Dead Battery Questions

http://www.optimabatteries.com/publish/optima/americas0/en/config/product_info/automotive.html

 

Maybe we should also look at why it's going dead as well..

 

I have an Optima Red Top in my 355. It still drains dead if the car sits for more than a week or so without a tender.

I usually just turn the battery switch off between drives. No problems at all other than the clock always being wrong.

 

Hi Brian, Just a thought for you. When you shut the power off on your car you are turning off your engine ECUs too. When start the car again your ECUs have to reset themselves. If you don't let the engine run at idle for 10 min. without moving the rpms your engine can run poorly. You really should use a battery tender instead and on the positive side your clock will always be correct. Regards, Vern

 

You can't go wrong by installing a new battery to get going again. On the other hand, you *can* go wrong with a charger or a jump start.



The ideal trickle charger method, if you *must* keep a battery tended, is to do so out of the vehicle (completely unconnected to the vehicle) as aircraft owners do.

This is not to say that charging or jump starts don't work; this is to say that charging or jump starts carry more risk than would installing a pristine battery.

 

Hey Vern, Are you sure about the ecu resetting? I remember reading on my 348 that the knob did not reset the ECUs.... I was never certain - it could have been bad info though...

-dave

 

Yes, I'm positive I do it now and again if I'm working on the motor. Turning the knob/switch off doesn't reset them but, turning the knob/switch off shuts power off to them and requires then that you need to allow them to reset themselves by idling the engine for 10 min. The switch in trunk shuts the whole car down. Regards, vern

 

Regarding your battery problem. It is very common for the 348 and 355 to drain batteries, and the solution is MUCH simpler than plugging in a drip charger every time you pull into the garage. Read on.

Go to Walmart in the automotive section, and get a switch (it's a knob that you turn) that hooks up to the positive post of the battery. When you are through with the car, simply turn that knob a bit and there is no more "pull" on the battery. It takes 30 seconds tops.

 

I have an Interstate battery and I normally go 1 1/2 to 2 weeks between drives - never had a problem. Not tendered at all. Even in the cold months.

 

When mine was draining the battery, I bought and installed a new ground lead.
Worked just fine (no more dead battery).

Vern - so turning the knob does not lose the codes but does require them to re-learn?

-dave

 

I'm not sure what you are asking but, I'll try to answer. If there are fault codes set/stored by the diagnostics progam in the ECU they would be erased by turning off power but, would return if the fault was not corrected. Such as a sensor sending out an out of parameter signal to the ECU. Example: The TPS is set to operate between .4Mv to .6Mv(IIRC) if the signal is above or below that the ECU will set the CEL on the dash and store that fault code in the ECUs memory. You could then read the ECU and determine from the stored code(s) which sensor(s) is malfunctioning. Correct the sensor problem shut the power off to the ECU to clear the code. The ECU doesn't lose its preprogrammed fuel data maps or ignition data maps when you turn off power just erases the error codes. The ECU has adaptive memory and needs to reorganize itself(lack of a better way to explain) after the power has been cut. If you don't let the ECU reset itself for that 10 min. period(WSM stated time)you could have drivability problems, stalling is a common prob. On my 348 I had this situation if I didn't follow the rules but, on my 355 I hadn't noticed any problems when I forgot to let the engine idle for ten minutes. Anyway tho, you need to let it run for 10 min. before you drive the car and do not touch the throttle at all, just start the car and let it idle for 10 min. There are some very good books out there on bosch FI that are very good at explaining theory and obviously can explain things better than I do. Anyway hope that helps. Regards, vern

 

Jodi,

You would be best off to put in a new battery. If that battery is 4-5 years old, it's time.

Spend $100 and change out the battery.

Then keep the trickle charger on it.

Remember that recently you had work done on the car we all went through with you. There may be a connection there or it's a coincidence.

I think I'd work around what was done to repair your belt to see if something was loosened and not properly tightened.

Then again, it may be time for that battery to go to battery heaven.

 

How much are they going to "charge" you for that battery, Jodi?

 

Nice post. That answers my question.

 

BUY A OPTIMA THE NEW INTERSTATE BATTERYS ARE NOT ABLE TO BE BOLTED IN DUE TO THE DESIGN OF THE LIP. I BOUGHT ONE AND AM NOW STUCK WITH THE BATTERY NOT BOLTED IN. BEFORE I BOUGHT THE NEW BATTERY, I TRIED TO CHARGE THE OLD ONE AND SCREWED UP THE POWER TOP AND SECURITY SYSTEM. THE BATTERY TENDERS ARE GREAT WITH DRAINED BATTERIES BUT CAN'T HELP DEAD ONES! GOOD LUCK BUY OPTIMA

 

This idea will not work on a 355...well, not without an incredible amount of work each time! Here's why...the battery is in the right front fender...to get at it, you must jack up the car (chock wheels), remove the right front wheel, then the cover in the fender liner...not "user friend" in my book. Get the battery tender!

 

Amen to that! When I bought a new Optima Red Top for my 355, I spent about 30 minutes looking all around my car for the battery before I realized I had to jack the car up and remove the front wheel to get to it. I hadn't felt that stupid since the first trip to the gas station and I couldn't figure out how to get the gas flap to open. There were teenagers around taking pictures of my car while I sat there flipping through the manual trying to find out what to do. But then again... I am an idiot!!!

 

Jody,

What's the latest in the mysterious saga of your alternators?

Resolved?

 

Jody,

That's great but what has been causing you to eat up alternators?

I think that's the more crucial issue.

Are you saying that all the others were replaced but the belt was the same?

Give some incite, please.

maybe the alternator just neede vitamins!

 

You might want to think about a high output alternator and a second smaller battery for the audio system.

If you are playing that equipment and not driving it 30-50 miles you will run down that battery. It will never recharge from just the engine start.

Better give it vitamins!!