Daytona steering box

The Daytona box is a ZF as in the late 50's and on cars, correct?
I have taken mine apart, replaced seals and adjusted it for free-play.
john

 

I've fully serviced several of the "later"-style units, none of the "early"-style, yet.
Not sure if any Daytona steering gears I've "serviced" qualifies as "rebuild" since none required any "hard" parts, unlike the 1930 Cord steering gear about a year ago that required EVERYTHING inside due to a some previous "rebuild" effort performed by some one who should never be allowed to work on anything mechanical, let alone on any vessel intended to have direct contact with any living creature. Had to have new worm gear, sector shaft roller and the input shaft made/replaced along with upgraded bearings and seals to accommodate oil instead of grease lubrication. Scariest thing was to find out the need for all this AFTER I've test driven the car at speeds exceeding 45-50 miles per hour and owner telling me later he had been driving it with THAT "rebuild" for years, including numerous occasions with his children, grand- and/or great grandkids as passengers. Apologies for a slight ranting.
My first Daytona steering gear service years ago would probably make another funny story in the book if I'd ever get around writing one.

 

I believe the Daytona is a worm and peg type steering box. I have rebuilt this type of box before. Some key things to watch if you are rebuilding it, first bearing preload is critical. If there is too much clearance the steering will be sloppy, if it is too tight it will kill any feel through the steering wheel and will not be pleasant to use. You are aiming for the magic spot of no clearance with no preload. The peg has a tendency to wear, but you may be able to press is out and reinstall it 90 degrees from its previous position and reuse it. Finally the bushing wears which also introduces slop. Check the bushing to shaft clearance both axially and perpendicular to the axis, both can give you slop in the steering. If you get it right the steering will feel great and will be a joy to use. If you get it wrong it will be like dragging a stick through through the mud.

Cheers Jim

 

Hi Jim, when I first got my PF coupe the steering had a little too much free-play for my taste. I took the ZF box apart, the worm looked fine, so I played with the shims so with the wheels off the ground you could twist the steering column with one hand and watch the wheels react immediately, with zero free-play. Then I set the sector drag so taking the steering from lock to lock (with the front off the ground) was free w/o any grab or resistance in the middle range. Would you say we are at the sweet spot? Did I miss any steps? Thanks.

john

 

Sounds perfect to me. In the end if the steering is smooth with no play like yours then you did it right. Getting the wheels off the ground makes a huge difference in being able to set up the steering. It tremendously improves your ability to feel if the steering is right.

Your comments remind me, I like to have the Pittman arm disconnected from the steering arms when setting the bearing preload. I feel it is easier to feel if the preload on the bearings is excessive, however it does make it harder to tell if there is to much free play in the bearings. If the preload is excessive it will feel a little gravelly when you turn the wheel.

Cheers Jim

 

Thanks Jim. Good to know it's way it should be.

john