CV Boot replacement | Page 2 | FerrariChat

CV Boot replacement

Discussion in '348/355' started by markarelius3, Apr 16, 2008.

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  1. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
    Full Name:
    Mr. Sideways
    Depending on the tear, you can reach into the engine compartment, clean the rubber boot around the tear, and superglue it back together. You did say mechanically challenged, but that's well within novice territory.

    There are also "split boots" that are sold in auto parts stores, too. You don't have to take off the half axle to install those boots. You cut off the old, torn rubber boot and then you put the split boot in place around the end of the half-axle. It has a sealant and some have clamps.

    Neither of the above are ideal solutions. They will work for short periods of time and the mechanically challenged can do either/both to "get by" until the car is in the shop anyway (at which point installing a real boot by taking off the half-axle would be the prefered method/strategy).
     
  2. markarelius3

    markarelius3 Karting

    Jun 17, 2007
    69
    Alpine, UT
    Full Name:
    Mark
    #27 markarelius3, Sep 16, 2009
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2009
    Hmmm.... sorry to hear this Aero. I dont know what is different, however, the CV from Autohaus that I got fit perfectly....bolts and all. Including the difference in thickness of Joint. Must be a 355 vs 348 thing?
     
  3. Aiden

    Aiden Karting

    Mar 13, 2009
    217
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Full Name:
    Aiden Naughton
    I tried the Lobro Porsche 930 CV boots tonight on my '99 355, and they are not the same. While one could probably "make do", they are not the same part. The Ferrari part, also Lobro, has a flat end or lip, where the Porsche part does not. The Porshce boot will fit onto the axle, but the clamps are too wide, and even trying to use a thinner Ferrari style clamp the boot does not fit well and will end up leaking. The boot on the passenger side is leaking and it was changed less than 3000 miles ago. Simply put, the Porsche part will do if you want to save money and don't mind half assed repairs. I figure if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. Get the right part.
     
  4. 348Jeff

    348Jeff Formula 3

    Oct 25, 2011
    1,547
    UK
    Full Name:
    Jeff
    #29 348Jeff, May 15, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I've just replaced the RH side outer boot (not CV Joint) on my 348. I attempted to use a "boot kit" but the fit was a bit too generic for my liking so used a genuine boot which I cut a "split" in with scissors and used the glue from the kit to glue it back together once it was on. Just to add to the professional theme I used cable ties to secure it! Not ideal but I had my MOT (Annual car safey inspection here in the UK) and it passed no problem without having to bribe the examiner! LOL

    So basicly...

    1) Jack both rear wheels in the air and get the car on axle stands and take the handbrake off so you can rotate the wheel round whilst cutting/applying new boot etc

    2) Cut the majority of old boot off with scissors or a knife then snip the old metal ties with either proper cutters or in my case cable snips.

    3) Refill joint with grease

    4) Cut a split in your new boot with scissors or knife

    5) Place the new boot round the shaft then glue up with suitable rubber glue

    6) Position the small end of the boot in its chanel and cable tie in place

    7) Put larger end of boot over other end - bit trickier but persevere -I used a spoon handle with a bit of a bend in to hook the boot lipver into itts channel

    8) Cable tie larger end.

    9) As mentioned since wheels are off ground and no handbrake use the tyre to spin the wheel round to access

    NB Use your own common sense to clean dirt etc away at various tages but dont get cleaner or dirt in the joint for obvious reasons!
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  5. 348Jeff

    348Jeff Formula 3

    Oct 25, 2011
    1,547
    UK
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    Jeff
  6. 348Jeff

    348Jeff Formula 3

    Oct 25, 2011
    1,547
    UK
    Full Name:
    Jeff
    #31 348Jeff, May 15, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The smaller cable tie is white which shows up but the cable tie nearest the hub is black so is not so obvious - but it is there!
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  7. Extreme

    Extreme F1 Rookie

    May 26, 2010
    2,515
    Northern Utah
    Full Name:
    Erick
    Very interesting cutting the boot and glueing back together.
    Does the glue hold up well?
     
  8. 348Jeff

    348Jeff Formula 3

    Oct 25, 2011
    1,547
    UK
    Full Name:
    Jeff
    It has so far! :)

    TBH I didnt think Id get to the end of my drive before it all fell to bits but it seems fine and after letting the glue set (about 20 mins to complettely cure) you can pull and stretch it and the join doesnnt seem to be any weaker than the rest of the boot. Ill let you know if it fails.

    The way I look at it is its better to run round with a "half/split kit boot" than one with a hole in. It may not look pretty but it keeps dirt out and grease in :)
     
  9. johnk...

    johnk... F1 World Champ
    Owner

    Jun 11, 2004
    11,277
    CT
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    John Kreskovsky
  10. 355rockit

    355rockit Formula Junior

    Dec 1, 2010
    893
    San Marcos, CA
    Full Name:
    Vas
    I had the Porsche boot installed since it is 1/4 the price of the Ferrari part. The boot lasted for one 'spirited' drive and blew out. It didn't look pretty. I had the shop install the Ferrari CV boot part. Of course this lasted me a year before it was toast. After the both boots were replaced, I added better heat shielding above the boots and hope they will last longer than 1 year.
     

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