Dino Restoration #4946

In addition to messing up the aesthetics, the hood vents are functional to let heat out as air flows through the radiator.
I am willing to bet the blue custom Dino runs hot.

It looks to me like a visit to this shop is in order.

Jon, are you OK with reusing the suspension nylock nuts more than once?
There is some spirited debate on this. I do not have a problem with it personally.
Have you ever replated these nuts before?
If so, do you have any before and after pics?
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Is gearbox and engine oil words exchanged in photos?

 

Omgjon & Jon- I am working on the issue of cadmium plating myself. Omgjon u mentioned u used the Caswell plating system and it worked pretty well but only in the beginning. I am anxious to buy this kit and have already bought the manual to really learn how this works. As you said there is an extensive website and one of the guys has put a nice site up for doing what they call Copy Cad. It is the effect of cadmium plating. I have it on my favorite sites & he goes on to say how he has made a barrel system that works quite well. I am thinking of it for the same reasons you did...take a few nuts bolts off plate em & reinstall. The alternative is to take every single nut & bolt off throw em in a bucket & send em to the Cad plating guy at $100 bucks a throw (at least back east). If you forget some then another $100 bucks and on & on. The appeal of the home system is strong but I am not keen to waste the $$ on it if it doesn't work. Has anyone else used this? If it does work it really helps in the restoration of things especially considering losing stuff or forgetting where it goes. I am very interested to see what others think that have done this. Or it could be a waste of time & money?

 

Jon,

Just noticed that the radiator in the black 246 doesn't appear to be at all stock from the heads on photo.

Is there something funny going on there? Has it been replaced with a modern radiator at some point?

Dave

 

Jon, In the shots of the black Dino on the lift above the blue GTS, it looks as though it is buzzing a landing strip, having already retracted the landing gear! I've often thought that the GT body shape would have made a good boat or fighter plane design! Fred

 

If the concern is that they could come undone, you can always put on loctite, which accomplishes the same thing as the nylock rubber piece (keeping them from backing out).

Jon: Don't let "blackie" there drip on that beautiful blue paint. How much faster are you taking stuff off because of the experience factor?

Best
Alberto

 

Welcome back Jeff!
Alberto is right, things seem to be going faster (smoother too?)

Photo number 7 shows the ears torn off the engine block's rear coolant petcock. After draining, you just need to finger tighten these as they seal firmly on temperature cycles then they automatically lock down much harder so that the next time someone tries to rotate the drain shaft it takes herculean strength to break free.

Once broken, you'll need to buy a new one which is about $30.00 USD from Dinoparts.de
or $2.99 from Harbor Freight (item #95804)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?itemnumber=95804


Buy 3 of these for the two petcocks on the engine block and the one petcock on the radiator

 

Jon- I just sent my car to the plastic media stripper. He is going to blast the paint off the body. I also want the frame stripped of all that undercoat etc and he has the ability to blast that with grit. I had been thinking instead to hit the frame with the wire brush cup on a grinder and do it that way. However, I am not sure that I can do as good a job and would like it to be very clean. The only problem is I have not removed the fibreglass panels in the cockpit and so the stripper could not get all sides of the frame tubes (clearly I could hit those spots later). What do u advise?

 

Tom, (sorry to butt in Jon)
I have a little experience with this. I have a 500 lb capacity pressure fed blasting system that runs at 100 psi. I have done hundreds of hours with it. The undercoating is time consuming to blast off and your masking will get eaten through, hurting the fiberglass. You are also going to have loads of plastic media and sand in nooks and crannies that will be almost impossible to remove. Your painter will curse you.
The best thing to do is reclaim your body from the blaster guy and finish stripping the all the fiberglass panels off. The overall job will be superior in all respects.
The fiberglass panels should be paint and undercoating stripped and refinished off the car
best regards,
jon

Back to you omgjon. tx.

 

hmnn- good advice. I wonder if I could just do it at the guys shop. Did you use a dremel, air powered cut off wheel or do u think a sawzall would do it? I copied all of the pics of the fibreglass panels being removed off of the dino restoration page. Maybe I could take those & a sawzall and cut them out?

 

Jon,

While you're there could you please look at the coolant hoses from the tunnel and their connection to the pipes that go aft?

Were pipes 22 and 39 swapped?

Put another way;
Does tunnel hose #33 really connect to pipe #22 and is on the top of the tunnel?
Is tunnel hose hose #2 really below hose #33 and connect to pipe #39?

When I recently replaced mine it was previously installed opposite from what the parts book showed and would not go any other way (top hose went to pipe #39, bottom hose to pipe #22).
Thank you.


PS - that single resonator exhaust is unique, never seen one before.
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