Dino Front cover dilemma | FerrariChat

Dino Front cover dilemma

Discussion in '206/246' started by Gary48, Oct 13, 2005.

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  1. Gary48

    Gary48 Guest

    Dec 30, 2003
    940
    Experianced hands, is it possible to remove the front timing chain cover with the oil pump on the cover? It doesn't look possible to remove the pump because of no access to the nuts on the pump.
     
  2. Gary48

    Gary48 Guest

    Dec 30, 2003
    940
    Well after no takers on this problem, we have found out that you may not remove the front timing cover on the 246 without removing the motor. This is counter to what someone else reported.
    The problem is the oil pump. In order to remove it you must first separate the motor from the crankcase/transaxel first. The oil pump is attached to the cover and cannot be removed from the cover without separation from the crankcase. The problem is the oil pick-up (The non removable part) will not allow the front cover to move forward for removal.
     
  3. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

    Feb 14, 2005
    9,294
    CHNDLR
    Full Name:
    Scott
    GT or GTS?
     
  4. Gary48

    Gary48 Guest

    Dec 30, 2003
    940
    syncro, thats a good one.
     
  5. dinogts

    dinogts Formula 3
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Gary -

    Why are you having to remove the timing chain cover?

    Mark Nerheim
     
  6. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

    Feb 14, 2005
    9,294
    CHNDLR
    Full Name:
    Scott
    Because of space issues in GTs - remember that this is the area that the GTS's were extended - the engine cover on GTS's had one more vent rows than GTs
     
  7. lm2504me

    lm2504me Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 26, 2004
    1,121
    Nipomo, CA
    Full Name:
    Richard
    Synchro,
    Gary is talking about the timing cover, not the engine cover.

    Just in case you are serious.

    Richard
     
  8. Gary48

    Gary48 Guest

    Dec 30, 2003
    940
    Mark, I had one chain that stretched beyond the capability of the tentioner. My screw up at overhaul, I should have replaced the chains. The previous owner replaced them so I trusted that they were o.k., then I found a woodruff (half moon) key that had shattered on the offending idler shaft. This all screwed up my cam and ignition timing. If I hadn't caught it in time I would have kissed the valves $$$$$. Most thing are for good reason.
    I am replacing both chains ( Lyle Tanner Ent ) with the newer chains with a master link, these chains have much thicker links and are reported to stretch much less, at least they will offer peace of mind. The brand new SKF idler bearings from the loose side showed premature wear probably from excessive harmonics and are being replaced also.
    Another item to pay close attention to is the two nuts that secure the idler shafts to the gear and sprocket combo, this must be torqued to spec. We had found that the loose side was not secured as I had suspected, probably leading to the key and bearing failure, this nut secures the gear and sprocket together as well as to the outside bearing. Every little item on this motor must recieve the ultimate scrutiny to make them last and our learning curve has been steep. Because of these problems I am also replacing the idler shafts and keys. I am hoping that should do it. I hope these little hints at my expense will help someone else from having to do it twice.

    Gary
     

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