Daytona pinion seal replacement | FerrariChat

Daytona pinion seal replacement

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by jimmyr, Sep 8, 2024.

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  1. jimmyr

    jimmyr Formula Junior

    Oct 10, 2004
    342
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Full Name:
    Jim
    Can the pinion seal on the Daytona be replaced without removing the transaxle? Any tips would be appreciated.
     
  2. Ferrari Tech

    Ferrari Tech Formula 3

    Mar 5, 2010
    1,217
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    Wade Williams
    Can you be more specific? As it is a transaxle, the "pinion seal" would be the input shaft seal. You can do without removing the transaxle but it will still need to be disconnected and slid back far enough to get the torque tube out. Then the seal can be changed. It may be easier to just pull the transaxle out and leave the torque tube in place. I haven't had one out in many years so I am just going off memory.
     
  3. jimmyr

    jimmyr Formula Junior

    Oct 10, 2004
    342
    Scottsdale, AZ
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    Jim
    Yes, it is the input shaft seal, and my concern was could it be changed without splitting the transaxle housing case. Now to decide which to remove the torque tube or remove the entire transaxle. It seems like a toss up on which is easier as I do not have any assistance to help me.
     
  4. Motob

    Motob Formula 3
    Professional Ferrari Technician

    Nov 11, 2003
    2,368
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    Brian Brown
    On a Daytona you have to remove the transaxle first, then you can remove the torque tube. There is no "splitting the transaxle housing case" on a Daytona. If you look at how it is constructed, there is a main housing, a front cover and a cover on the left side. The seal is in front cover, which can be replaced on once the driveshaft coupling on the input shaft of the transaxle has been removed.

    You do run the risk of having the transaxle leak at the gasket between the front cover and the main housing if you remove it, as the studs that secure the torque tube to the transaxle also apply pressure to this joint. I recommend draining the lubricant from the gearbox before removing it to lessen the risk of a leak after the repair.
     
    JL350 and TTR like this.
  5. jimmyr

    jimmyr Formula Junior

    Oct 10, 2004
    342
    Scottsdale, AZ
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    Jim
    Thank you for the insight on this project. Once the transaxle is removed is the front pinion seal easily removable from the front with a snap ring?
     
  6. Ferrari Tech

    Ferrari Tech Formula 3

    Mar 5, 2010
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    Wade Williams
    I don't remember a snap ring holding the seal. You should be able to pull the seal and install a new one without much issue.
     
  7. jimmyr

    jimmyr Formula Junior

    Oct 10, 2004
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    Jim
    Thank you for your kind inputs, I will get at this now and report.
     
  8. Motob

    Motob Formula 3
    Professional Ferrari Technician

    Nov 11, 2003
    2,368
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    #8 Motob, Sep 14, 2024
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2024
    The seal is just pressed into a bore in the front cover, no snap ring. I put spacers/washers and nuts on the front studs of the transaxle, the same thickness as the end plate of the torque tube, while I am working on it, replacing the seal.

    This keeps pressure on the gasket joint between the front cover and main housing, to prevent the seal of the gasket from getting broken and leaking oil.

    Be glad it is not a 275GTB or 275GTS, for some reason Ferrari put a lip on the outside of the front cover. So in order to replace the front seal, you would have to remove the front cover to access the seal from the inside.
     
    TTR likes this.
  9. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
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    Brian Crall
    On a transaxle the age and simplicity of a Daytona since it requires removal I'd consider resealing it. Not doing so runs the risk of it springing a leak from another aged source after this repair. The cost in parts is literally pocket money.
     
  10. jimmyr

    jimmyr Formula Junior

    Oct 10, 2004
    342
    Scottsdale, AZ
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    Jim
    Brian, thanks for the reminder, but this seal was my fault this time. I had the transaxle out last winter and changed the seals and gaskets, quite easy and inexpensive as you pointed out. Here is the big but; I did not change the pinion seal as it was not leaking and I think I just forgot! The seal was in the pack of parts I received from GT Car Parts, so I should have had my eyes open. Seems Royal Purple oil helped show me my error. Anyway, out she comes again, and I will do it right this time!
     
  11. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    Use better oil.
     
  12. Motob

    Motob Formula 3
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    Ha Ha!
     
  13. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    I am serious. For one thing I put it in a clients car on request. He was back a couple days later to have it drained back out.
     
  14. Motob

    Motob Formula 3
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    #14 Motob, Sep 16, 2024
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2024
    What are you using these days? My preference is Swepco 201 80W-90 in transaxles and Joe Gibbs Driven Racing 80W-90 GL4 in regular gearboxes. I recently rebuilt a gearbox in a 1959 250 TDF and used the Driven oil, and it shifted very nicely .
    Our shop has the Driven Racing GL5 gear oil, but I have not tried it in a transaxle yet. I just rebuilt a 246GTS transaxle, but used Swepco 201 as an assembly lube since I know that it works.
     
  15. Edward 96GTS

    Edward 96GTS F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 1, 2003
    11,098
    not Brian here, but i use Mobile 1 in my daytona with 1/2 to 1 tube friction modifier.
     
  16. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    Hate to say it but I quit drinking the Kool Aid with Swepco a long time ago. Cold shifting sucked and it takes a long time to heat up 18 pints of gear oil. Redline, Mobile 1 and Shell are all better. Hot many are OK but well into the 21st century skipping gears because of Victorian era oil isnt acceptable. I can shift either of ours into any gear, up or down stone cold like its a Miata.
     
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  17. RayJohns

    RayJohns F1 Veteran
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    May 21, 2006
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    I've had real good luck with Motul gear oils. I've also been running Liqui Moly but will be switching back to Motul gear oil I think.

    Brian, have you ever used Motul's 300 gear oil in any Ferrari transmissions and if so what's your opinion of it?

    Ray
     
  18. jimmyr

    jimmyr Formula Junior

    Oct 10, 2004
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    Jim
    The fill after new seals was Valvoline 80-90. I was warned that synthetic oils may cause leaks where normal oil was less likely to leak. With ALL new seals this time will give Redline a try.
     
  19. Dr Tommy Cosgrove

    Dr Tommy Cosgrove Three Time F1 World Champ
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    May 4, 2001
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    It is my understanding that syns do not cause leaks - but they will make any existing leak much worse.
     
  20. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    I just moved out of a house we lived in for 10 years. It was new when we moved in. 3 cars parked in that garage for those 10 yeas always in the same place. All 3 had nothing but synthetics.
    The concrete had a small oil stain the size of a golf ball under the 328. A small stain the size of a grapefruit under the Testarossa and an overflowing drip pan under the E55 Mercedes. Oil leaks are a reflection of the quality of the car, not the oil you use.
     
  21. Ferrari 360 CS

    Ferrari 360 CS F1 Veteran

    Dec 4, 2004
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    Jacques
    Quite agree, best we do not mention certain British cars!
     

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