Jon, Just for fun I played with your Master Cylinder shots to see what an editor could do. Lot more to work with in the second shot and there was a lot of detail in the shadows. Was not hard to bring it out. Experimet a little and you can have fun with most any shot, no matter how good the original unless it was done in a full-on studio by a pro. I am a retired engineer and spent lots of time in studios watching pros shoot my products for mag ads. Shooting hardware is a lot more work and a lot less fun than shooting pretty girls but there are experts in the trade. I learned a lot and like to pass it on. John Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I got the Dino back today from the blaster. Now you can see it with all it's warts. It looks like there was a shunt on the left headlight area although there was the factory yellow primer there over leaded areas, who knows what happened. Also the same situation in the bottom rear. The plan now is to make sure all the fiberglass goes in easily, then back to the hot rod shop for final metal work, body work and paint. Time to start thinking about a color. I'm sort of open, it was originally red so I probably am leaning towards some shade of red. They said they need the car for about 3 months. Luckily it's only a couple blocks from my hobby shop so I can check up on it every day. Still lots of work to do on the parts while it's gone. I'll probably send it over in a couple of weeks. My son Jeff goes back to college in 2 weeks so I'll be back to doing it myself for awhile. What a fast summer. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I guess JC thinks we'd all be better off if you stopped working on your car, and just worked on your photography skills instead.... Good idea. I'll pay for a year of photography studies for you if you just give me the keys to your garage/workshop (of course with everything left inside). I've got the school picked out for you already -- somewhere on a remote island in the middle of the South Atlantic. Mark P.S. In reality, I have enjoyed your postings and photos, AND JC's mini photography lessons. Pretty amazing documentation . . . .
Hello Jon, Do you have to prime immediately to prevent surface rust or does the blast media give some protection? I have enjoyed watching the progress of your restoration. Keep up the good work. Regards, Terry Phillips
You have to prime immediately. It starts rusting immediately even though it's not visable to the naked eye.
You aren't using a phosphoric acid based solution to attack the potential rust? I thought zinc chromate primer was more a yellow tone PS - I love the new color, navy grey, can't wait to see the clear coat (tongue firmly in cheek)
It is a zinc chromate primer and it can come in red, white, green, black, and grey. The hot rod shop said rust forms in 16 seconds!
Love the battleship grey. When the car was painted red, could you even see the damaged area by the headlight? Looking back at the pics, I could never tell that was underneath.
No, it was not visable at all. Completely stripping the paint leaves nothing to the imagination. It's all there in it's nakedness to see. That's why everyone looks better at least partially clothed, my opinion only. Most likely to be repainted red, the question is what shade. I love the rosso scuderia on my Stradale but not so sure on a Dino. Any opinions out there.
I went with Rosso Chiarro although I think my color is closer to Rosso Corsa. While colors like Rosso Dino (almost orange) are uniquely Dino and very 70s, this was my first and perhaps only Ferrari and I wanted the traditional Ferrari racing red. If not Rosso Corsa, I think Argento is spectacular and Bianco is really bold and unique. It's going to be spectacular - keep up the great work.
yellow really brings out the lines......gregg Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Excellent thread!! Please paint it in a period correct colour, there were lots of nice ones to choose from. My 0.02 cents
Violet. Be different. It was a factory color. Or black looks stunning on a Dino. Great job. I'm sure whatever color you choose it will be a knockout. Red is good for resale - but after putting so much of yourself in a car it's tough to sell.
Go dark red with the same quality finish as the Black Dino. I did my Alfa Sprint Specialle in a blood red (we matched my blood in a sunny parking lot; added a little blue) with a clear coat, rubbed out all over. Great color, second only to metalic blue. Have fun with that car Jon. You will have earned it. John P.S. That shot of the reflections in the door of the black Dino is fantastic. Tells such a story. JC
John, I love your spirit and thought process and I love the near yellow on the Dino I thought would never work. Learning is the most wonderful thing. Gary
Is there a standard Dino color in between Blue Dino Metallic 106-a-72 and Azzuro Metallic 106-a-32. My roomate in college had a 72gt Metallic blue/ tan but I think the color was somewhere in between these colors? It was stunning. Rosso Dino is a strong contender at this point also. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Possibilities. I did not take these photos. I hope it is okay to post. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
more possibilities. Some pics I took at Monterey 2004 Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
In the second photo above, the green, pinot verde, Dino is owned by John Giorganengno. I've seen him win multiple shows and awards 's over the years.