Dino Restoration #4946

How about when you live in a 365 day/sunny and hot environment?
Would you just not run the hoses to the heater core?
Great idea about the valve, though, maybe better as it keeps everything original
and in place in case I drive up to the frozen north.

 

Short answer: As close to the waterpump output as possible. Near the passenger side fuel tank looks to be a prospective access point where you could reach down and turn the valve handle the 2 times per year that you might want to turn it off/on yet still be out of sight for car shows.

Long answer: Depends on your goal. When we last talked you were going to lighten the car with the special AL radiator and here is a candidate to save even more weight as I doubt you'll need a heater in the San Diego. In addition, this modification would be difficult to detect by car show judges and would clean up the engine area even further too, leaving it less cluttered.

If you can find a hose with a 90 degree bend at the end that would be a substitute for hose #3 then you could delete even more weight of:
- item #8 the rear "T"
- long hose #32
- item #42 the forward "T"
- short hose #41
- the cable operated heater valve.

My Euro Dino #05082 almost has this modification because it has the heater hose #32 cut about a foot after the "T", item #8, with a solid, aluminum dowel stuffed in then clamped shut to a dead end it. The return hose is similarly blanked off. Car has never needed to run the heater to cool the engine and I rarely miss the heater.

In all truthfulness, the car was repeatedly serviced by "maestro" Claudio at FST, Foreign Sport Technician, in Santa Monica and the praise is due to him. It is this type of crafty, practical, and innovative solutions that are his trademark.
The second photo barely shows the modification at the top of the image with the blanked off hose being fuzzy out of focus.

Yes, I'm fully restoring all hoses and A/C on my USA Dino #05702 as I have driven it in Dec with snow on the side of the road while rationalizing to myself that I NEED to drive it periodically to warm the transaxle fluid and parts.

Tough call, eh?
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I remade the engine compartment bulkhead heat shield out of polished stainless steel and am pretty happy with it. The original was polished aluminum which oxidizes over the years and loses it's shine.

 

Nice AR.

 

Did someone rattle can those fuel tanks and overspray onto the retaining straps?
Really inconsistent with how nice the rest of the Dino appears.
BTW, I was thinking how absolutely great of a starting point this Dino is for your goal.
The alternator fuse box has been stressed.

From the image, looks like the preferred variant of Bushmaster with a 1/9 twist barrel.
Sweet!

 

Come to Monterey!
Tom Yang gets a group of Ferrari 330 guys together for a social event at Monterey. There is far more enthusiasm here (so many guys with 2+ Dinos), wonder if we could do something similar?

 

Regrettably, that's not in the cards right now. I will be traveling to Maranello in Sept., however. Sadly, I've only seen two Dinos there in eight visits. One is on permanent display at the Galleria Ferrari. The other was in a Ferrari parade after the Scuderia's 2004 1-2 finish at the Italian GP. Anyway, I still wish that you lived next door, Scott! Fred

 

sold rosso rubino metallizatto 04948 to a collector in Denmark a few months ago. Interesting to see a car just two spots down the line here.

 

Fantastic thread, thanks much for taking the time to post such great photos.

I'm rebuilding the suspension on my '85 308GTS (wishbones look identical to your Dino's), and was planning on replacing all of the nyloc nuts for the a-arm to chassis mounts. Until today that is - everyplace I called or can find online CANNOT get 13mm nylocs - apparently the auto industry has a monopoly on this size?!

Anyone have a source for 13mm nyloc nuts in the US? Eurospares looks to have them at around $2.25 per, but there has to be a US source for a box of 25, right?

thanks, and salud
Kurt

 

Mcmaster.com

 

thanks, but all nut sizes (Nyloc or otherwise) go straight from M12 to M14...
http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylock-nuts/=21z4a9

looks like the same blower fans Dino/308 also

 

I really have to hand it to you guys.....every time I look at the fotos of everything being pulled apart I just groan to myself.....
that's the easy part you're doing now...what a project....
I'm sure you have all of our support for the coming months..

