Dino 246 Upright Bearing Removal

Here is a pic for the service manual..maybe this will help out
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308 and 246 are near identical.

early GT/4 even has the cast iron uprights of a 246, while most GT/4 and all 308 have an alloy unit, they're exactly the same method.

Series 1 246 and 206 have an external large nut (36mm?), but it does little, you don't even need to undo it, it's just where the hub flange is made as a seperate part to the shaft, later cars have it as one integral shaft.

Series 1 cars also have a better hub seal, but then unsealed bearings inside. The seal is not good enough so simply order sealed bearings if yours is one of these, and have double the protection!!

I just did a Series 1 rear bearing job, but the reason was that the internal ring nut was loose. It's a tricky job and you'll need the proper tool to do it tight enough, you may also need to machine/replace the spacer if they've been loose for a while.

 

There's no need to move the big circlip.

The spacer will just move over if you give it a tap with a soft punch. Brass or Alloy is ok.

Then, just confidently hammer the inner bearing out from the other side. You're changing it anyway, but you won't do any real damage if you use a big hammer and big punch, and only hit it hard a few times, not tickling it 1000 times!!


For assembly, do it in a press to avoid the shock loads going into the bearing. Once fully assembled, hammer it (soft hammer) from each side to "settle" it all, and it'll run smooth as silk.

 

Don't do it. Bearings are quite cheap (about AUD$250 for all 4 including the 2 seals too), there's referance numbers on them and you can get them from any local bearing supplier.

Also, as I said way back, you can specify modern ones with integral seals which you can fit and forget forever (within reason).

 

Old thread but looking for the stub axle nut torque for the upright. Cannot find it anywhere. Thanks!