Dino door lock mechanism

Have you tried a locksmith??

Dennis McCann doesn't have these. Is it simply a bushing and an internally threaded bolt?

Hard to tell from the picture, and I haven't had mine apart.

The mechanism is used in a bunch of cars from that era. Porsche, Alfa, Volvo, VW and BMW.

Try these guys.

http://www.swedishtreasures.com/1201.html

oh, on the parts.

45 is a bushing - bocolla
46 is not translatable, at least not in my limited Italian Parts list in my head.

 

I R&R'd the driver door lock/latch mech. as well as the power window sys. a couple yrs ago and recall that the lock cylinder had a ball-end stud that the latch arm fit over.

The #45 was a thin nylon ? washer/bushing with an ID slightly smalled than the ball-end so it had to be pressed over the ball, holding the arm in place. The assembly was locked on the ball-end with a Circlip of the appropriate size compatable with the thickness of the washer.

I'm not sure this was the original setup but it works fine. It's very hard to tell what these parts really look like from the parts manuals. I would think a nylon washer with the appropriate ID and thickness could be found at the local Ace Hardware. Circlips are readily available.

Hope this helps you!

Bill
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Had the door apart when I read your post and shot this pic. Lock comes out easily. Just loosen the nut.

Actuating arm is held on lock by circlip. Nylon washer is between arm and circlip.

Arm is attached to latch mechanism by a nylon clip. Can be freed with fingers but finding the exact point to push is a trick. Once you get everything out, fixing is easy.

Make sure you mark and write down the exact angular position of lock and the key position BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE LOCK. Makes life easier when replacing. Don't ask me how I know.

Good luck.

John
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Sorry! I neglected to measure the Circlip when I had it out - it's probably metric but you can take the whole mech. to Ace and maybe find a combo that'll work. If not, a specialty hardware like McMaster-Carr has large selection of various retainer rings ( www.mcmaster.com. ). They would even have the nylon washers.

If you have calipers, measure the OD of the ball-end. A retainer with an ID that is smaller but large enough to allow room for the washer should work.

Glad you didn't get hit too hard by Rita!

Bill

 

Shawn,
"E-clip" is the name more often used. I go to our local ACE hardware store to buy all the metric hardware I need. The have an unbelievable assortment of metric hardware. They even have stainless steel and some hardened washers / lock washers.

Regards,
Richard

 

On a side note, "Snap rings" are the other common type of retaining ring. There are internal and external "snap rings". I am in the process of rebuilding my distributor and it uses an external snap ring for the lower bearing and I will be using an E-clip for the upper bearing. E-clips come in metric and SAE sizes. E-clips look like a circular "E".

Richard

 

Item number 46 of TAV 109 is the name of the mfr of the retaining ring which is "SEEGER".

They make snap rings and E-clips.

Here is their website:

http://www.seeger-orbis.de/en/index.php?article_id=281

http://mdmetric.com/retring.htm

Regards,
Richard

 

To my knowledge, Circlip has been the generic term used for all circular type retainer rings. Getting more specific, there are Snap-rings, E-Circlips, C-Rings, K-rings, U-rings and many others. All are intended for slightly different applications.

I believe, for this particular application, the E-Circlip or the U-Ring will work best. They can both be pushed onto the Ball-shaft with your finger or the blade of a screwdriver without the need of snap-ring pliers. The U-Ring has a longer lead-in and is easier to install in tight places but may be more difficult to source at Ace Hardware.

Bill

 

Shawn:

both Ace Hardware and Home Dept have large selections of SAE and metric hardware. I have found e-clips, snap rings (little holes at each end that work with special tools to open and close), and c-clips in the drawers.

 

Image Unavailable, Please Login Just took the door lock mechanism out of my UK 1973 GT for cleaning and oiling, and took opportunity to record measurements for Fchat reference.
Kevin

Related references:
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/dino-door-lock-mechanism.76451/
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/door-lock-nylon-bushings.441840/
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/door-lock-gasket.459693/
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/nut-for-door-lock-cylinder.555786/

 

I purchased the white door lock bush from Superformance. However, I had to file both flats down from 4.5mm to 3.0mm to reduce the thickness to enable the e-clip to insert.
My original e-clip is split and not ideal. I have normal e-clips with correct ID but nothing with an OD large enough that prevents the locking arm from coming off. Any source suggestions from those have worked this before?
Kevin
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Also a few tips if anyone need to adjust their door lock. If doing with door open, you will need to rotate the door locking disc to the closed position (naturally it will be in the open position) to allow the locking arm t0 drop.
After cleaning and oiling, the mechanism works rather nicely.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I find it funny that Ferrari would use the TM name of a German component, a SEEGER® ring
Very punctilious, or?

Regards, Alberto