Dino 246 brakes

Dino 246gts rhd.
Can anyone help?
I have spent countless hours on trying to bleed the brakes on my 246.
The braking system has been totally restored, (new brake lines, calipers rebuilt, master cylinder rebuilt etc).
I can get the rear discs to lock up but only when the the pedal is pumped a few times.
But the pedal is always down to the floor!!
Which diagram is correct??
At the moment I have the pipework is arranged so the fronts come on before the rears.
Have I got the layout wrong?
Diagrams attached.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
James.
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brake compesator has the air inside as new spring is strong making seal is stuck. I saw OMG had this while back

Get two vaccuum handed pumps and pull both rear brake fluid bleeds at same time to overcome stuck or new spring in brake compesator

 

Sergio,
Thanks for reply.
Will keep you posted.

 

As mentioned above the brake reducer valve #5 is most likely air filled. You can disconnect the lines and pre-fill the valve body with hydraulic brake fluid using a syringe or similar. Reconnect the lines and bled the system conventionally and here you go....

Best regards

Peter

 

Some excellent advice here but I will also add that it is CRITICAL to bench bleed the master cylinder. If the system was fully re-built you can run gallons of fluid through the system and still have a soft pedal. Here is a video showing how to do it on a 308 and it is near enough the same for a 246:

 

I had a problem with a soft pedal after I rebuilt front calipers. The new caliper seal was pulling the piston back when I let off the brake pedal.. When I applied the brakes there was travel to get the pad to the rotor. I ended up manually pushing the piston and pad to the rotor. I then power bled the system and it was good.

 

The guy in the video does not explain why its difficult to get all the air out with conventional bleeding, so without that explanation how am I supposed to believe what he says. I spoke to nick cartwright specialist cars in the UK and he said they do not encounter problems in conventional bleeding.

 

I've just blead the brakes on my 246 after changing out the hoses between the reservoirs and the master cylinder , as they had perished from the inside ,after bleeding the calipers front and rear as normal .
The tip earlier on this page regarding the rear brake reducer value was good , I was using a pressure bleeder , so I cracked the rear dividing block , this seems to be at the highest point in the rear of the car , under pressure , bubbles appeared to come out .
Bleeding the front and rear , the pedal still slowing went to the floor .
I started the car , with the brake booster working , the pedal went to the floor first pump , second pump I had a pedal another couple for good measure.
Bleed the rear again from the caliper's , got lots of air out ,
Bleed the front again , got a small amount of air out .
now the pedal is the best it's ever been , happy days !

 

I love a happy ending.