Dino DIY - Water pump removal USA car with A/C | FerrariChat

Dino DIY - Water pump removal USA car with A/C

Discussion in '206/246' started by synchro, Feb 19, 2008.

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  1. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    #1 synchro, Feb 19, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I'm changing the waterpump in my USA car which also has A/C and wanted to share some photos.


    Remove the Right Rear inner fender splash panel to gain access to the area
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  2. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    #2 synchro, Feb 19, 2008
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  3. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    #3 synchro, Feb 19, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Using a 14mm socket/wrench remove the three bolts that mount the heat exchanger flange to the A/C compressor,
    allowing you to flex the heat exchanger so that a path can be made to pass the water pump through
    (Note: I'm not removing the thermostat housing and attached hoses as I believe I'll be able to pass these out also)
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  4. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    #4 synchro, Feb 19, 2008
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  5. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    #5 synchro, Feb 19, 2008
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  6. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    #6 synchro, Feb 19, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Now the waterpump is free and easily slides out, away from the block
    BUT it is stopped at the crankshaft drive pulley - there is interference between the lower lip of the pump that has not cleared the 3 studs yet and the rear edge of the crankshaft drive pulley.
    **see the area in the photo between the bottom two, center mounting holes, this is the area that strikes the crankshaft pulley's rear edge**

    Does any one have some suggestions on this? I've felt around for a cutout or recessed area but there is none. The waterpump has nearly cleared the mounting studs - I can't undertsand why cap bolts weren't used in this area

    The only options that I see are:
    1) remove the cranksaft drive pulley - looks like a 30mm (or larger) deep socket is required
    2) remove the three studs at the lower end of the water pump

    Neither of these tasks are attractive, but I realize I'm living in Dino-land and stranger things have been required...
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  7. UroTrash

    UroTrash Four Time F1 World Champ
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    Crankshaft pulley bolt doesn't look like it would relinquish its long-time resting spot without a struggle!
     
  8. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
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    #8 2NA, Feb 19, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Double-nut the studs and unscrew them (might need to make some real thin jam nuts for this). I'm not sure you will get the pump out even then because of interference from the impeller.

    To remove the crank pulley you will likely need to machine down a socket to fit in the tight recess.

    This is one I've modified (and modified again) for Ferrari crank pulleys. I think it used to be a 36mm socket. I'm not sure if it's the one you need but you get the idea.
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  9. racerboy9

    racerboy9 F1 Rookie
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    I believe I just used a 6-point Craftsman 36mm socket with short extension and an impact wrench to take the dampener bolt out. Should slide out OK or use a puller if necessary. Good time to check/replace the seal and check for grooving where the seal rides on the dampener pulley.
     
  10. John Corbani

    John Corbani Formula 3
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    Scott,
    I have had my pump out a number of times with no problem. I looked back at my Saga 051030 pictures to see what was different. http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80948&highlight=051030
    Second picture. My crankshaft pulley is quite different. There are two opposite flats on the pulley! Just enough to let the pump get out. I suggest you just bite the bullet and pull the pulley. A standard socket fits mine just fine. My pulley has been off a couple of times and not difficult. Suggestion of looking at oil seal is a good one. Might see about milling a pair of flats on the pulley while it is out. Exactly the same size so pulley stays ballanced. No larger than necessary. There will be another time if you drive the car a lot. Not too good an idea to play with the studs if you don't have to. Good luck.
    John
     
  11. UroTrash

    UroTrash Four Time F1 World Champ
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    Why not grind a flat on his pulley like yours? That would solve the prob for time eternal.
     
  12. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
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    If you have the socket and impact wrench to get the bolt loose the pulley should come right off.

    Why bastardize the pulley? You probably won't have to do this again for years.

    If you do, just remove the pulley again. It doesn't get much easier.
     
  13. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    #13 synchro, Feb 20, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017

    Thanks, since my car has A/C, I wonder if that was the reason for having a different crankshaft drive pulley...


