430 Crank No Start After 9 Months of Storage

Sounds like we are helping the same person but we are getting different feedback ..if it is the same person his dash is dark (busted) and can't tell if paddlock appears

If paddlock appears the system stops juice to pumps .. iirc





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I spent the necessary time and effort to implement a full immobilizer delete for the F430 a few years ago now that works 100%.

I can completely remove the immobilizer box and once this is done the key will start the car without using fobs at all. Since on the F430 the immobilizer is a distinct unit to the door lock reception that still works even if the immobilizer ecu is totally removed. I've seen a few F430's with immobilizer issues and if you go the dealer route you'll be spending many thousands as they seek to replace everything including engine ecu's which are paired to the immobilizer. This is not required but unfortunately dealers don't have the required tools or support from Bosch to accomplish this.

If you start getting desperate or ridiculous bills start being quoted pm me and I will see what I can do to help. Good luck!

 

Hi all,

Thanks to Qavion on opening this thread (as i don't know where to open the public thread as it requesting to add recipient 1 by 1 which is quite hefty).

Yupp, the FChatter - it was me :-D

Long story short...around 2 years ago, i disconnected the battery from my F430 as i went out a few months outstation for working. After few months, i came back & saw the battery totally flatout, so i tried to jumpstart her using another sedan car jumper wire directly to the battery. That's the starting point when i noticed my instrument panel went blackout with nothing working including all needles, gear display, fault indicator, tachometer, odometer, fuel meter, temperature meter, etc. - no Xmas tree at all. However, battery fully charged, pushed start button, engine cranking, & finally engine running perfectly for drive, but only up to 2nd gear only. Subsequent gear shift up, i need to neutral 1st while driving then shift up 3rd gear, and so was the 4th, 5th, onward (but i didn't drive more than 3 miles). Just drove to wake her up, warming up 2-3 miles, refill fuel, then park again, covered with canvas inside garage for another few months.

1 & half years ago, i came back from outstation, took the disconnected battery plug-in back, tried to wake her up after a few months sleep. Indeed successful. Drove her around a few miles, warm her up, chilling a while, refill the fuel, then park her again under a canvas inside my garage as usual.

Last year, I disconnected my battery & left my F430 longer around 9 months bcoz of outstation tight schedule. As usual, the climate was around 36 deg C (97 deg F). When i came back, bought a new battery with same specs, refill the gas until full, & tried to start the engine. Heard the engine is cranking, but won't start. After a few cranking the engine still not start, i decided it's time to change all 8 spark plugs to a brand new ones, then try starting engine again. It's cranking, but still...the engine won't start.
a) Opened the passenger footrest & tested Power Fuses (Maxi 5 alternator) with digital multimeter, no fuse burnt.
b) Opened the frunk & tested fuses AF1-AF20 (esp AF9 & AF15 instrument panel fuses), no fuse burnt.
c) Opened RHS behind passenger compartment, tested fuses PDF1-PDF26, no fuse burnt.
d) Opened LHS behind passenger compartment, tested fuses PSF1-PSF32, no fuse burnt.
e) Unplugged the RHS fuel pump connector cable, checked the voltage, it read 10.6V, & so was the LHS fuel pump. There is power on both pumps.
f) Took out the plug coil & test spark plug on engine grill while cranking, saw the sparks at iridium laser tip.

Now i'm scratching my head, staring at my F430, weeping at her & asking, why now after 9 months sleep, this time she just won't wake up, unlike before...

Did anybody experienced this kind of symptom b4? Appreciate ur kind supports & assistance...

 

any mice in the garage? maybe chewed through some wires

 

So you proved fuel and spark already ?

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Thought about that too. Opened the engine bay, using a torch light saw all wires good. No cut, nor chewing gum

 

Indeed yes....pulled out 1 coil & touched end of the plug very near to engine grill, saw the sparks light up.

 

Yes, by feel. While driving I pressed the throttle pedal, can hear shift up 1st & 2nd gear only, then it roars out. After immediately engage to neutral, then i can paddle up to 3rd gear. The same step i repeat for 4th, 5th gear onward.

 

I didn't have an OBD scanner, but a mechanic nearby my town has it. I'll ask him to run a diagnostic to see the fault error soon.

Any recommendation of good OBD model to buy, with reset, reflash factory settings/configuration capabilities (in case a good model exists)?

 

Thinkdiag

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Trev @360trev

How does.my theory stand up ..the battery in the immo /alarm unit has been depleted since the main battery was not there and now the immo is not working ..

Does that make any sense

I heard if you leave the key on the on position for 2 hours it will charge the battery in the immo unit and you will be good ..any clue if that makes senses

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Ian

I am on the "move" and probably should have done more research before posting .. but my memory remembers something about the siren battery dying since no main battery to power the alarm system and then once dead you have a padlock on instrument panel. I further remember to "charge" up that battery was to leave main system in "on" position so that the siren battery gets juice and you would be able to start car. Again this is all from my memory and I don't have ( at this moment ) time to search for that post. I was hoping Trev would remember more

 

Then stick a 4 amp old style charger on the terminals behind the passenger seat, when you have volt problems a trickle charger is as much use as a wooden leg at an ass kicking championship.
You mention 10.2 volts at the fuel pump, if the pump has 2 speeds does it have 2 sets of windings or 2 speeds due to the supplied volts. I am thinking 10.2 seems a bit low if low and high speed windings.
You can buy a voltmeter that plugs into the power socket between the seats, gives an LED readout and very handy to see what is going on, only a few dollars from Amazon.
With all the lying around the car has had you might want to think about draining the fuel tanks, you have sparks so it should fire.