Dim dash lights in BB512 - any solution?

I have always felt it is the dimmer switch. You have two choices. Either wire through it or do as one of the Dino owners have done. See a very interesting article below:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=100210&highlight=dino+saga+dimmer


Drew

 

This might be of interest:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?t=7524&highlight=led+lights

 

Bypassing the dimmer will usually result in a slight improvement and there is no downside. If there is a heat source it is the badly made rheostat, not the lack of one. Higher output bulbs have caused heat damage to the instruments so I would be careful there.


Another thing to consider. BB's have always been real borderline in the electrical department. So much so that many perfectly good ignition boxes get replaced because the alternator is not up to snuff. When everthing is perfect the alternator is just keeping up. Idling at an intersection for example with a turn signal on you can often hear the engine miss in time with the turn signals. That is why on the BBi they went to a dual alternator set up.

Might want to check into it.

 

You might want to consider replacing your incandescent instrument bulbs with LEDs. They should last longer than you'll own your car and they are very energy efficient while giving off more light.

Check out http://www.ledtronics.com/markets/minbas_index.htm and see if they have something which meets your needs. I spoke with one of their sales guys and he was very knowledgeable.

Let us know if you take the plunge.

...Keith

 

Are these LEDs dimmable?

 

Not sure if they are dimmable. Give'em a call and let us know what you discover. They have data sheets on the site with some info.

...Keith

 

I replaced all of the bulbs in my BB with higher wattage items, big improvement and very simple on a BB!

Ditto Rifledriver's comments on BB electrics....

 

I'm not very electrically savvy but I understand that LEDs draw less electricity than incandescent bulbs. With the alternator issues noted above, perhaps that is yet another reason to replace existing instrument bulbs with LEDs.

 

As mentioned, the simplest solution is to disconnect the two leads going to the rheostat and connect them together. This removes any resistance that might reduce the voltage (and subsequent current) to the bulbs.

The brightness of the LEDs are adjustable using a rheostat. However, this is not the "proper" way to accomplish the task. Below a certain level, the LED will turn off completely (forward bias voltage approximately .6 - .9 volts).

The proper way is to adjust the duty cycle, that is, the percentage of time that voltage is applied. This can be done with simple circuitry, but may be more trouble than it is worth. This also reduces the current required to illuminate the gauges, which is a non-issue. At 30 cycles/second the eye smooths on-off transitions such that it appears to be on continuously. If during each cycle the percentage of time is increased, the LED appears brighter.

Jim S.

 

I had the rheostat frozen, helped a little bit. Assuming I know I have plenty of fuel, all I look at is the oil pressure, water and oil temp gauges. Unless I have White Snake up full blast, then I have to look at the tach.

I carry a small flashlight to look at the important gauges at stop lights.

 

My lights suck as well as do the 308 lights. The common fix on the 308 is the rheostat bypass, its not like they will be too bright that you ever have to turn them down so bypass it and be done with it. Simple and free.