I decided having gone this far I should go ahead and remove the tub. Actually it was a lot easier than anticipated. It is in 2 sections with just a light layer of fiberglass at the sills and where the pieces butt together. The strips peeled right off and then just a matter of drilling the rivets out. I took the back section out so far. I was really suprised how flimsy it was, it bends quite easily. The side facing the engine is covered with approx. 3/4 inch foam.. I don't know if this is for sound or heat. Anyways the next project is to remove the front piece. This opens up my options as far as paint removal goes. With no fiberglass I can dip the car as an option. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Jon - looks great. Wish I had done this. It will be interesting to see how things line-up upon reassembly. I have the wiring harness in and ready. The fuse and relay panels complete. Steering rack, and a great deal of odds and ends now in. Almost ready for the engine. I am trying to stage the appropriate order of reassembly. I believe that I will attack the suspension last. Engine will go in before fuel tanks because they can be installed easily with the engine in and the suspension off. More to come. Jim S.
jselevan, while it has been a few years since my restoration, I remember I had to get my gas tanks in before the engine went in. Anyway, good luck with the home stretch. ...Keith
I would be a little leery of dipping the car. I think it is a crap shoot that they get all the chemical out of the car what with the tubular frame and a thousand crevices. Soda blasting might be a way to go. I restored a '52 Dodge stake bed truck that we had dipped and I would never do it again. We washed and cleaned and blew the bodywork out several times and still have one or two spots where apparently some of the stripping fluid has weeped out. I don't see how you would ever be absolutely sure you got all the stripper out.
Keith - I have removed the passenger tank in the past without removing the engine, and with the suspension on the car. Looking at it now, it should be a slam-dunk to install the tanks after the engine is in as long as the suspension is still off the car. However, your observation is well received, and I have given this a great deal of thought. Other's experience is greatly appreciated. It is desirable to install the engine without the tanks as it allows rather easy access to the forward exhaust manifold. I prefer to install the engine without the forward exhaust manifold. Bolting on the forward exhaust manifold while the engine is dangling, or after it is in, is a royal pain in the rosey red rectum (I'm a student of alliteration). In addition, your observation concerning order of reassembly is important with respect to fuel tank hoses. The cross-over tube along the bottom of the firewall is another challenge, which would be accomplished easier if the tanks were installed before the engine, as you recommend. Alas, there is no easy way to get from here to there. Jim S.
I,m not sure what I'll be doing. There seems to be downsides to all methods. I heard blasting causes panel warpage, soda blasting gives a great finish but gets in all the crevices and causes problems later and I've heard both sides of dipping. I also heard problems of dipping are a thing of the past. More research to do as I'm not married to any of the methods. Any other experiences with paint stripping with any of these methods, good or bad would be appreciated, or any other methods.
Find someone that does plastic media blasting. Done correctly this causes no damage. They can remove one layer of paint at the time. Take off all paint and leave filler or remove filler also. Good luck, Terry
GM engineer Mark Stielow built a 69 Camaro from the ground up. He had the bare shell and other panels stripped, etched, e-coated and then baked. the last 3 steps are what the OEMs use to produce cars today. The company has multiple tanks, washes and ovens that treat them in that sequence. The work was done by International Paint Stripping, Inc. 15300 Oakwood Dr. Romulus, MI 48174 Phone: 734-942-0500 Fax: 734-942-0573 This thread might help http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/e-coating-18786.html BTW, now that you removed the tub, are you going to reglass in the old stuff or use those as templates for new fibergalss? Heck, since they were so flimsy you could glass in a carbon fiber honeycomb material or some other kind of more modern composite. As for the foam, you might try to find some aerospace quality material. I think I posted this link before http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/soundprf.html This has been one of the best threads on f-chat.
Thanks for the info. I never thought about replacing the fiberglass with a newer type material, not a bad idea. I welcome all ideas to make the car better and the dipping choice is growing on me.
I did a test on the foam that is glued onto the engine side of the fiberglass tub.. I was wondering if it was fireproof. The side towards the engine has this goop sprayed over it also on the fiberglass on the driver side. The goop is fireproof as seen with the torch. The foam is not fireproof as you can also see. I think Jim found fireproof foam. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Jon - I believe you saw the foam I am using. I will put a torch to it tomorrow to see if it burns. I did use a butane lighter to test it, and it did not burn. However, the torch test is absolute. Here is the link to the foam. http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplCtlgPage.asp?reqtyp=catalog&CtlgPgNbr=3305&sesnextrep=605836540775959&CtlgEdition=112&k1=9349K9&t1=PN&ScreenWidth=1024&McMMainWidth=812 Jim S.
I took the very same panel out of my car last night and what worries me about all this foam is the moisture retention that it potentially has. Is the replacement foam you are considering of a different density as so to eleviate this problem? If so then i shall have to try and locate it over here. Also i take it the 'gloop' as Jon mentions is an intumescent spray, has anybody replaced this on their car or is this why some cars (as in Jons case) fitted with an aluminium sheet in front of the foam? Regards GP P S Jon, Why is black beauty on the lift?
Aloha. I took out my wasted/carpeted/cracked fiberglass front batchboard and took it to my friend who repairs surfboards. He fixed all the cracks and re-fiberglassed some broken spots then returned the surface to it's original texture....he even masked off the slightly rusty hinges ..looks very good!....find a shop near you and it might work better than trying to make a new one......Gregg
As an old surfboard maker in the late 60's I will just refurbish the glass a little, actually it is in fine shape. I took the front half of the tub out today. You have to cut two corners out to get the tub out. It looks like a couple of braces were welded in after the tub was put in. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Density is not the issue. Foams are open cell or closed cell. Open cell should not be used in a car. Open cell = sponge. Closed cell = sealed air bubbles.
Omgjon:What's happening, you taking a break? I'm watching this thread from UK & its a fantastic detailed record.
Besides the car I have to fit in bicycling, racquetball, wakeboarding, dirt biking, building a house, wife, 2 dogs, 2 horses and 3 kids with 2 spouses. The only rest I get is when I work on the Dino. Oh the above are in no certain order as my wife comes first.
Jon - the foam that I am using and referenced at McNaster Carr is closed cell. I put a torch to it today and it did not catch fire. It flamed while the torch was on it, but upon removing the torch it simply smoked. I used this same foam between the fiberglass members of the firewall (passenger/engine bay). I also used the foam under the floor, where there previously was no foam. When I tap on the floor it now creates a dull thud. Previously it was like a base drum. In addition, I will be adding Dynamat on the passenger side of the floor, inside door skins, roof, and inside firewall. Hope to make the car quiet despite the Tubi. I installed the radiator and fans today. Just about ready to take it off the rotisserie for suspension, engine and fuel tanks. More to come. Your pictures and narrative are appreciated the world over. Jim S.
I am planning the same thing, now I know which bits to do it with, thanks. What about the tunnel? There should be room to cover with same insulation, that should keep some of the heat at bay. Also when replacing the tub, jus rivet to the frame as original or is there a better way? What do ya think?
Interesting, mine came out clean, no without a fight mind you. It is a march 73 build, I wonder is these braces were added later. Can you take pics and I'll compare. In a way I am glad I did not complete the work so long ago. I was on on my own, now its just amazing, love it!
