Daytona Rebuild

It was originally supplied in a colour called Rosso Chiaro 20 -R -190 described as 'light red'. You can (just about) see (I hope) from the build sheet that it was, I think, originally programmed to be finished in rosso cordoba 106-A-7 but I am guessing it was changed by the purchaser.

Also here in the photos, is a bit of her history along with a photo of the leaded headlight area

Pete. I asked Mike Osgood the question about burning off the primer on the inside of the leaded panels and here follows his answer.....

Hi Tim,
As you know the primer that goes underneath, inside, in-between all the panels is zinc, it will withstand high temperatures and is used between panels that are going to be spot welded as it dose not burn back, it is expensive, makes mig welding difficult but it ensures that the body will last longer than mine so it is something I do.
Do you remember the story I told you of the Lusso I had to weld a patch in the floor and that years later when the car was worth a great deal more and I was rebodying it, I came across the area that I had repaired and painted with Zink, it was good and sound, but the remainder of the floor had rusted around it.
I should have written a book on renovating a Ferrari car.
I will take a picture of the underneath of an area that I have applied body solder to, to illustrate it better and satisfy your readers.I will try to do it tomorrow and send the picture in the evening.
That area around the lamp unit's took all day to complete, one of the reasons lead is not used a great deal nowday's, plus the material itself is expensive and it hurts when it gets under ones finger nails whilst applying it, but a sense of humour helps.

Best regards Mike.
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A few more...
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Interesting, indeed.....so there's TWO red choices that would be considered 'original'..

Leading was outlawed here as the personal health hazards of prolonged exposure are indeed damaging...maybe not as fast as a .357 caliber but the eventual result is the same!

Only the Hot Rod crowd continues the skill, practiced in dark alleys and such.
"Chopped and channeled" still carries great weight, there...

Oddly 5,000 volt electrical systems once used "PILC" cables...Paper Insulated Lead Covered...and if you splice an old manhole with that in it, the Union will go get some guy out of a Nursing Home to heat a ladle up for the job!

(just joking, but a nod to vanished trade skills!)

 

If you're interested in a dark grey metallic, here's a picture of one of my Daytona Spyders in the dark grey/burgundy color combination. Looks good to me.

Steve
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Thank you, that was interesting. I guess the logical next question is what is this zinc paint, please ... so I can use it on my cars.

Pete

 

zinc plating is "hot dipped galvanized" when applied in molten form..

It can be electroplated, IIRC or available as paint in "ZRC" which in the slang is "cold galvanized".....

 

The idea is the break the iron oxidation........boats use exposed zinc anodes for the same reason to fight corrosion.......galvanic action?

The natural current flow between dissimilar metals..

Hence the term galvanized....

Your straining my brain! LOL!

 

To dip the whole car in a molten vat would warp it from temperatures involved and add HUGE weight as it dripped off after plating...common with boat trailer assemblies though.

WHAT color is YOUR favorite, Tim Roper?

 

My favourate is a very dark metalic grey that I don't think Ferrari do. Aston Martin do a version called Tungsten and as I drive around I've spotted a few different makes of car in a nice dark shade, including VW and Peugot!

I like the idea of a bugandy trin, like Steves Spyder but am worried that it might put a future purchasor off if he wanted the car returned to red. So I guess I will go for a retrim in black.

Tim

 

I'll second that motion!

 

Pete

Mike Osgoods latest email and pictures.

Hi Tim,
I have just finished leading up the last big area, and after two weeks of that part of the operation I have had enough of body soldering for a while.
As promised a picture, well several pictures of the properties of Zink paint. I started by just warming the piece of metal that I had sprayed with Zinc but there wasn't anything to take a picture of (no blisters) so I decided to heat the metal in one spot to melting point, and then take a picture, as you can see, no blisters and the material is only destroyed where the metal is almost molten.
So this is why I use this process in between welded panels, inside doors, etc,etc. I am glad you asked the question as again this is part of the way I work and if you look back at some of the early pictures you will see that I make good use of Zinc primer.
Normally as an owner Tim you would only see the outer surface with the lovely coat of paint but by asking the question you can now understand how far I go to make shure of a rust free result, it takes me longer to renovate a car but I don't care because I will put my name to any one of my restorations. Bloody arrogant and proud of it that's me.

Best regards Mike.
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Mike osgood can't see the photos when he logs on to this thread on fchat, can anybody shed any light on this for him please?

Tim

 

Is he registered? Have to be to see the pics

 

I concur.

The difference in quality is the work you don't see; that's why the work I do is plastered all over the internet (case in point) for the owners to see
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Do you have any more photos of that colour combo Steve?

By the way, what are those wheels on the Spyder? I am thinking Borranis on mine, 9 inch on the rears.

Tim

 

What's the process I'm watching here?

Great thread!

 

Tim,

Those are 7.5 inch Borranis that are still with the car. In my opinion, 8s x 9s look a bit too aggressive on a Spyder. 7.5s all around, or 7.5s x 8.0s look better. On Coupes, I like the 8 x 9 look. Borrani 8s are easy to find/get. Cromodora 8s, on the other hand, are bit more difficult.

I'm going to PM you on the pictures.

Steve

 

Interesting believe this car spent some time locally down under not so long ago!

 

That was to illustrate some of the things you don't see in the finished product (what Tim Roper's Daytona restoration specialist refers to).

What you were actually looking at was a coat of epoxy-chromate primer on top of the finished metal work, followed by a brushable seam sealer (can't be too neat, or it won't look factory applied), then the application of a textured undercoat and finally, the topcoat. In this particular example (1999 BMW M Coupe) the topcoat was mixed to match the factory gray-green E-coat color.

The entire process of the differential mount/trunkfloor repair and reinforcement of that car can be found here:
www.rfdm.com/gallery/album55

Now, back to Tim's Daytona...

 

Thanks!

 

Hey we should re name this thread 'All the RRR'S'

Restoration, Repair and Rustfroofing Of Rare caRs !

 

I think I've got the general direction of the colour scheme now, something between the Porsche (don't you love the wheels) and the 599. Am thinking of customising the existing Chromadoras like the Porsche.

Photo of 599 by kind courtesy of Marcel Massini.

I think the Daytona would look stunning in that colour and particularly in that setting. Hope to post a picture in the future when the car is finished in exactly the 599's setting (once I find out where that is), that should be a good adventure.

Also trying to source all white front indicator lenses, slightly tinted glass and exploring replacing all the chrome trim with black powder coated.

It's a personal thing!
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Tim,

How is the restoration going? It's been quiet around here. Any more photos you can share?

 

There has been a delay at the spray shop which has put matters on hold for a bit but I am assured it is going in for paint any day now.

I hope to get up to the shop and take some pics, once things start moving again.

At least she is off the jig and sat on a dolly awaiting collection.

Tim
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Hi Guys

Thought you might be interested in an update.

After several stop starts, the car has been in the sprayshop for a couple of weeks now and is being made fair with alternate coats of two pack 'stopper' followed by flatting down and she is starting to look pretty good. Drove up to Cirencester today to check on progress and took the following photos. By the end of next week she should be ready to go into the spray shop proper, where she will have coats of etch primer, high build primer, base coat colour, lacquer and finally a good old final flatting down and polish.

Tim
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