In response to Robert's question about lifting a Dino on a two post lift, I've got the following insight. You need to be really careful not to damage your rocker panels when lifting a Dino on a two post lift. With the two post lift I owned in the past (BendPak) and with my new ones (Nussbaum), both have pads at the end of the lift arms which can be placed under the frame and screwed up to the the right height so that the rocker panels won't get crunched by the lift arms when the car was in the air. This can be a bit of a pain and when you get it wrong, your rocker arms take a beating. With that in mind, I built stands using the pad bases so that I can lift the Dino from under the tires. This ensures that the lift arms are well below the rocker panels. This is particularly nice for those of us who live where there are earthquakes. When the last one hit in Seattle, my car was 7ft up in the air but because the pads were under the wheels and not the frame, the suspension moved up and down and the car was just fine. Of course, if you need to work on the wheels/brakes, you'll need to lift the car on the frame using conventional pads but for storage and most engine related work, these stands are great. I'll post photos tonight. Cheers...Keith
I have yet to find a car that can't be safely lifted with a two-post lift. Sometimes it requires a creative approach, one or two floor jacks and an assortment of appropriately sized lumber. Rocker panels (and exhaust systems) always get a critical eye. I usually place a small piece of wood on each of the lift pads. 1.5" is usually enough height for comfortable clearance. To get the car off the lift I have some short pieces of 2x12 that I place under the tires to hold the car up a bit (good idea to set the E-brake first). Swing the arms out and you're good to go. I've had the most difficulty with small cars. I had a 427 Cobra in the shop, the frame rails were so narrow the lift arms wouldn't reach that close together (about 6" short). I found a stout plank that would span between the lift pads. It worked fine. A Dino is actually one of the easier ones, as it's pretty easy to locate a solid frame member.
Dino is real easy. There are frame members just inside both front and rear wheel openings. They are covered by the belly pan but they are there. No need to go way under the car to get central frame rails. Just want a hard rubber pad or a short 2 x 4 to make sure that you get the rail, not just the belly pan. Take a look at OMGJON's pictures of the frame on the rotisserie. Clear as a bell. John
Hi all - Hopefully Keith will get his photos posted soon for all to see. And, hopefully, syncro (Scott) will see this and post too. He's stuck between putting a 2 post and a 4 post in his garage. He has been told that a 2 post needs more (and better) foundation support than a 4 post - that any minor cracks in the floor are potentially BIG problems for a 2 post, but not so much for a 4 post. Any comments? Mark
The people about to install my lifts (2- AND 4-post - the ultimate plurge!) have a whole sheet of specific requirements for concrete, that must be met, or they won't install. Briefly, thickness was not an issue as long as the slab was at least 4" thick and at least 3000psi strength. Also, any cracks or expansion seams must be at least 6" from any mount attachment on the lift. They do not discriminate 2- vs 4-post on these requirements. Since my installations are to be in a new, purpose built garage, I poured 6" concrete w/ extra reinforcement- rebar and wire mesh, 3500psi. BTW in a previous home I had a four post lift, installed on a slab of unknown thickness and strength, with plenty of cracks (though none directly under any leg) and had no problems for the four years I owned/used it. Of course, the basic issue between 2- and 4-post choice is the ultimate purpose of the lift- 4 is better for car storage and genl. work on the car, easier waxing (no more bending over),etc, but with a 4-post, there is no real easy/practical way to work on the wheels/brakes/suspension (without acrobatics w/ jackstands,etc). Hope this all helps.
I've posted photos of my old garage with the Dino up on the lift (some in mid restoration). Note the custom pads under the tires I mentioned earlier in this thread. This was a BendPak symmetrical lift. Photos of the new garage with Nussbaum 2-post lifts still to come (check back tonight). As for 2 vs. 4 post lifts, I wouldn't even consider a 4 post lift. Too cumbersome, too hard to move around and work under. 2 post lifts are really cost effective, stable, easy to use and work like a charm. The real questions to ponder are: Which manufacturer (BendPak, Rotary, Nussbaum, others) Asymmetric or Symmetric Clear floor (cables overhead) or Clear ceiling (cables on floor beneath plate) Is lift travel sufficient to park another car beneath (if required) Check back at 8pm for photos of new garage/lifts. Cheers...Keith Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Keith- I like the wheel pads, giving you the storage ability similar to a 4-post; ie the best of both worlds. Still anxiously await the photos of precise placement/lift points in the front.