Gregg
206 GT 00350

 

Jon,

To quote Yogi Berra,This is like DeJa Vu all over again! I just came across your posts about #4946 and couldn't believe it. I too have a black Dino (1973 #3832) and have just started working on it. I have owned the car since 1979 and I am now going to start restoring it; now that I have time. I said that I would not touch it until I had the time and didn't feel rushed. I am doing some maintenance in the attached pictures. I have been slowly replacing all of the hoses on the vehicle since I don't trust 30 year old rubber parts. Your series is excellent as are your photos. I had my son take the attached shots since he is teaching me how to use forum.

You guys will have to bear with me until I get up to speed. I have tons of questions, and I have finally found a forum where I can get some answers!

Keep up the good work. My son just got home from Purdue for the summer so he will be helping me when time allows. I liked your son's work schedule. Now that I am retired, I don't have a schedule. I get up in the morning and go out to my shop with no employees and no phone and work on my cars and boat. Life is good!

Here are some pictures. I think it is interesting to see the subtle differences in the hardware. It makes me wonder if any two of these cars are truly identical. It seems that running changes were the order of the day.

Darth

How can I get a set of the TAV drawings?
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USA version rear, but single post bumpers and A/C?
recessed marker lights, but "clapping" style wipers

This is no ordinary Dino
... it needs its own thread too - Welcome to the forum!

 

The front inner structure (trellis) is not USA spec either. Most likely this car is a grey market with USA side marker ights.
It looks like a great car and I hope you enjoy it fully.

 

Thanks Jon,

I will give those sources a try. Disassembly sure looks easier when you have the whole layout in front of you. I like your way of going by group. I am a firm believer in tubs, tags, and zip lock bags.

Supposedly, the car was originally purchased in '72 from the local Ferrari dealer,The Sports Car Exchange, in Dearborn, MI by a Ford Motor Executive named Gilmour(rumored to be in styling). I bought the car in '79 from the same place after it had been wrecked and taken in on trade when the second owner's son who ran out of talent, had brain fade and went off-roading. The damage was very minimal and took less than $500 to fix the wrinkled door skin. The car was originally silver with blue upholstery. Several years ago, I had the color changed to black and re-did the seats in tan to match the rest of my cars which are all Black and Tan. I have a thing for Black and Tan.

The side marker lights have never been changed and as far as I know it is the USA version. The speedo is in MPH, and the manifolds have air injection bungs and the documentation is all in English. I have driven the car sparingly until I had time to devote to a functional restoration. I just finished the body off resto on my wife's car and now I can get to my cars. We drive hers to shows/events and she runs errands so she's happy.

The Ferrari front emblem is a procedure that a local body man (Gary Fiester sp? I'm told) did on some of the local Dinos sold by the SCE. He removed the Dino emblem, took a thin hole saw and cut the remaining pocket out of the nose and then rotated the pocket 90 deg. then welded it back in. Once it was metal finished and repainted and rebadged, it looked stock. Dino owners are the only people who catch it. I guess it was an answer to the "Not a true Ferrari" conundrum that Dino owners and dealers found themselves in at the time. I really don't care. My paparazzi retort has always been 'A"-If it is so unholy, why has it been a perennial favorite on everybody's list of the most beautiful cars, and "B" if you want to talk money, I'll compare my current value/acquisition price ratio with anybody (remember, I bought the car in '79). "C" The car is for me to enjoy. If I find it fun and it makes me feel good, then it's a keeper. When it no longer does that it gets swapped (Hence the term "SwapIron") like a daily driver. 'D' No the car is not fast. It never claimed to be. If you want fast, there are many opportunities to scare yourself.

Any sources for heater vent hose and air cleaner to intake box hose? How about brake hoses. I am weighing stock rubber vs Braided stainless over teflon race car stuff.

Thanks again for the input.

Darth

"Driving that thing was kinda like trying to dribble a football" anonymous racer - circa 1967

 

Just noticed yesterday that you started another Dino. I am currently restoring an Iso Grifo. I am always amazed at how many parts are packed into these Dino's. Keep up the good work and thanks for posting all the pictures so we can watch your project move along.