Did not pass CA Smog...need assistance

Which screw are you adjusting? If it is the 3mm allen screw on the air flow meter, then 1 full turn is a huge adjustment. I wouldn't even expect it to run after that. You turn the mixture adjustment screw counterclockwise to lean it out.

The large hex screw on the intake plumbing is an air bypass, and is used only to adjust idle speed. It has little to no effect on fuel mixture. To lower idle speed you turn it clockwise.

I would read up on K-jetronic fuel injection, before you make any more adjustments. It would also help to have an exhaust gas analyzer in order to make sure that you adjust it correctly.

Brian

 

If I were in your situation, I would get a colortune plug to adjust the mixture. International Auto Parts has them for about $60.

 

Randy - I know it's a bit late now, but always, ALWAYS, do a pre-test.

Some shops do it, some don't. It's always wiser to ask first and if they won't, find another place (we go to a place in Sunnyvale that will pre-test for an extra $20). Pre-testing allows you to know if you have a fighting chance of passing, and saves you an entry into the state's database of having one or more "FAIL" reports on your car. Sucks when you get those on your Carfax report later, too.

As for how to adjust your mixture, I'm afraid I can't help there. I'm more of an EFI sort of guy, however I'm sure you'll get lots of good technical help here.

 

hey randy,

the fuel mixture adjustment is done through a small hole in the top of the fuel distributor. You have to remove a plug and use an allen wrench to turn a screw a tiny amount to vary the mixture. Remove the wrench and cover the hole when looking at readings, and don't rev the engine with the wrench in.

your car doesn't have lambda, so you can't use the output of an O2 sensor to see the mixture. I've never seen a colortune...be curious how well it works.

othr possible problems would be:

1] WUR not adjusting the control pressure correctly
2] leaking or always on cold start injector
3] one cylinder not firing
4] one or both cats too cold or no longer effective. It helps to really run the car hard right before the test to get the cat temps up

I have a handheld exhaust "leak detector" which measures CO in ppm. I guess it could be used to sniff the exhaust while turning the mixture screw a little to lower the CO. Exhaust could be checked at tailpipe or better at the sample tubes, if they aren't plugged up. I also have the fuel pressure gauge needed to test the WUR.

gimme a call or pm me if you want to stop by and fiddle around. I'm up 280 just west of palo alto.

another option is to find any shop that works on CIS cars. volvo and vw are likely candidates. All you need is a shop that has a gas analyzer and a guy that knows how to turn the adjust screw, or find a smog place that will stick their probe in your tailpipe (hmm...that coulda been phrased better) and let you adjust the screw yourself. I think someone said you'd need to turn CCW to lean the mixture, and you'd only need to nudge it a bit to get below the limit.

 

No more guys out there who charge $40 for the test and a $100 for a "tuneup"?.....