Pro. One day when I'm no longer on a UCI roster (two or three more years max) USA Cycling will move me back down to Cat 1.
Any recommendations on where to start when looking for a bike and the best way to get started in cycling? Finished college last year (Hint: I'm looking for a cheap bike ) and stated a job in June and I've really packed on the pounds, can't stand going to the gym and I hate running, always liked biking as a kid and figured it might be a good way to get into shape.
Well, it's good that you already like biking. Staying engaged in sports is the key to avoiding many health problems later in life. You should start by looking for a good local bike club to join. There are usually one or two associated with each large urban area. Also check out the serious bike shops, ones that offer a breadth and depth of equipment and services that cater to club riders and regular riders. If you have any health concerns you should check with your family doctor as well before you engage. The kind of equipment you need depends on where and how you prefer to ride as well as your budget and how serious you want to pursue the activities. Try not to go too cheap even though people usually learn with inexpensive equipment as they find their way around their needs and the technologies involved. If your first bike is of decent quality it will at least work properly, be comfortable and a keeper, becoming your favourite beater as you move up. The bike clubs can help steer you in the right direction. Experienced club riders can usually make a rough assessment of your level of fitness, potential and offer advice on equipment. Bike shops, magazines and libraries are good sources of information once you narrow down your interests. Try to start gentle and not go too hard. Good rule of thumb is to stop short of how far you think you want to take a personal exercise session unless you have already established a regular training schedule and know your limits. Even experienced cyclists will ease into a season. Otherwise, you risk injury, get burnt out or just get disappointed. It's the desire to go back out there that keeps you engaged. There are usually other club riders starting out at the same time if you begin riding once the weather eases up. You ride together and gently pace each other - avoid racing one another in the beginning. One or two older experienced riders will often lead a group of new riders to make sure you learn safely and enjoy your outings.
Depending on the type of biking you plan on doing of course will decide the bike. I have killed hours on pinkbike.com looking at e classifieds
bike clubs are a fantastic way to get into the sport; do you want to ride dirt, road, both? the most important parts of the bike are the fit and the helmet, everything else is secondary. Lots of local bike shops have group rides they sponsor, often catering to the out of shape needing to start from square one, and are usually free. maybe visit 3-4 and see if there's any you feel comfortable with. unlike cars, there's a lot more similarities between frame manufacturers than differences, with more marketing than technical differences, imho.
:thup: Damn, thats awesome. Didnt know it was like that! To keep pace with the thread, my 09 Capo fixed gear, that I use as my daily commuter most days, and my first "road bike" Caad10 105. Typically ride 50-60 miles a week on the Capo, and try as much as I can Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks guys, I'll run by the local shop this weekend and see what they have, looks like they sell used as well.
Everyone else gave solid advice, I would like to add to certainly shop around, and try out different bike shops. I have 5 within about 30 minutes of me, and I rarely shop with the closest. I ended up driving 2 hours each way to purchase my latest bike. I hate to ask what "cheap" means to you, as in sub 1k, 1.5, or 2k? There are tons of great bikes in the 2k range. Would I recommend starting off there? Nope. You've got the right approach at looking used. If the LBS doesn't size you first, walk out. I had 2 different shops tell me a 54cm was more my size, yet I ride a 56cm. Hope you find something you like and get bit by the bug!
Anyone do any endurance mountain bike races? A friend approached me about doing a team 24 hour endurance race this summer in Mammoth. Not going to win as I am pretty out of shape, but going to go accomplish a seemingly challenging task.
As far as bikes go my version of cheap is about as far down as you can go. lol Went to a shop with a good reputation today and they suggested a Trek 7.2 FX, I want to do some more research online but it seems to be what I'm looking for to get started.
