
Last time I purchased one it ran about $85.00 for the cap.
I can search for the part number later if you need.

 

I am pretty sure the NAPA part number is # EP897.
You only use the center coil terminal and reuse your old rotor button.
The rotor buttons are almost impossible to find and you cannot use the Jag rotor as it is designed for two coils.
As far as the holes, my original cap does not have any holes. However I have heard people complaining that the cap can accumulate moisture or condensate hence the holes. In my opinion the only way moisture can get in the cap is by washing the car and allowing water to drain onto the distributor.

 

Hmmmm..
Crap.

I ordered the part from the same guy for a week after I Paypal him I have not receive any mail.
Let's see if he e-mailed me back today.
Lucky I use Paypal

 

He just replied to my e-mail.
Now he is saying that my part was ordered from the factory but he has not receive it yet.
hmmmm...
IIRC in his first e-mail he said he had the parts.
Gotta re-check my e-mail archive.

I paid him, July 9th... Paypal max refund is 30 days ??
If he still has not send the parts in 21 days I will put a dispute with paypal.

 

Why would someone buy a part from him you can get directly from the factory...
In that case lambostuff.com is much more reliable.

 

I checked lambostuff they did not have pressure plate for LM002.
I bought many times from lambostuff already.
This guy said he has one in stock... NOT

 

Not Yet.
Thanks for the info.
I will try them when this Clown did not deliver the item.

 

i want to fix in a definitve way a problem i have with the wiper: i need a new wiper shaft. Someone in the US drilled and modified it so now it's no more reliabe. I tried many times, but after some days the wiper does not work anymore. The motor works, the shaft turns but the wiper arm does not move. So i would try to change the motor or just the shaft, but i think if you want a new wiper shaft you have to change the motor too.

Does anyone here know what car used that wiper motor and/or where to find a new one?

The only other way is to weld the wiper arm on the wiper shaft, but i do not like it.

Maybe there is a different way to fix it?

Thank you very much

ciao
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I snapped some shots of an early Countach wiper arm and motor assembly. There are no splines in the wiper arm itself, but the wiper mounting stud has a tapered splined shaft that makes a press fit when tightened.

If you grasp the wiper arm, does it move freely while the stud and locknut remain stationary? If so I'd suspect the splines have stripped.

If the stud and wiper move together, its likely the linkage has failed or the drive stud on the wiper motor is damaged. In the worst case, the worm gear in the motor itself could have failed, but it would make a lot of noise when running.

(sorry for quick iphone shots)
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Thank you very much, Conservatore (are you italian?).

"If you grasp the wiper arm, does it move freely while the stud and locknut remain stationary? "
Yes, it does.

"If so I'd suspect the splines have stripped".
Yes, they did.

We tried in may times to fix it: my pictures show the wiper before some attempts, now there is no more that horrible nut.

The problem is in the conection point between the wiper arm and the motor shaft. The motor works very well. Maybe i have to take out the motor and i think i need a new motor assembly. I would like to weld it...

thanks

ciao

 

Ferrari Boxer parts possibly could be adapted. The alternative would be to try and machine in some new grooves with a new sleeve in the wiper arm.

 

BB viper is same, (but don't tell those F-people, that their car is good source for spare parts to Lamborghini)