Dino L/M series Engine Light wanted for possible reproduction.

Just as the thread title, I need a bad/not needed anymore light, yet complete, for an effort of having molds made here and the feasibility of reproduction. It seems that they are completely unavailable, and after the group has passed the full variety of opinions about it,
the bottom line is that it is NLA.

My friend here, is in the plastic business, and can definitely make them. What is needed is an open-able one, a sacrificial one, which will not see service again as they are thermally sealed. He also has informed me that this unit is only possible to be replicated in the 3rd World, as NO ONE, would even consider to make a run of less than many thousands in your World. If you have contacts in China, be my guest.
Even then, he is not guaranteeing anything unless we have a sample. As everyone has appreciated by the photos, there is a spring for the plunger, the plunger, and a variety of brass strips + a copper rivet and a stud +washer and nut. In other words, much more than just the housing.

Matthias Bartz informs me that more than 1,000 cars had this light, and theoretically we can do a fairly small run, determined by the market.
This, provided my friend can make\is interested, as this contraption is of the Rube Goldberg school of design, thus achingly complicated. Just the housing, requires 4 molds...
and even here, expensive and not water cooled, thus a slow painstaking process of popping a few on Saturday nights when regular production is not running.
Enter the assembly of the components after the production of the housing.

I am posting this as a gauge and see who is interested and who is not. Please remember, this light fits all 206, 246 L, and M series.
The poll, if I can figure out how to post it correctly, will only have 2 options:
YES, and the number of units. If you do not want or need one, we aren't interested.

I just previewed the poll, and frankly can't tell if you can insert the amount you desire.

Please, anyone with those talents and administrative powers make the necessary corrections, as I really need a head count and do not wish to receive a zillion pm's!.

This poll and the sample switch are just the tip of the iceberg.

Please, realize that I am not making any promises of success even after the sample is disassembled.....(usual disclaimers).

Kind regards, Alberto

 

Alberto, I actually want 5 engine lights
regards Matthias

 

It seems to me there are at least (3) different variations of the engine light, so did the style vary by year or model or are (2) of those impostors that were actually in non-Dino's?
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the last one is the correct one, the other two are from different cars ....

 

wasn't the answer I was hoping for (ie, not the one I acquired for my Dino)...;-(

 

Where are all the guys looking for this switch/light asking me over the years where to get it?

 

Very good question ;-)

Regards, Alberto

PS Where is a "donor switch"?

 

We know Matthias has one, although it seems to be in use..;-)

 

I have one too, but you will need a crowbar to get it out of my cold, frozen fingers...

Regards, Alberto

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ferrari-Dino-engine-compartment-light-NOS-and-NLA-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35b28bd7faQQitemZ230628775930QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

That doesn't look the same as the one identified as being the `correct' one for a Dino. Or perhaps it was the selling price that affected my vision!

 

it is the same one and 100% correct one for Dino 206 GT, L- and M-series

 

In the poll, Matthias needs 5, + 4-5 more are interested. I would still need an old broken one to make the mold, which costs approx $4,000 +/-
Then, we still have to source or produce the contacts, spring, plunger, and tiny rivets.
I am still willing to participate in this project, but I am not willing to do it alone, as frankly, I don't think I will retire to Monaco on the proceeds alone.

By the same token, a surplus of these switches will absolutely kill the "switch futures market".

Kudos Keith! You have suddenly become a market reference...

I think I should plant more coffee trees instead...

Regards, Alberto

 

It is surprising that companies can't combine 3D scanning and Cast Urethane techniques to replicate parts like this in small quantities and at prices that work for them and parts customers.

It wasn't too long ago that most of us took film to a store from processing and printing and now we can do this at home with digital cameras and personal photo printers faster and cheaper.

Perhaps hobby shops will some day sell these sorts of solutions so that replicating parts will be cheap, user friend and yet meet a reasonably high bar for quality.

Alberto, build that solution and Monaco will be all yours. Until such time, coffee trees or Dino horn buttons offer a much better ROI.

Cheers...Keith

 

Keith, I will try to make both, but alas..I still need the samples for both switch and horn button. A really good photo of the horn button, could be a start.

I am in the process of making the inclination adjustment, seat lever for "L" / Daytonas
with the rubber mold system. we'll see how that goes.

First though, I have to go plant some trees as we are really good at that.

Regards from Monaco, Alberto

 

Alberto,

Definitely interested in the switch.

Kind Regards,

Paul

 

I've been very intersted in this possibility for Unobtainium. I've even requested & received sample parts from several StereoLithography (aka 3D printing) products.

3D scanning isn't the problem, it appears to have the necessary resolution, and post processing could provide smoothing if necessary. However, you need a positive part to use as a mold pattern for a rubber mold to make urethane parts. A good rubber mold will literally reproduce a fingerprint on a smooth mold pattern!

What is needed to make a mold pattern is at least a 20X to 50x improvement in the resolution of 3D printers. The Stratasys Dimension Elite high end 3D printer (about $35K) has a minimum feature size of 0.07" [0.178mm]. This resolution produces a noticably rough surface finish. Substantial very careful sanding & filling would be required to produce a positive suitable for making a mold without loosing fine detail.

The commercial laser based 3D printers only have about 50% finer resolution, and their prices are astronomical.

The parts coming out of 3D printers are still much more fragile than parts cast from the same or other plastics as they have tiny porosities betwen the fused dots. Thus they are easily broken unless they are very thick like the toys made by the recently announced 'consumer' systems.

However, this is a rapidly evolving technology, so things may well be very different in another 5 years or so.


Alberto, for the time being, the trick is going to be to find a few broken switches that between them can be disassembled to come up with a complete set of parts for mold patterns. That's the way I eventually ended up with the molds for many of the parts that Unobtainium offers.

I'm very interested in how your seat lever project comes out.

Just my $0.02.

 

I have one NOS engine light switch left. I might consider using it to reproduce more of them for all of the interested parties.

I believe Redeye.com is capable of doing production quality 3D parts in materials that would be a close match to the colors and strength of the originals.

1) If the parts were a perfect copy, 2) if it was at least a break even proposition and 3) if replicating the original brand markings on the reproduction part was not an issue, I'd be up for it.

Let me do some fact finding. I'm open to thoughts and suggestions.

Cheers...Keith

 

Hello Keith,

from my point of view the original brand markings are important...
It needs to be a 100% copy....

Regards Matthias

 

I am currently in the process of having these switches made. 100% perfect with all markings and more modern and durable plastics. Lead time for the project will be a minimum of 6 months and we have no clue on a final price yet but it is currently in process and we have a switch that has been torn open to get all the dimensions we need.

 

I need one too.

Does your Dino have the L series dinoplex or the M?

 

Smaller M series Dinoplex not the longer one

 

I will take five....

 

If someone else is going to make a perfect copy, I'll just hold onto the NOS example in case mine gives up the ghost.

Problem solved.

Cheers...Keith

 

Hello Matthias, I am curious, after my post in the hubcap emblems, you mention it "has to be Foredit". Why, if I may ask?

The Vitaloni has markings, not where the Foredit has them, but it is an original part for a Dino, or at least I think so,
yet I have been wrong too many times

Have you seen the Vitaloni anywhere else?

Regards, Alberto