When I get home tonight, I'll lift the car up on the chassis pads and send you a photo of the lifting points. FYI, when you use the wheel pads to lift the car as pictured above, you simply use a floor jack to lift the car and then swing the pads under the wheels. Super easy. If you buy a BendPak, I can sell you my old pads. ...Keith
Who installed your rollup door? I'm on the Eastside and at the point of needing one to fit a lift in the garage. Thx, Scott
Doors at the old garage and new one were installed by Doors West. They are great. Call Earl (the owner) at (253) 852-9110.
Thank you. Amarr garage doors came out, quoted and then changed their mind about the price for doing a high lift door. Have you seen the jack-shaft power door lifts? Amarr claims they are new on the market.
Yes, I have a friend with a jack shaft lift. I don't know the pros/cons and I really didn't investigate it because the hydraulic type had worked well for me at the last house. My friend's jack shaft lift is quite loud and expensive and is made in Italy. I got Nussbaum lifts for our new hous - they work really well and have a clever design. They will also custom paint them red for us Ferrari nuts.
The jack shaft I'm referring to raises the garage door and is a replacement for those like a Genie, Stanley, Chamberlain, etc Apologies on the miscommunication. BTW, I know your concours Dino always sparkles, but what do you use to clean the engine and transaxle casings? I've been using brake cleaner and alcohol but am thinking of going to a de-greaser. Any recommendations would be most appreciated.
Sorry, misunderstood. At the old house, we had a Raynor jackshaft door motor - worked great. At the new place, Doors West was able to design the door using a conventional door and motor which saved us money. I understand LiftMaster makes a reasonably priced jackshaft motor now. I do nothing to detail my motor - it just looks clean because I don't have time to drive the car!
See the attached photos for the lifting points on my Dino. Please note my lift is asymmetric and has extra-length rear arms. A symmetrical lift or one with standard length rear arms may change where the pads can be located on your car. The tough part is making sure the pads are tight against the frame before you lift or you'll crunch your rocker panels or damage the fiberglass belly pan (speaking from experience). Getting the arms and pads positioned just right so that the car is well supported and doesn't get damaged takes a bit of floor time before you lift but isn't too difficult. Cheers...Keith Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Keith- Many, many thanks for taking the time to take/post these pics. Any real difference in locating the front pads inboard, as you have done/shown, vs more outboard (more directly behind the wheels)? Thanks, Bob
The frame just behind the front wheels runs on an angle up to where I've got the pads located. Any point along that frame rail would be fine. ...Keith
I'm planning a new workshop with a two-post lift. What are your recommendations on the issues Keith posed? Which manufacturer (BendPak, Rotary, Nussbaum, others)? Asymmetric or Symmetric? Clear floor (cables overhead) or Clear ceiling (cables on floor beneath plate)? I don't plan to park a car underneath, but do have a low clearance car (a Porsche GT3) apart from the 246. Keith, is your Nussbaum three-phase? Many thanks, Andy
I chose Rotary. They claim to be the last remaining all-US made lift, and is a long established company with excellent support network. BendPak is probably about as good, but I don't know as much about them (one thing I remember reading is that compressed air is required to release the lock mechanism on their lifts - not so on Rotary). Virtually all major auto service operations (car dealers, etc) will be using one or the other of these two brands. Perhaps Keith can comment on Nussbaum- I'd never heard of it before his post. I chose an asymmetric, since it provides the ability to open the car doors fully while the car is "up". All of Rotary's lifts are 220V, so no choice is needed there, but after having had a 110V powered 4 post previously, I can attest to the snail-like lift speed (exactly half the speed of 220V). I went with clear-floor variation. Finally, unless you have the ability to move parts weighing several hundred lbs (if delivered to you by a trucking company, the trucker may even expect you to unload it from his truck), trust yourself w/ drilling concrete and erecting the legs (shimming to perfect vertical as necessary), and have knowledge of the setup of hydraulic systems, I would STRONGLY recommend that you spring for the $ (prob 400-500) to have it professionally installed. Hope all this helps.
I think that may be marketing hype. I have a Mohawk, one of the more expensive lifts, totally made in the USA and I like it because the Ferrari dealer uses them! http://www.mohawklifts.com/ Birdman
The Nussbaum model I got is not 3 phase. It is extremely well made but I think they are all fairly similar. Cheers...Keith
Bend-Pak, well built, inexpensive. I used to have a Nussbaum. Nice, well built but the controls reminded me of a Mercedes electrical system. Troubleshooting a problem was a PITA.
I actually raise and lower my cars so rarely, I don't exactly tax the electrical system. I'm more worried about the seals. I agree, the BendPak were are great value.
