Fantastic work! Thanks for posting these photos and documenting the process. I'm pm'ing Rob to recommend this as Thread of the Month (he can't be everywhere at once!) 01832 is a contender for the Preservation Award - wonderful effort you're undertaking! Many, but I'm not sure all are possible..
Tom, I just read the assembly book, and translated in a simplified version(by yrs trly) it reads as follows: "Assemble pistons with their individual connecting rods according to the diagram in fig 8 so that the exhaust valve indentation on the piston top points to the outside part of the engine block and the numbers stamped on the connecting rod and its bearing cap". 1. Assemble pistons to the rods... 2...exhaust notch in piston to be pointing to the exterior of block... 3. ...said notch, towards the numbers stamped on the rod & cap. Torque to 7,5 KGM (dry). Figure 8 is very clear to these instructions. Mains, 11KGM (dry) Nowhere in the book does it say to lube any fastener that will be torqued. Clearly, lubing or not, is of different preference to engine builders. Personally, I don't lube threads, I lube under the shoulder of the nut with an anti-seize to prevent galling, again a matter of preference. I also, at times, use ARP bolts, which are measured for "stretch" not by torque values. Take a look at "ARP fasteners"website, at their recommendations on this subject: "Installation and Other Factors Appropriate preloads are specified for each ARP bolt. These preloads can be attained in a connecting rod by applying proper torque using a torque wrench or by measuring the amount of stretch in the bolt using a stretch gauge (it is known that a bolt stretches in proportion to the tension in it). The torque method is sometimes inaccurate because of the uncertainty in the coefficient of friction at the interface between the bolt and the rod. This inaccuracy can be minimized by using the lubricant supplied by ARP. Other factors, equally as important as design, include material selection, verification testing, processing, and quality control. These aspects of bolt manufacturing are discussed elsewhere in this document. The foregoing discussion concentrated on the design of bolts. The same considerations apply in the design of studs." I would replace rod bolts with new ones. Have your torque wrench checked by Snap-on or similar. I do not mean to imply anything, but I would only use a "top of the line" torque wrench, or possibly, use torque angles. Regards, Alberto
champtc, I have been watching your thread know sence I was introuce to Ferrarichat by dinorestoration (Jon & his son Jeff) As you may know I am the gentlemen that is responsible for the resurfacing and painting of there latest Dino project. If there is anything that i can help you with in the regards of your Dino refurbishment... please don't hesitate to call with any questions. Keep the great work up and don't lose your steam! post lots of photo's .we all like looking at them. Best regards Steve
Hello Steve, Since I saw your post about your most kind offer to help Tom with his great restoration, I am hoping that you might be as generous with me, albeit I cannot send my car to you for your great work... I am restoring a Dino in El Salvador, and as you may understand we are somewhat short of resources. My car's original color is Azzurro Metalizzato, which I believe is the color you just used on Jon's car. Locally, nobody has the formula or the reference for such an old car. I will be in California for a few days and I would like to get a sample of that color and of the satin black to have it matched at here. Can you help? Of course, I will gladly pay for your troubles. Thank you. Regards, Alberto
Great read. I'll be dipping into this thread from time to time to monitor the progress. It's lovely to see work like this being undertaken - well done and keep it up!
well _ i had all six of the pistons in the block today . However on #4 & #5 we had to trim the oil scraper ring ( the accordian/waffle looking one) just a bit to get it into the cylinders. However none of the other 4 cylinders required trimming that ring so we pulled #4 & #5 back out and I will ask Arias Pistons for new rings to try it again. I just did not feel right having 2 of 6 pistons having the oil scraper ring trimmed and thought maybe they were the wrong size. Most likely I am being paranoid but I know that it would drive me nuts if I didnt re- do them. Clearly it is easier to attend to this now than worry about it later! I will post pics soon...
pics as promised... That is Ray O'Brien of Storm Crank in Mt Vernon Ny at work- on a Saturday morning no less!!!!! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
It has been a while since I have posted on my project. I have installed all the pistons and the troublesome oil scraper rings on 2 cylinders were replaced with new ones. We had no problem installing those. I am not sure what the deal was with the other 2 but for 12 bucks I was happy to replace em and not worry about them. I moved onto putting the cam sprockets and crank gear on. I had to really pay attention to my photos from taking the engine apart (what did we do before digital cameras) and to take a careful look at Jons pics to get them on right- glad you are back! The gear on the #4,5,6 cylinder bank has the flange pointing outward ( closest to the water pump) with the chain sprocket in front of the gear and the #1,2,3 cylinder bank has the flange on the gear pointing inward toward the block with the chain sprocket behind(closest to the block). The main nut on the shaft of each gear and chain sprocket was permatext (red) thread locked and torqued to 58 ft/lbs. The chain gear bridge (not sure what you call it but is in following pictures) was installed & bolts torqued to 19 ft/lbs and permatextd. Unfortunately the upper left bolt stripped but clever Jim Selevan told me to put a 8mm header stud in so the shoulder abutted the block & try that. It worked! I put the heads on without too much problem. I did try to "metal black" the head nuts with the Eastwood kit that I bought myself for Christmas and despite doing it twice and reading the directions about 10x it didn't work. So I semi gloss painted them & stuck them in the oven for 1/2 hour and they look pretty good. I am having doubts about this "do it yourself" metal finishing stuff. I bought a Caswell cadmium plating kit which I have not used yet but I am also doubtful. In any case I torqued the heads according to the pattern in the book at 1/2 torque 29 ft/lbs and waited 24 hours and torqued them to the full 58ftlbs. I then came back 24 hours later and rechecked the torque and was surprised that they needed still a little more before the torque wrench clicked. They must have to settle in. I think you have to double and triple check these torque settings after letting them sit for a day or two- we did on the crank & rod mains too. The last picture here is my badly scored front casing which was caused by the water pump impeller. I had it welded (aluminum i think) but I am concerned that the weld will hit the impeller once the new water pump is put on. So I have to take it to a shop to see if they can machine it flat. I will then install the water pump and oil pump gear (on back of casing) and install to the front of the block. So it is moving along. Slowly but having fun. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Nice progress, keep up the good work. 1) What brand of piston rings did you get and where did you buy them? 2) How did you remove the timing chain idler sprocket bearings (under the bridge)? My slide hammer isn't getting a good grip. Appreciate the help Image Unavailable, Please Login
It's great to see your pictures. You're making some good progress. I think I'll rest for a week or two for you to catch up. I need to follow you!
