Dino clutch cable

Hi, Jim - I worked for Teleflex, the company that did the original development on the cable. Actually, it's called a ball bearing control and is a linear ball bearing, with 1.5 MM diameter balls on each side of the ribbon. They ride in the groove. There is also a stamped separator to act as a cage. It is designed to operate in tension or compression. If you remove the ribbon, chances are it will not go back in.
The best thing to do is flush as much WD-40 through it as possible. If there is contamination, the WD should remove it. You can make an adapter with some tubing or hose and the just pump the WD trhought untill it comes out clean. Move the ribbon back and forth as you flush it. After cleaning, flush it with ATF. It should move with a silky-smooth movement. If not, the corrosion may have damaged the inner balls or the cage.
If unsalvageable, I believe it can be replaced with one made as a regular stainless steel cable.
Bob Z.

 

Rutland's and McCann have these cables available if yours is not salvageable.

 

Use Tri-Flow or another modern lubricant as it is far superior to WD-40.

My cable was slightly sticky and a few drops thoroughly improved the action.

 

I agree - Tri-Flow is one of the best all around lubricants you can buy but if things are really dirty, the WD-40 works better since it has a stronger solvent. Also, the Tri-Flow is an outstanding product for SLIDING surfaces. Remember, the Dino cable is a rolling friction device. That's why the ATF works quite well.
Bob Z.
By the way, Tri-Flow is perfect for seat rails and window channels.

 

Hi, Jim - ball retention depends on the method of manufacture. Many of the ones I've seen will come apart once the center member is removed. Unfortunately, you cannot insert a standard cable into the BB control housing. You must purchase a complete assembly - as far as I know, the replacements are regular cable and work very well.
Once again, I do not recommend disassemly.
Bob Z.

 

Great info Bob, Keep it coming.

 

About ten years ago I had my cable stick and tried to take it apart. Apart was difficult. Back together, impossible. Balls and ball retainers are integral mates and there are two of them on each side of the push/pull flexure. Putting it together requires sliding the balls and you need new everything and factory tooling to do it easily.

If there is dirt and corrosion in there, try forcing a lubricant through and see what happens. Minor corrosion you can live with. Square balls and dirt you can not. If you take it apart the chances of getting all back together is nil. It is not dificult or very expensive to change if you do your own work. That is what I did. Just take apart everything in the way and go slowly.

Make sure that you get the length right (adjust multiple nuts on both ends) and the helper spring aligned just per the book. There is not a sweeter clutch than that in a properly set-up Dino.

Good luck,
John

 

I have only lubricated the cable from the cable opening in the front of the car.
Do other owners lubricate it from the rear of the car also?
or is the normal cable movement action enough to spread the lubricant that is only placed in from the front?

 

You really want to flush the cable from one end to the other. Water and dirt work to the low point. Both ends are high. Front end is highest. Work from front with plastic tubing, WD-40 or ???, and blow it through with some air. When liquid comes out the back, you are there.
Flex ribbon, balls and separators only move a little bit so there is no such thing as working lube through by cycling.
Don't take it apart!
Luck,
John