Detailing

Couple of general thoughts....

Use automotive products so no dishwashing soap. Use a good car washing soap.

Use microfiber towels- if you drop one, toss it because it will trap all kinds of debris.

If you encounter debris on your vehicle's finish, don't try to remove it via physical process (e.g., pushing harder). Let the soap/ chemicals do the work. Pushing harder will just leave scratches.

This also goes for drying, don't press hard on towels, just gently go over the surface to dry it- or you can use an air blower, some use those. I worry that debris could get in the air blower and then air blast the car so I use large micro fiber towels for drying the vehicle.

Work from the top down- keep an eye out for when the towel gets dirty. When it begins to show some dirt, move on to another towel.

As to a "wax", the simplest, safest, one I have found is Klasse All in One (its a red bottle). Just follow the directions.

 

Do you mean 'detail' or simply a proper 'cleaning technique'? Remember, most paint damage occurs when cleaning the car.

Detailing is much much more than cleaning and not to be undertaken without training.

Cleaning, never in direct sun - start with the wheels using a safe cleaner, spray on and jet off and then snow foam the car using a hyper wash, wash with twin bucket system with filters (clean water and soapy water), only use lambswool mitt and then in straight lines and no pressure, final rinse with de-ionised water to prevent drying marks, dry with deep pile micro fibre cloths using a simple lay and lift technique (no movement) and finally dry all difficult to reach areas with air blower. Voila!
Click my profile to see the pictures of my car being detailed, as I say, not to be undertaken without training.
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This is actually quite easy ... go to How To Properly Wash and Dry a Car | Ask a Pro Blog and look over their suggestions! Todd Cooperider really knows how to protect your paint, along with bringing out the very best in your paint.

Be VERY sure to throw away your California Duster! Those things destroy paint!

Quit drying your car with towels! Use an electric leaf blower or better than that buy the three bottle system from Deionizers | On The Go® which will give you totally spot free water! I wash my FF and Cali regularly but rinse with DI water letting it air dry overnight with zero spots, or blow it off with an electric leaf blower if I need to drive it before it drys.

Rick

 

Thanks Rick great link for detailing! Very useful. I saved the site.

 

Lots of good advice. The only thing I want to add is to make sure that your wheel cleaner does not contain silcone or that silcone products do not contact the rotors and pads. Safest practice is to wipe on, not spray on. Bad things can happen; I had to replace pads on our F430.

 

I prefer pure Brillo and sulfuric acid for that DeLorean look myself....

 

Or - stop by a single car "hands free" wash at a local gas station and bring a few microfiber towels with you. Takes about 7-10 minutes on your way to dinner. Unless concoursing a car, the car will be dirty as you drive away from your house. I have owned several Ferrari's for over 5 years each and never had a poroblem when selling. I have a 1981 Porsche Turbo since new which looks good too. If you like to work on the car that is one thing, if you simply want a clean car that is another. Best
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I have a mobile detailer come to my house once or twice a month, he does a great job and is well experienced, works on Bugattis, etc. $ 50 hand wash in and out.

 

I have a good mobile detailer that comes to my house but like to detail the car myself once a month, work on it for about 6 hours just using a damp microfiber towel, the engine bay takes the longest to clean, btw she is totally covered with 3m clearbra and front and back glass have protection film too, here are a few pics after a wash
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Lots of good detailing recommendations and procedures posted or linked above. Some additional thoughts:

1. Don't be afraid to do it yourself. You will learn things about your car that you didn't know. Some common sense will keep you and your car out of trouble.

2. Whatever you do, always wipe in straight lines. Forget the Karate Kid (wax on, wax off spirals).

3. There will be a small upfront investment for buckets (with grit guards), wash mitt, microfiber cloths, a chamois, decent cleaning solution, detailing solution, tire gel, etc. It is tolerable.

4. Most detailers now use sealants (synthetic wax) rather than wax. Sealants produce a nice "wet look," and are easier to apply and more durable than wax. On the other hand, wax has a deeper look. You can experiment and find what looks better to you on your car.

5. The rear of a 458 generally gets dirtier than the front. I think it has to do with the air flow from the diffusers.

6. Never, ever suggest to your wife that applying wax (i.e. Zymol) on your curvy car with your bare hands is a sensual experience. Please don't ask me how I know this....

 

Great advice here.

 

I especially agree with #6. Don't even think about it.

One other afterthought. I find that the synthetics last much better on the rear parts of the car where there is more heat. The rear of our F430 gets like a blast furnace and wax just evaporates. The 458 is not as bad but still warm. The natural engine heat added to the heat from a warm sunny day will take your wax. Keep that in mind when you choose a finishing wax or sealant.

PS I have begun to experiment with Sonax Polymer Net Shield http://www.autogeek.net/sonax-polymer-net-shield.html a high tech sealant in aerosol form. It gives a lot of extra pop to a finish. Now to see about longevity ....

 

Great info so far. I have a master blaster motorcycle air dryer that I use after I get home from work since I have to park in a very dusty parkade. I just blow off the light layer of dust that invariably collects on a clean car due to entropy. I also keep a clean microfibre towel in the glove box that is handy for keeping the carpets clean.

 

The only thing I would add is most caruba waxes will give you a warmer, deeper look. Most synthetic products give you more pop. If you are doing a bright red sports car, I think going for the pop is the way to go. If your car is grigio you might prefer the warmer look. You can also do the synthetic and then apply a wax on top of it later....

 

I wonder if it matters which you put on first.

 

All of the detailing sites say that you are supposed to put on the sealant before the wax. They report that the wax will bond to the sealant, but not vice versa.

 

Yes, you should put the sealant down first. After you have applied it and wiped it off you need to wait about 12 before you apply the top coat of carnauba wax. This will give the synthetic wax time to bond to the paint.

 

Thanks to SKi Bum and flash_e