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Damaged threads in oil pan -- solution?

Discussion in '348/355' started by Zanzibar, Sep 22, 2007.

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  1. Zanzibar

    Zanzibar Karting

    Jul 17, 2004
    119
    #1 Zanzibar, Sep 22, 2007
    One of the steps in the procedure for replacing the exhaust manifold is to drain the oil. I noticed quite a bit of resistance when I removed the drain plug. It turns out that the person who was there before managed to mess up everything by not properly seating the oil drain plug. As a result, the plug threads are damaged and... also the threads inside the hole in the oil pan are damaged. :-( As I see it, the oil pan is aluminum with a threaded steel insert where the drain plug goes. There is no way I can install the damaged drain plug. It just will not catch on. What is the best solution for this rather annoying problem, short of pulling the oil pan. Is it possible to install a new threaded steel insert in the hole? Would a helicoil installation save me? Anyone out there who has experienced the same problem?

    Thanks,
    Rik Gruwez
    Bruges, Belgium
     
  2. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    #2 cf355, Sep 22, 2007
    Helicoils can work in aluminum but work best in cast iron.
    Considering this needs to be an oil tight seal and the drain bolt will be removed regularly one should remove the oil resevoir and take it to a welder who can tig weld a new boss there .....for a permanent repair. Such a repair (if you take the oil resevoir out yourself) would cost here around $50.00.
     
  3. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Formula Junior

    Jun 29, 2005
    500
    Clifton, NJ
    Full Name:
    Oliver
    #3 Quadcammer, Sep 22, 2007
    you may want to try running a tap through there to see if you can clean up the threads before going to the helicoil/timesert route.
     
  4. Miltonian

    Miltonian F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2002
    5,966
    Milton, Wash.
    Full Name:
    Jeff B.
    #4 Miltonian, Sep 22, 2007
    Are we talking about the oil drain plug on the bottom of the dry sump oil tank, or the oil drain plug on the bottom of the engine itself?
     
  5. Zanzibar

    Zanzibar Karting

    Jul 17, 2004
    119
    #5 Zanzibar, Sep 22, 2007

    What is the effort involved in removing a 355's oil pan? Anydone done this before?
    Regards,
    Rik
     
  6. Zanzibar

    Zanzibar Karting

    Jul 17, 2004
    119
    #6 Zanzibar, Sep 22, 2007

    It is the drain plug on the bottom of the engine itself.
    Regards,
    Rik
     
  7. davehelms

    davehelms F1 Rookie

    Jan 3, 2004
    4,629
    Full Name:
    Dave Helms
    #7 davehelms, Sep 23, 2007
    Tricky but doable. The rear of the sump is sealed by a thin o-ring that one has to be quite careful with. Attempt the repairs in place first.

    Dave
     
  8. bcwawright

    bcwawright F1 Veteran

    Jul 8, 2006
    5,234
    Georgia
    Full Name:
    Bruce
    #8 bcwawright, Sep 23, 2007
    +1....that o-ring is very easy to mess up. If done in place be sure to clean/flush the repaired area out very carefully...the sump pickup screens do a good job of filtering, but I wouldn't take any chances.
     
  9. Zanzibar

    Zanzibar Karting

    Jul 17, 2004
    119
    #9 Zanzibar, Sep 24, 2007
    That did not work. I did manage to get the old helicoil out though. I ordered a 22mmx1.5 helicoil installation tool, which should be here tomorrow. Then I will try to insert a new helicoil. Wish me luck...
     
  10. Miltonian

    Miltonian F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2002
    5,966
    Milton, Wash.
    Full Name:
    Jeff B.
    #10 Miltonian, Sep 24, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Good luck!

    I'm not sure if the "oil pan" setup is the same on a 355 as it is on a 348, but is it possible that the plug you removed was NOT the actual oil drain plug ("scarico olio") on the vertical face at the FRONT of the engine (#15), but was instead the cover plug for the oil pump on the BOTTOM of the pan? They're not the same, and many people have made that mistake before!
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  11. Zanzibar

    Zanzibar Karting

    Jul 17, 2004
    119
    #11 Zanzibar, Sep 24, 2007
    I seem to have removed the correct plug. ;-) Number 15 has damaged threads. The damaged helicoil which I intend to replace is number 19 in the drawing.
    Regards,
    Rik
     
  12. BeachBum

    BeachBum Formula 3

    Dec 9, 2003
    2,058
    The Beach of Course
    #12 BeachBum, Sep 24, 2007
    Make sure you run the Helicoil tap through the threads to clean them out, Use Lubrication, Then wash out the Lube, If there was already a Helicoil in the hole the tap should go in and out very easy. Try putting a dab of Locktight on the coil before inserting it. There pretty easy to put in. You shouldnt have a problem.
     
  13. markarelius3

    markarelius3 Karting

    Jun 17, 2007
    69
    Alpine, UT
    Full Name:
    Mark
    #13 markarelius3, Sep 25, 2007
    Helicoil should work fine... we've had to use a helicoil to replace the threads on a plug hole on a race engine with an aluminum head running 21 PSI of boost. Compression was fine. MANY recommend Time-serts (or keenserts) as a much better product over the Helicoils.
     

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