Dino Restoration | Page 29 | FerrariChat

Dino Restoration

Discussion in '206/246' started by omgjon, Feb 18, 2006.

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  1. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    if those are the same CV joints the 308 uses you can get new ones from pelican parts and not have to worry about a bad bearing or cage. the porsche used the same exact ones as the 308 and it has all the right markings since it's still the same mfg.

    not sure if you knew that or not, if so then nevermind. i'll get a part number if you need.
     
  2. omgjon

    omgjon F1 Rookie
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    I don't know if they are the same as a 308. Do the ball bearings and cage wear out?
     
  3. omgjon

    omgjon F1 Rookie
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    Thanks John.
     
  4. ferrarifixer

    ferrarifixer F1 Veteran
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    the balls are just 7/8" balls and can be bought from any local bearing supplier. Just visually inspect them. If they are obviously worn or dull, change them, but if they are clean and shiny then re-use them. The inner and outer races usually last for ever...(providing the car was maintained properly) if there's just a small notch where the balls drive mostly, they'll be fine. But if the surface is heavily marked, then new ones are needed. They're just a Lobro joint, and the same on all models from 246 to Daytona, Boxer and even F40... ie they're tough!

    The cv joints will actually go together TWO ways.. so be sure you get it right...

    If you get it together wrong, there will be no angularity.

    I actually use an old CV joint as a test for junior techs... If they can build one correctly in less than 20 seconds, they can get a job with me!
     
  5. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    yes! the bearings are a harder steel than the cage and race. normal wear will cause the race to open up and get sloppy, if it gets to hot it'll gaul. and moister will cause rust and pitting. the're not to expensive to replace, and it looks like with the amount of work you're doing it could very well be worth it. check the race for scoring, grooves and pitting

    what's the milage on the car? mine were in desperate need of replacement after 76k, one had blued from over heating and lack of grease. two had bad gaulling and pitting. only the one left was decent and i kept it as a desk toy puzzel.

    i'd reccomend repacking with the redline high temp cv grease.
     
  6. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    get it together wrong and it may never come back apart too! it's a great puzzle though. the trick is tipping the inner cage then letting it drop in ;)

    i'd also check for a blue ring on the outer race, if it got hot enough to get a blue ring then the chances are high that the annealing proccess was reversed and future chipping can occur.
     
  7. ferrarifixer

    ferrarifixer F1 Veteran
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    ha ha... can you pass the 20 second test?

    you are allowed to have all parts perfectly clean, and stored in little pots for quick grabbing!
     
  8. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    oh yeah quite easily, i grew up around shops and machining as my dad was a tool and die maker. ;) bearings were my toys as a kid, made great mini cannon guns!

    i find it faster to hold the cage and inner race with all bearings in one hand and slip it into the outer in the other hand. ofcourse having giant sized hands like i do really helps ;)

    i found the reciept from pelican, cheaper than i thought!

    Item Name Item Price Quantity Item Total
    930-332-034-00-M60
    CV Joint, 911 Turbo (1977-84) Brand: Loebro
    $72.50 4 $290.00
     
  9. nerodino

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    I rounded off the heads on mine ever so slightly when dismantling as they were so frickin tight! and thought i had better replace them. But they are 8mm metric fine with a 1.25 pitch and my local specialist has had to order them from Holland! the nuts are very rare and i havent started looking for them yet but suspect that they may have to come direct from Ferrari.
     
  10. nerodino

    nerodino Formula 3
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    I am glad you posted this as i have just put mine back together and two of the four wont twist properly! and i thought it was a bit strange. I noticed that the inner section has a raised edge on one side and took it that that was the face for the circlip or am i wrong? and yes they are a b#s#ard to get apart again.
     
  11. ferrarifixer

    ferrarifixer F1 Veteran
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    You're welcome.

    if you look at the inner and outer races... be sure to get the thin peaks lined up with the thick channels, and NOT thin to thin, thick to thick...

    The raised edge has nothing to do with angularity, it's just a surface reference. The circlip end is totally flat, the raised bit goes rubber boot side.
     