Thinking of maybe getting a new Mt Bike for trails here I want something very light & strong Is Aluminum or carbon frame better, lighter, stronger ? Are disc brakes better & lighter than friction brakes ? Thanks
Having followed your posts for years, I'm thinking you are perhaps more interested in fitness than racing? If so, I wouldn't be so concerned with shaving the last gram of weight. Carbon and aluminum both have pros and cons--ultimately, I think carbon can be a touch lighter. Disc brakes, to me, are much better than rim brakes--though I think they are a touch heavier. But the standard good advice applies to you as well. First of all, get a bike that fits you (not necessarily a custom frame, but likely a custom build unless you fit off the shelf pre-built bikes). This means you are going to need a good shop to work with. Then you gotta decide a couple things. First is suspension--front is almost universal, rear is common--easier on your body, but adds a bit of weight and complexity. It will certainly allow you to tackle harder trails at any given skill level. Second (now) is wheel diameter--common choices are 26, 27.5 and 29. If you can't decide, I'd get 27.5, I have 26 (several) and one 29. I like 'em both, but I like the 29 a little better--if I could only have one bike, I think I'd get a 27.5. You can agonize over every component--but if you have a big enough budget whatever you have will be good. You can get a really decent bike at 1K, a higher end custom build is probably 4-5K, but you can go to about 10K (carbon rims, for example, can go over 2K just for the hoops). Oh, one other thing--I really like running tubeless. Perhaps a touch more weight, but it allows you to run lower pressures (which is airing down off road vehicle tires--an advantage in some situations) and you have better sealing from thorns, punctures, etc. Have fun.
I use the aluminum one (because that's what they supplied me) but the Scalpel 29" is the best mountain bike that I've ever ridden. It's a roadie's mountain bike.
What type of trails are you riding? For non technical trails a 27.5 front suspension bike will be fine. I have been riding 26 inch wheels for a long time never had a desire to switch. If your looking for a top of the line bike, look at the Ibis Mojo slr wtf.
Okay--specific recs. Buy a Pivot. I own two, and I have the designer's previous brand (Titus) as well. The ride is awesome. Ibis is essentially a similar bike, and also awesome. If looking, I would also ride Turner, and Niner. There is nothing like riding some back to back. There are obvious differences, and I preferred the Pivot. I'm not impressed with suspension technology (nor the ride) of the Cannondale, but your milage may vary. Unlike several years ago, advanced rear shock technology has overcome the inherent inferiority of some suspension designs, to the point where it doesn't matter as much.
William lives in Miami. The trails they have (oleta, markham park) are not very technical and while there are no real climbs, there are lots of ups and downs. He doesn't need anything too over the top.
The Pivot 5.7 and Ibis Mojo SLR are great frames. Both have DW rear suspension, stiff and light. They can be built up to any price point.
Exactly..a hard tail would work, why does he need a FS bike when he wont be on technical single trak?
Oleta has technical trails. One of the advantages of DW suspension is you can stay seated while running rough terrain. The suspension will absorb the bumps and the rear wheel will stay firmly connected to the ground. You can pedal through almost anything and the DW suspension will be almost as efficient as a hard tail. It will improve your skill level. I also like hard tails, I rode a Rocky Mountain Blizzard (steel hard tail) for 10 years until recently making the switch. Should have done it sooner.
I need elbow pads , went over the bars cus of a small stump hidden by pine needles No serious damage I think I'll just upgrade my shocks & tires on my old carbon K2 for now
MTB makes me nervous - my nephew's had too many close calls. However if you're a die-hard MTBer, you'll probably enjoy this website that he's on. They have toured alpine locations in Europe and some abroad. The webpages are in German but are not difficult to interpret even if you are not familiar with the language: Archive - Zermatt in 2006 and many more archived galleries Home page [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrnokCPDADM]Trailer[/ame] You can find other videos if you Google "Abenteuer Alpencross". enjoy.
A full suspension would be a good bike for all of the roots and such but I would hardly call Oleta trails "technical."
Sherpa, I watched a 30 second video of oleta on utube before i said that. Videos can be deceiving. Do you bike in Colorado? William, upgrading parts on a frame you like is also a great idea. K2.2
