Dead clutch 360 F1

Kevlar clutch should be bullet proof. But.........the kevlar clutch plate will be harder on your flywheel.The kevlar clutch surfaces glaze easily.
Flywheel is expensive to replace, the stock OEM clutch is not. Stick with the stock clutch IMO. Apparently the F1 system does not go well with the grab style of the kevlar clutch. Also, I would not replace anything if your clutch was working ok to begin with. Dont fix if it aint broke IMO. Good luck.

 

thankfully the clutch on my 360 is practically brand new but i am curious "i understand adjustment is needed with the TCU/ECU when F1 clutch is installed in earlier 360, do you have to have an authorized ferrari dealer install them or can any competent independent ferrari service can do them?"

thanks

 

When replacing the clutch plate(s) it is necessary( I believe) to inform/update the TCU with the parameters/measurements/thickness in millimeteres of the new clutch drive plate, and so your chosen independent service garage would need to have a SD2 with which to carry out the resetting of the TCU.

I keep wondering if this is absolutely necessary, and if perhaps the TCU might 'self-learn' the parameters with the four-stop-start procedure.

Maybe some knowledgeable tech might chime in here with some well informed info.

 

Replace the throwout bearings. That's been advice I've heard.

 

Throwout bearing for sure, get a new F1 pump or rebuild it at the very least. It'll save you labor when it goes out down the road.

 

There are a series of steps required with the SD2 at time of clutch installation for proper operation and life. That applies to ALL 360's. If you have gone through 2 in 25k miles something is either wrong with the car or your usage. With appropriate usage and all the updates including one of the later software packages I have several customers that drive like they stole them and are on track to get well over 50k miles on a clutch.

P.S. Have heard of no good news coming from using wonder materials in F1's. As I said, stock parts work great and last a long time when installed properly and a few rules of use are observed.

 

Listen to Rifledriver-he is pretty much spot on here.

Add to it the following:

1.) Earlier 360's (Don't know cut off date.) had a 3 bolt ring gear on flywheel which is no longer available. Later cars have 6 bolt ring gears and you need new flywheel and ring gear if you have 3 bolt ring gear.

2.) Always put in latest t/o bearing as these cars have had a lot of issues with them.

3.) 2 clutches in 25k on an F1 is 2 too many. I have 22k on my 360 and was going to replace clutch as SD2 shows 90% wear. Pulled floor and inspection plate and visually checked clutch plates and measured wear and compared to new plates. Based on actual measurements clutch has 36% wear-not 90%

4.) Always have PIS set every 6 months or so. Sometimes this can really mess up things if set wrong.

5.) USe stock clutch (Valeo) or maybe an AP unit. I would not use a Kevlar unit as the chance of clutch slippage problems may start appearing on an F1 system. Need to investigate if any one has done this--

6.) Can you go to differing mechanic for new clutch install?

 

Brian,

That sounds very interesting. Could you elaborate on the 'floor and inspection plate' bit, and how you managed to measure the the plates?

I'd be very grateful for the information.

 

here is the man i was hoping would selfishlessly share his wisdom. thank you, brian. i guess i am good to go for another 40k miles after that, i am sending her out to you

 

thanks, brian. very useful info. can anyone find out the cut off date on the flywheel? mine 360 is 00

 

Sorry, yours is early and the ring gear is around $600.

You do not need a new flywheel because the ring gear bolts to the pressure plate. Flywheels are reused.

 

Sorry rifledriver-fingers faster than brain!

 

Brian - any useful tips on correct usage to avoid excessive wear? Thanks

 

Lots of info if you do a search. Short version. Avoid backing up as much as possible, esp uphill. Avoid stop and go as much as poss. Do not use engine to hold car on hill, that is what the brake is for. When the motor is cold the software is designed to slip the clutch more, let it warm up. Take off from stop slightly aggressively, hard to explain exactly. Very timid starts slip clutch for ever, too aggresive and clutch is slipped lots too. Find a middle ground. Never use the low grip switch.

Some car salesman somewhere during a product seminar was too busy reading the newspaper to listen and thought he heard that using auto mode was bad for the clutch. It is not. What he really heard is that low grip mode is bad. Auto mode uses the same clutch programming as man. mode but this wives tale has legs and many still preach it as holy gospel.

 

Thats OK.

Clutches are expensive enough, just trying to save the guy some money.

 

Thanks Brian. Didn't know that about auto mode being the same - thanks for clearing that up for me!

 

I have been getting the red failure light every once and a while...

 

What makes you think it is a pump? There are dozens of more likely possibilities.

Also most break downs requiring a tow were an owner ignoring the light. Remamber amber means check it out, red means quit driving, the car is broken.

 

Brian,

Your knowledge is simply amazing. Your altruism is even more astounding. Everyone of us is very fortunate to have you on this board. I thank you.

 

Thank you excellent information. Very helpful.

 

They replaced my clutch, and found out that my reverse switch was the problem... it was not snapping back after i put it in reserve, so it was sending an error to the F1 system... Was not the pump after all.

 

Good news/Bad news. That is not a cheap part either. Maybe it can be fixed.

Good luck.

 

How much can one expect to replace the clutch? I'm assuming most have it done at the dealer?