Champtc, Excuse me for interupting your interesting thread with a none Dino picture, but it may be of use for those head torquing. A tip I picked up from working on other aluminium engines is to torque the head down in stages, then after the last stage, use a space heater to gently and uniformly warm the block and head up. After an hour or so, switch off and let it cool to room temperature and then moveing around each head stud, back off 1/4 turn and re-torque. I guess you could fill the jacket with water to further simulate operating conditions. When I did my Dino heads (previous thread) I used a large elactric fan and left it pointing at the block over night. In the photo I hired the space heater to the job. Another advantage is a nice warm work shop for the day. Keep going and think of those Dino engine sounds on first start up, they will drown out the anxious heart thumps. Kevin Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well- let me see if I can answer some questions. Jon we started the cars at the same time and you are about a week from having it nearly put together! You will be on your 5th Dino before I am finished with this one! Re the bearing puller- one of the best deals going is the blind hole puller kit from Harbor Freight. You cant spend a better 39 bucks! I inserted new bearings for the chain gears and it seemed to me that one of them was binding so I had to pull the bearing out (thats why I know about the Harbor Freight deal) and it came out easily. In any case I put a new bearing in- same way I did with the other one - carefully. So i spun it and it felt the same way as the old one like it had a slight bump or burr in it. Maybe it was just me - not sure. It seemed to spin fine withe gear on and I probably didn't need to replace it with another new one but sleep at night factor prevails in most of these decisions! Kevin I will try the heat up & retorque trick and see if it works. It seems to be worth a try. Why not?! More to come...
Scott- I forgot - the pistons are Arias and they supplied the rings as well. The second set of oil scraper rings(only needed to replace two of em) worked just fine.
Well-I have been moving very slowly. I finally got the correct sized front oil seal(58mm) and attached my front plate along with new water pump to the engine. I have to attach the crank pulley next (and yes I am leaving it neutral balanced after much discussion). It is a snug fit and I guess I will have to heat it up in the oven or with a propane torch - hot enough to expand it but not so hot to melt the oil seal. I guess 120 degrees or so? In any cse that is next and then onto the cams. If you will recall Jon & I started about the same time. I think his car is about done & my body guy will take my rolling shell next week- a likely story!! Image Unavailable, Please Login
You most likely will catch up. I've done no work for the last month as I have been preparing my body for a cross country cycling trip. I leave June 6th from San Fransisco and 52 days later hope to be in Maine. 3,900 miles.
Tom - remember that when the engine is upside down, and you place the oil-pan-plate with baffle on the base of the engine, gravity will pull the baffle doors open in the wrong position. Once you secure it to the engine base, you will not be able to lower the baffle doors because the sump pickup will get in the way. Make sure that you hold the baffle doors in the correct position when lowering the pan onto the block (upside down). Kevin - yours is a good idea of heating the engine during torquing. What I have done is to torque the engine out of the car, connect hoses and electrics, and run the engine either on the floor or on a bench (stand). I do this for 10 hot-cold cycles or so, then re-torque the heads and adjust valve shims. Then she is good to go when placing back in the car. Allows for tuning of the carbs and timing, checking for leaks, other catastrophic issues, and final valve shim and torque settings. The latter two are back-breaking when the engine sits in the car. Jim S.
Do you ever do anything at anything less than 10,000,000 pct?? Bike across country?? Let me know when you pass ol' Forrest Gump! Be careful and safe!
Sorry, I usually post in "Vintage", so haven't run across this great thread before. I note some comments about rust, and thought you might get a chuckle from this visual depiction of why these cars rust: the start life that way! (Taken 1971 at Scaglietti). Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
they started with Russian steel, the rot had already set in...it does hurt to think about it though. it's almost as if they did not care about their product
Man I wouldn't want a chassis built in late July. Italy basically shuts her doors the entire month of August making that poor chassis sit through who knows what for far too long