    The impeller is completely housed in the waterpump and not exposed, here are some pics:
    - waterpump mounting, impeller does not protrude beyond housing machined surface
    - I can pull the whole waterpump out over 0.5 inch from the block
    - new parts ready to go!


    BTW,
    My pump has not failed and is in great shape but I'm helping a Maserati parts supplier who wants one to use as a template to reproduce these. He scoffed when he saw the eBay repros for $800.
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  14. John Corbani

    John Corbani Formula 3
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    Scott,
    Impeller wants to clear back of housing by 0.020-0.040". With the gasket, pump works fine and lots of clearance. My Dino is #04504 and had air. Just different pulley. Hard to figure the way Ferrari mixed and matched parts. Just have to be willing to learn every time you touch anything.
    John
     
  15. champtc

    champtc Formula Junior

    Apr 18, 2004
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    it probably would be easier to remove the pulley. However, I don't hthink getting the studs out would be too hard ( only two of em)...spray it wit PB blaster first & give it a shot.
     
  16. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    #16 synchro, Nov 24, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I had to break the pulley nut free with a 36mm socket and I've finally removed the old waterpump. Placing it back to back with the new one from Jacques of the MaseratiSource and looking down the top you can see the difference in the bearings and seals.
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  17. swift53

    swift53 F1 Veteran
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    Scott, do you see a mechanical improvement in the new pump? Or...
    Regards, Alberto
     
  18. celestialcoop

    celestialcoop Formula Junior
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    #18 celestialcoop, Nov 24, 2009
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2009
    Gents,
    I installed one of Jacques' pumps on my Euro/non-air car & am very pleased. Of course, it was part of a major cooling system freshening, so I can't specifically evaluate the pump. The project included replacing all of the hoses (long ones, too), new S/S water pipes, re-core of steel-finned FIM rad to copper-core (maintaining original tanks, straps, brackets, connectors, bleed fitting & fan switch; losing considerable weight, or vastly improving efficiency), inspection/cleaning/lubing of stock fan motors, elimination of a 'ton' of paint/overspray/undercoating on the stock aluminum 3-blade fans (less mass to spin, now), addition of the foam barrier/seal to underside of 'hood,' inpection of t-stat & sensors and cleaning of the heat exchanger honeycomb (considerable debris restricted water flow). I'm currently running filtered water & 2 bottles of Water Wetter, but will shortly swap out a gallon of this blend for anti-freeze. The shop that did my radiator is owned & operated by a husband/wife team. They've been in the business for years & have dealt with industrial & farm applications, too. They recommend only one gallon of coolant for our clime, where ambient temps generally range from 50F to 82F, with infrequent excursions into the barely freezing realm and short-duration bursts into the nearly-100 degree region.

    At any rate, the fruits of our labor are plentiful. I've driven the Dino on a couple of cool days and a couple of the rare warmer (90F) days--in city traffic & on the freeway. The water temp comes up more quickly to normal range, the fans kick in right on cue & do their job well, and a pleasant side-effect is the faster warming of the oil...heat exchanger once again multi-tasking...to normal range (all the sooner to actuate the loud-pedal through its entire range!).

    OK. There you have it. More info than you asked for, Alberto. However, I believe it's safe to say that the new & improved MaseratiSource pump is a worthwhile addition to the cooling system.

    As for the clearance between the water pump & pulley, mine was no-factor. I lucked out there!

    I'll post some pics shortly; you won't believe the condition of the seemingly original radiator!
    Coop
     
  19. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

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    I urged Jacques to post directly, perhaps he's too busy

    Hi Scott,
    The seal is out of a newer Mercedes.The bearings are also different and more readly available for future rebuilts.I have sold quite a few to the local shops and to the dealers overseas.I can offer a discount of 20% to the Ferrari chat members.If you need references,I can also provide phone numbers of the local shops that have used them.

    Jacques
    [email protected]
     
  20. swift53

    swift53 F1 Veteran
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    I have had Jacques' water pump for awhile now, I have not started on the motor rebuild yet, so no clue on the pulley... Now, I am extremely pleased in knowing that the pump is improved. Cheers Jacques!
    Regards, Alberto
     

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