Does anyone know where the brake light switch is on a '74 Dino 246 GTS? My brake lights don't work. Fuses are all fine, but strangely enough the circuit that handles the brake light also handles the auxiliary heater fan on the dash, which also stopped working. Bulbs are all fine, turn signals and taillights all work. Can't figure out if this is a coincidence or a problem with the whole circuit, or a bad brake switch/loose wire somewhere. Anyone have any ideas where to start? Local dealer can't get me in for 3 weeks. Thanks
Brake switch is just below and behind brake pedal pivot. Remove plastic shield behind spare tire to get at brake and clutch pedals along with associated linkage and hardware.
We have stock of the brake light switch (number 20 in picture) and could ship to you tomorrow, so you could have it by the weekend - cost £4.60 (GBP)plus shipping. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks to both of you. I'm going to remove the plastic shield now and have a look. Ferrari_UK: Where can I get a set of these mechanical drawings for the Dino? I have the repair and workshop manual that was printed up years ago by Ferrari Atlanta, but they have no schematics like these. In fact there is no schematic at all that looks like yours. I'll let you know as soon as i get a look whether I need a new switch. Do you have a parts catalogue for the Dino? What is your website address?
Solly - that schematic is out of the standard parts book for the Dino. Malcom - U.K. - can you provide the rubber boot that sits between the vacuum assist unit and the brake petal actuator arm? It is found on your diagram between item #11 and item #17 (pin). Thanks. Jim S.
Rather than start a new thread, let me revive this one. My brake lights are out. Interestingly, so is my Radio. Can't find a blown fuse, anywhere. Don't see any loose wires, but, obviously something is awry. Checked the brake switch, all seems ok, but how would I know anyway? Is there a circuit I can test? And why the hell is the radio out too? No loose wires at the fuseblock, either. The brake wire appears attached and well connected. Checked the bulbs, they're good. Can't seem to trace a ground for the lights, but I know it's there somewhere. any hints, clues, ideas, wild ass guesses would be appreciated at this point. Dave M.
Ok, more investigation. Can't be the ground, the taillights (for the headlights) work and they are on the same bulb/ground.. So has to be a busted wire or bad switch, right? Oh joy. DM
DM - Radio and brake lights are on different circuits. Likely that you have two things not working. If you can get your hands up under the front where the brake light switch is (activated mechanically by the brake pedal), then remove the two female spade connectors and touch them together. The brake lights should illuminate. If, after connecting these two wires together you do not illuminate your brake lights, then it is not the switch. My switch failed, and I rebuilt the switch by removing and examining. Not too diffcult. Furthermore, it may be the "height" that the switch is positioned. There is a long threaded screw that moves the switch relative to the brake pedal. It is possible that when depressing the pedal you are not depressing the switch actuating-rod sufficiently. Again, touching the two wires together should light the brake bulbs. If this does not help, then remove the fuse and clean the contacts. Better yet, create a short across the fuse with an alligator jumper (Radio Shack part number ???XX??). The lights should illuminate. If not, you are in deep stuff. Jim S.
Shorted the fuse, shorted the switch, NADA!!! CRAP... Would it just be easier to pull new wires?? gotta go decode the wiring diagram, but it looks like that's what is going to need to happen. It's probably the hot lead, not the ground. That would make the most sense. The switch closes the hot feed, right? Those have to run under the dash somewhere, and since I just had the dash out, it seems to me that this is a very likely place to look. DM
To All, After 30+ years, the tin coating on the push-on connectors gives up. At least for a while. Pull all push-ons, spray with WD-40 and put back where they came from. Amazing what can happen. Works also on "guaranteed original grounds." Old ring tongue terminals have corroded and really need opening up, lubrication and re-tightening. Tail lights are notorious for this problem. My stuff all works after 35 years except for tail running lights. Had to run new line from ground to left light assy. Never could find the break and gave up trying. Lighting problems are not too difficult if you have a voltmeter and a straight pin to pierce the insulation any where you probe. No magic involved. Luck! John
John. All the contacts are clean. I even applied some stabilant 22 contact cleaner to all of them. I haven't checked continuity on the wiring yet, but that's next. Unfortunately, I'm also in the midst of preparing my house for sale, while trying to prep the car for the FCA PA-NJ concours. Might just have to hand this one over to the experts. DM
I had a multi-month ordeal on a similar topic when I bought Dino number two, nearly drove me crazy. It was slightly different in that only one of my brake lights failed and sometimes would blow a fuse. It turns out that the wiring had been frayed as it goes through the passenger side front wheel well through the rocker panel under the door and back to the rear wheel well. Best luck.