  12. omgjon

    omgjon F1 Rookie
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    What other cross over parts are there, and how do you find out. I would of had no idea that the Porsche CV was the same part as the Dino.
     
  13. nerodino

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    Phil, what paint finish did you use for the fuel tanks?
     
  14. jptyke

    jptyke Formula 3

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    This is the best post! I have read this post in one long sitting and give kudos to you Jon. Great photos, stories and time to spent with your son is fantastic. I eagerly await the finished product!

    john
     
  15. Gary48

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    Ferrari has always been good at utilizing parts from other cars that have been proven and so not having to manufacture it themselves, as an example the 246 brake calipers are 911 Porche.
     
  16. nerodino

    nerodino Formula 3
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    Gary, is that both front and rear?
    Graham.
     
  17. ferrarifixer

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    I didn't paint the tanks on this car..

    BUT, Although the (baby 5hit) beige paint is technically correct as original, it is not a good design.

    You get much less fuel heating/less vapourisation if you paint them shiny silver.
     
  18. ferrarifixer

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    Not always so.. Porsche actually often used some quite racy aluminium versions... and the spacers are different size for disc thickness... and only front. Porsche has drum handbrake unlike 246 lever type.
     
  19. jselevan

    jselevan Formula 3

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    FerrrariFixer,

    I believe that the Porsche 914-6 used the same ATE rear calipers.

    Jim S.
     
  20. dignini

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  21. omgjon

    omgjon F1 Rookie
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    #721 omgjon, Oct 18, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The body is moving along at the body shop. That is an interesting process to watch as they smooth it all out. It's suppose to be in that phase for about 3 weeks before it moves to the paint shop. I'm working on the pedal board, the ventillation-heating system and started the fuel system. I know you'll cringe, but I stripped all the gunk off the tanks and powder coated them and powder coated the straps. The heater radiators I had flushed and checked for leaks. One was cracked and had to be patched, that's where the rust was coming from. The heater boxes are powder coated and ready for reassembly. The pedal board is also ready for reassembly. I'm still waiting for pistons to start the engine project. I tried the Caswell cad plating system, seemed to work pretty good. I also tried the yellow cad system as well wasn't that impressed. Onward and forward.
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  22. CAS

    CAS F1 Rookie

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    Jon,

    As someone who doesn't own a Ferrari but is relatively young (21), in college, and aspires to own one, I would like to thank you for sharing this project with everyone. In addition to some fascinating pictures and commentary from you and other Dino owners, it's very cool to see this car get broken down and put back together using the right tools and technology.

    Thanks again, it's one of the best threads on FChat right now.

    Best,
     
  23. need4speed

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    Jon,

    This reminds me of when I was building plastic model kits. All the parts nicely painted before assembly. Just beautiful. Thanks again for sharing.

    Manny
     
  24. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

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    omgjon,

    Your attention to detail is amazing. This is so much fun to watch. I like being an armchair restorer! Just a question, how many hours a week are you putting into this on average? I'm just curious because we see the pictures and have no real feel for how much time goes into the steps. Basically, you make it look easy, and I know it's not. It would give me a feel for the time involved if I could get an idea how long you are spending on each step.

    Thanks

    Birdman
     
  25. omgjon

    omgjon F1 Rookie
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    I spend about 20 hours a week working on it. Some of that time is non productive as I'm learning as I go. I'm sort of anal about organization and I think it helps in this project. It's really fun to take some grungy old part and make it look beautiful because to me there is so much art in all of the parts. I'm amazed at people who could sit down and actually design a part and have it all work. It's pretty cool. I know there is a end goal in this project, but the journey is the most fun. As for time spent on each project it varies widely. But like the pedal board, I spent a day and a half by the time I figured out how to take it apart, pressed out the bearings, bead blasted the parts, painted, and cad plated some of the parts and it's still not back together. The pictures don't show all the times I have to do something over again. There are a few things though that I feel like an expert now. It is a very rewarding type of work. I worked for a living for 30 years, this is much better.
     

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