Derek's 308 engine rebuild

Ferrari uses the deck surface as a water jacket. That's why there's coolant migrating there, it's also why the studs corrode away when the gasket only holds back so much. Top of the liners have a step to seal the combustion chamber. Open deck and Siamese liners will have coolant moving right on thru.

 

Thanks Derek - this is helpful

 

Engine freshly rebuilt on 85 QV. Added nine quarts of oil and 16oz of Lucas break in additive. Poured as much oil as possible into the oil filter fitting. Plugs are out, coil wires disconnected, fuel pump fuses removed.

I cranked the engine seven times for thirty seconds but the oil pressure light hasn't gone out yet and there are not any reading yet on the gauge.

Please post any suggestions on getting it primed. Thank you

 

Regardless of the engine type I rebuild, I always put a tee-piece in the oil pressure fitting on the engine with an analogue (mechanical) pressure gauge. That way you have an instant reading taking away the possibility of other issues interfering! Might help the trouble shooting - here's hoping its only an indication issue

 

Tried to get oil pressure again yesterday. First I filled the oil cooler from the top - it didn't take much. I also filled the top hose which goes back to the oil filter housing. I then removed the bottom hose on the oil cooler and confirmed oil was coming out of the bottom - it was. So I plugged the bottom of the oil filter temporarily and filled the bottom hose that goes into the block - again, it did not take much oil. Then went up top, removed the oil filter and filled there. I cranked the car for 30 seconds two times and the red light did not go out nor did I see any pressure building on the gauge. I looked in the oil fill opening on the rear cam cover and don't think I saw oil by the cams. I removed the oil pressure relief valve to the left of the harmonic balancer and there was not evidence that oil was there (other than the oil and assembly lube that was applied upon re-assembly). I then removed the upper and lower hoses again from the oil cooler and there was oil both on the oil cooler side and in the hoses going to the oil filter housing and the side of the block. I tried cranking again for 30 seconds two times and still no sign of oil pressure based on the light or gauge.

I have about nine quarts of Castrol 20/50 and 16oz of Lucas break in additive in the crankcase now - someone suggested draining that and starting over using thinner oil so I am going to try that with 5w-30. I also ordered an M18*1.5 to 1/8NPT adapter and an analog gauge.

Is the use of a thinner weight oil a possible solution to prime the oil pump? What other methods should I consider?

 

Here is Australia, Penrite makes the below which is a specilised running-in oil. Not sure if they export and sell in other counties? I've never heard of oil viscosity causing oil pump priming issues, and your 20w/50 is not crazy heavy! Obviously ambient temp has an impact too. If its cold where you are at the moment you could try putting a small bar heater under the sump for a few hours to get the oil a little warmer or if possible a heat gun around the oil pump housing area? Just some ideas.

https://penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/RUNNING-IN%20OIL%2015W-40%20(Mineral).pdf

Hope that helps. BB

 

Some other things you might consider (but bear in mind I've never had my 308 engine in pieces!) so am only providing general information.

1. a gasket on the pump or filter housing possibly installed the wrong way blocking a passage?
2. an 'o' ring missing on the pump or pickup allowing oil to by-pass or air to be sucked in?
3. oil pump drive chain or tensioner not installed correctly?
4. woodruff key missing from oil pump drive gear?

From memory the owner's manual has a diagram showing the oil flow path, it might also be a good starting point for trouble shooting. Assuming it is not as simple as the pump not being able to prime.

One of the best design parts of the small block chevy is that you can prime the oil pump and entire engine using a power drill and adapter before start-up!!!

Cheers, BB

 

Thanks Brock - Here's a pic of the gasket for the oil pickup. Don't believe there is an o ring on the pump or pickup and no drive chain or tensioner on the pump (its gear driven). Woodruff key was present. Have the photo of the oil flow path - it's not 100% clear but offers some hints on the direction of oil flow...And agree 100% on the small block (and big block) chevy ease of priming - I have the tool and have done it on a few big block corvettes with a 1/2 drill - works like a charm

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