Dino Cooling issues

I'd start by checking to make sure both cooling fans run when the temp hits 195.

Also, might be a very good ideal to re-bleed the system. Air bubbles get caught easily at the infeed at the water pump, and also along the very long hoses to the front radiators.

I'm running anitfreeze, water and water wetter. I did not notice an appreciable change in temp when I switched.

I was on a long spirited run this weekend, that ended in some stop and go, but temp never got above 195 on the water. Oil did heat up about an extra 10 degrees or so, but not more than that.

 

I have had only two problems with my cooling system in 19 years and now up to 184,000 miles. One fan motor died. I replaced it with an aftermarket fan motor that had same OD, was a little shorter and had just enough shaft. Can't remember whether from NAPA or Pep Boys. OK after 12+ years.

Second problem was a bad thermostat. The car would sometimes overheat, then be fine for months. Turns out that the thermostat would not open all the way and finally stuck almost closed in Las Vegas. I was able to pull the thermostat and get back to Santa Barbara with way too much cooling. New thermostat has been fine for about 5 years.

I run 50-50 antifreeze and water just to get the anti-corrosion protection. Hope this helps.
John

 

Last post talked about cooling problems assuming water pump and lines were OK. I consider water pump as an engine problem. Have had to replace pump bearings, seal, etc. every 30,000+ miles. Pump problems normally involve massive amounts of cooling coming out and ruining paint and (especially) clear coats. Fix at first sign of problems!

Turns out to be a trivial problem to fix in most cases. Depending on the detail failure mode, buy the seal or buy the seal plus the shaft-bearing assembly. The impeller should last forever if you get it off the shaft in one piece.
You can press the impeller shaft out with a common 18mm bolt and some grease.

There is virtually no way to support the impeller in a press without destroying it. Particularly if it is in the waterpump housing and the bearing OD is giving you a hard time releasing from the housing.

Hold impeller in vise, fill small cavity in back of impeller with grease and turn 18mm bolt into back of impeller. Comes right off.

Pull water seal out with pliers. Replace with new seal (very carefully, no pliers, lots of lube). Lube shaft and impeller. Press back together carefully so that impeller clearance is per specs or a little more. A standard C press or a 1/2" drill press has worked. If you go too far, get the 18mm bolt out and open things back up.

If you have to remove shaft/bearing from the housing, better get help. It usually takes heat and a serious press to keep everything exactly in line. Assume that shaft and bearing will be destroyed. Save the housing!

Funny, the new bearing goes into the housing with finger pressure and the locking screw needs LocTite. Oh Well.

Again, hope this helps.

John

 

By temperature reacted the same way as that of the first poster-I'm going to add water wetter and see if it helps-my fans did not go on until it was about 220-do I need to replace the fan thermostat at the bottom of the radiator? Is this difficult? Thanks in advance.

 

Not too difficult, and not too expensive.

PM me if you'd like detailed instructions.

Dave

 

the foam that goes around the radiator also seems to help channel the air where it needs to go. if missing, replace it.

 

Good point.

Foam can be purchased from Ferrari for about $80+-, or at any home depot for about $1.98.

It's the foam they sell to insulate around air conditioners.
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If the Thermostat fan switch is the same that is used in the 308 radiator you could switch it to one that turns the fans on at 180 degree's rather then 195.

This link will give you all the info as the switch is used in a VW.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/256120/303905.html?1061151512

 

Anti freez doesn't really help cooling either. Try using filtered water and water wetter. You can add a bottle of water pump lubricant as an option. This remedy works in California, but the northeast...

Valve clearance being on the tighter side, though may improve performance, would impact cooling adversely.

john

 

I have some of the same behaviour. When I am moving, even in hot weather, the water temp needle is just to the left of 195. But standing still at the light, the temp does climb into the low 200s. At those 200+ water temps, both fans are running, and I can feel the hot air coming thru the radiator.

Seems like the concensus is that if a Dino has this problem, it's probably the thermostat valves not opening all the way?

 

This morning, drove 50 miles in about 80 degree weather-temp was perfect. This afternoon, drove back in 92 degrees, and water temp 220, even at 70 on the highway. This can't be a cooling fan issue-possibly a sticking thermostat? Any ideas-already using Water wetter-thanks-Scot

 

Thermostat.

Air bubble.

Bad water pump.

Can take the thermostat out to test it. Pot of water and a thermometer.

Heat the water, watch the thermostat.

Air bubbles form at the thermostat infeed hose, burp it with a slim screwdriver with the engine hot, that'll sometimes fix it.

Bleed the system thoughly, fromt and rear, to eliminate any other trapped air.

Gotta let the coolant run for a while out the bleeder valves to amke sure it's water without air.

Other than that, could be bad radiator too. flush it?

 

My car has no foam seal on the underside of the hood, so the air might be going above the radiator instead of through it (radiator looks recently rebuilt and in great shape). Unrestored A/C condenser in front of radiator also may be impeding airflow. Could this be the problem?

 

My Dino never had foam above radiator. Had US air conditioning. AC condenser is aluminum and fans had hit it and folded many fins over. I moved fans forward, cut fan dia. down so did not hit chin piece after being bumped up by speed bumps. Took about 1/2" off radius of fan blades and made sure balance was dead on. Straightened fins on condenser.

That was better. Still got hot on some days but was fine for then. I had removed compressor years before since AC was not worth anything in SB. Access to engine was more important. Had been too lazy to remove condenser and Freon lines. Finally removed condenser and everything having to do with AC except parts buried in front of ladies seat (I know I will get flak but the Dino was designed for a guy and a gal to have a weekend of fun; at speed; no more, no less). Did not worry about air going above or around radiator.

Cooling is fine no matter what the temp. At least on trips from SB to Las Vegas any time of year. I moved fans back so that they are about 1/2" in front of radiator. Probably where designers wanted them in the first place.

Maybe they got it right the first time!

John

 

Rebuilt pumps are almost $1400.00 USD
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rebuilt-Water-Pump-For-The-Ferrari-Dino-246-GT-GTS_W0QQitemZ200044792849QQihZ010QQcategoryZ33604QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Ouch!

 

My foam was shot, bought some off dm_n_stuff, and it dropped my "normal running" temperature noticeably. From just a hair below 195 to 2/3 - 3/4 of the way up. The Home Depot stuff works great, even includes the right width double face tape. The hardest / messiest part was cleaning off the old foam residue. Stands to reason; without the foam, there's nothing to prevent the air from taking the path of least resistance - over the radiator (rather than through it).

 

Congratulations!

 

Did you have it recored locally or send it out? If out, who to? Thanks