Guys, This is just frustrating if not comical... Let me start from the beginning. When I got me car a couple years ago I realized that the window switches on the driver's door were reversed - meaning the switch for the driver window was on the right, and the switch for the passenger window was on the left. Both switches work, but they're just reversed. 'No biggie... I'll get to switching them around some day', I thought to myself.... Well that day was supposed to be last weekend... until I ran into a few snags: FIRST - there was not enough wire loom to simply reverse them back. I'm guessing when the last explorer of this Ferrari's window switches fixed whatever issue they were fixing they simply didn't leave enough wire length, so they left the switches the way they were... in reverse. THEN I realized that the window switches work while the car was off... which is weird, and might explain the small but present remaining parasitic draw! Even with the car off the window switches lights are on! and they work the windows up and down! In an effort to NOT remove the door skins to fix this issue the right way I thought I'd make a 'pigtail' maybe 6" in length to add to the switch receiver (the left/passenger switch as it were) so I'd have room to reverse them back to their native positions. But when I made and installed the pigtail it didn't work... SO, since I had to go to work (this was all just occurring at 5:30am this morning!) I thought I'd just plug the switch back in and deal with it later.... BUT now the switch didn't work! the light was off on the left/passenger switch, but remained on for the right / driver's switch! F--K! So I went to the passenger side door just to make sure the passenger window still worked with it's door's switch and it did. thank goodness. BUT when I went back to the driver side door the light for the left passenger window switch was now ON again!! WTF!! Alas it did NOT work the window... just the light was on... So I unplugged it again to clean the paddles and blow some air in there in case there was contamination of some kind... Alas that did not work, and when I plugged it back in again the light again was off!! WHAT IN GOD'S GOOD NAME IS GOING ON HERE! Again I did the old passenger door window thing and again the light came back on for the afore mentioned switch, and again it did NOT work the window... just the light was on. So there I left it... Indeed I will be taking the doors apart at some time to address this... but holy moly what the heck did some previous mechanics do!! cheers everyone and happy father's day would love some input... or laughs!
There is a long and unintelligible explanation of window operation in the WSM. The windows, of course, have to go up when you exit the car and close the doors. In some configurations, power will remain on the windows for 2 minutes.
Yes fortunately my windows go up when I close the door without issues. I didn’t think about the power remaining to the switches for a couple minutes. I will have to follow up on that! That would certainly alleviate a little bit of my stress regarding constant versus switched power to the windows!
Update: Qavion - you were right to some degree. WITH THE CAR OFF: Looking through the windows the driver side of the car - the driver window switch (again misplaced on the right of the two switches) light remains on = bad while the passenger window switch light is off; the passenger window switch light is also off on the passenger door. When you open the driver door nothing happens to the lights of the passenger window switches, and again the driver window switch remains lit up. When you open the passenger door the passenger window switches light turn on - and after closing the passenger door the switch lights remain lit for 2 minutes on both doors. The driver window switch works the window with the driver door open or closed The passenger window switches work the passenger window ONLY WHEN THE PASSENGER DOOR IS OPEN = very odd I will return to the warehouse tomorrow and check the status of the windows with the car running; I suspect the windows will work as intended with the doors open or closed…
I’m wondering if there is a timed relay somewhere in the door, or intrinsic to the door/window ECU that is malfunctioning letting the driver window switch to stay lit even when the car is off / has been off with doors closed more than 2 minutes… Does anyone have any ideas about this? Thanks
My switches have always worked with the car off and doors opened. I the backlight in them stays lit for a short period of time too then goes off. I dont normally leave my car connected to a Ctek and haven't had any voltage drain. My car also starts without the clutch pedal being pushed in too. Is that standard as well for this era?
so in the end sounds like my car’s only issue may be that my driver door / driver window switch stays lit forever… I’ll check tomorrow to see if mine starts without pushing the clutch…
Have you gone through the WSM to see if you can figure out what's going on? Having the car in front of you, you may be able to make more sense of the system than I can. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Could there be an issue with the wiring near the hinge? Is there a clearer description of window operation in the Owner's Manual?
Unfortunately there is nothing really to help me in the owner’s manual. However, I think my issue lies in the ECU where by a time-delay relay for shutting power off to that switch is faulty (stuck on). It’s really not the biggest deal, and although I certainly can (and eventually will) take apart the door skins for one thing or another at which time I’ll take a look and see if there’s anything obvious to be fixed, I’m probably going to leave it well enough alone for now…. Pandora’s box I’ve got plenty of other things to fix! At least my windows work! PS- I redid my pigtail (to reverse the switches back to their native positions) and it worked! So now driver’s window switch on the left / and passenger window switch on the right! And all is well with the world…
So a little follow up: I decided the pigtail idea was a bit sketchy, and it was a bit cramped under the switches in the little void of the handle where the wires live under the switches. So I decided to take off the door cards and explore the cause of the shortened wires. Ultimately it was simply that the previous technician had ‘tucked’ the wires too tightly under the door-card. So..I simply pulled myself some more length and problem solved. I also found some suspect wiring for the speaker and door puddle lights - an easy fix though… However, I found something baffling, and I’m hoping others with more experience working on these doors can shed some light. The window ECU has 2 large electrical connections on one of the sides, but only 1 was plugged in! I’m hesitant to plug the other in; all my door electronics work fine (including the driver window switch that stays on), so I don’t know what else the electrical connection could be for. Anyone have any ideas! See picture Image Unavailable, Please Login
Found this picture in my files.... Image Unavailable, Please Login Looks like someone was brave enough to plug it in. The simplified wiring diagram in the WSM doesn't show wire colours or plug configuration (EDIT: could be an input from the opposite door window switch if it only has 3 wires). On one of the doors it will be unusued. Maybe the harnesses are the same on each door and the plug isn't used on one side.
Diagram here: https://www.dropbox.com/t/wjJ6ZUb3jjUDxnPh The only differences seem to be the programming jumper (on the passenger side) and an input from the window switch on the opposite door.
Ian, thank you! that drop box pic is invaluable. As I look at the pic and compare it with my pic I will make an assumption/hypothesis: I think the unplugged connector in my pic is connected to an interrogation port or some test connector. I found under my door card another male connector that was unused, but I didn't trace it because I didn't have time. I will check it this weekend. If I'm correct then it 'doesn't matter' that the connector in my pic is unplugged, because it's just for testing or analysis. Another reason I think it's a test port is because in my pic the connector that is still connected has 11 colored wires coming out of it; similarly, in your drop box file at the top of each ECU there are 11 connections! and no discernable depiction of the 'additional' connection point. stand by - will investigate further... again - ty!
I think I’m wrong about the test port idea…. I took the door card off again today just to see and it’s kind of a mess back there…. Again everything works… but there’s a lot of splicing going on… I wish I had an original with which to compare. If anyone has pics of the inside of their relatively unscathed door card please send me a pic! Here’s mine! What the hell is the blue 3-wire male connector? Image Unavailable, Please Login
