Dino Electric Windows

The electric windows on my '72 246gt - US Version - have been slow for a long time, but finally the passenger window stopped operating at all. Pushing the window switch causes my parking brake light to illuminate.

Does anyone have any thoughts on how to replace the motor?

 

I would advise against jumping to the conclusion that the motor is the culprit. The motor is likely good. The brake lights may be related to a bad ground, with current seeking an alternative to the designed route. I assume, of course, that you have not altered the original wiring and inadvertently changed the wiring.

The approach I would take would be to remove the door panel and water shield (gray film). Disconnect the battery so as not to burn out your door and interior light while you work for several hours, or better yet, use tape to hold the door switch down. You will need the battery connected several times. Using a slotted screw driver, mechanically disconnect the glass from the bottom rail that drives the glass up and down. Now try to lift and lower the glass while it is no longer mechanically linked to the cable or motor. While many here will suggest that the grease in the motor is "all dried up" and like "concrete", I find that friction within the felt tracks represent more of a problem than grease that has already been pushed away from moving parts many years ago. If the windows slides up and down easily, then push it all the way up, and out of the way of the channel. Now use your switch to see if the bottom glass-rail will move up and down without the mechanical load of the window glass.

Basically what the previous paragraph is seeking is whether the glass is holding things back, or whether the motor/linkage is the culprit.

In addition, I would disconnect the leads to the motor (without unbolting the motor from the door) and clean them as best you can with fine sandpaper. Clean the tabs on the motor as well. BE CAREFULL, there are three female connectors to the motor, mentally or physically mark them so that you know how they go back.

Check the fuse under the front bonnet. Take the fuse out and use sandpaper on both the ends of the fuse and the copper "cups" of the fuse holder. If so motiviated, remove the center console and clean all of the contacts at the window switch.

Simple cleaning of the electrical contacts and fuse may solve your problem. Years of oxidation may increase electrical resistance with consequent reduction of voltage at the motor. If after cleaning all of the contacts, and assuring that the mechanical movement of the glass is not limiting performance, I would pull the voltmeter out of the drawer and make sure that you are getting voltage to the motor leads. If you are, and the motor does not drive the cable without the glass, then you may have to remove the motor.

Removing the motor is easy. First photograph or draw the routing of the cable, with particular attention to which run sits inboard or outboard of another as they cross. Pay attention to direction of passage over the pulleys, and position of the tension adjustment pulley. After having documented all of these issues, loosen the tensioner (13 mm with a locknut), remove the motor with 10 mm spanner, and watch all the cable seek a lower energy level.

You cannot imagine the fun you will have rewinding the cable on the drum. Entropy can be most annoying.

The motor comes apart quite easily. Just take you time and remember your steps. You can clean the brushes, open the gear box, clean out the old grease, and reassemble. There is nothing to break, and only the brushes will need gentle cleaning. Take a BrakeClean-soaked rag to wipe down the armature. Reassemble and test. Nothing to it. Just scraped knuckles and a day of your time.

Have fun and let us know where you are each step of the way. Many here are anxious to help.

Jim S.

 

OMGjon has been through it before and has a great website you can use as a resource:
http://www.dinorestoration.com/7836pictures.html

For a view of the innards, perhaps start here at the 34th stripping shots:
http://www.dinorestoration.com/disassembly/pages/Strip034.html

Many Ferrari, including my Dino have slower passenger side window action than the driver's side. If you get into the investigation and find this the case, there is a VERY helpful FerrariChat member, Frazer Smith, who has provided a solution for his 348 but also crosses over to other models, such as the Dino;
The FerrariChat thread discussing the issues and solution with actual user feedback:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106031&page=10

His website showing the Dino compatability:
http://www.btinternet.com/~frazer.smith1/ferrariwindow/index.html

You gotta love FerrariChat for providing such a conduit for information transfer, why not subscribe at only $15 per year and support the hosts who encourage this?