Dino Restoration

That destruction is terrible news, hope there is a chance your items survived and you were spared the loss.
In any restoration you undoubtedly have setbacks that you may run into, but those usually are due to the car or your process of restoring and not by others.
Although I did have a chrome surround to the lock trim that spent 6 weeks in Sweden when Verne's Chromer (El Segundo, LA) accidently shipped it with another order.

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In post #721 you show the sump pan for the transaxle and engine. These are a known area that causes leaks. Perhaps you might consider crush washers and nylock nuts? I found this solves the leaking problems in mine.


Also in #721 your dash vent is the three holed type typical of Dinos with the A/C option - are you still jettisoning the A/C taking the time to fill in the A/C in the fiberglas but leaving the dash holes?

 

Sorry about the mishap, not nice! At least you're organized enough have a list of what you lost.....

 

I've used copper (on my USA) and aluminum (on Euro Dino) crush washers and nylocks. If you really want to get fancy, Newco sells yellow insert nylocks which was a Ferrari favorite.

You've already told us that you won't have the intention of showing the car in concours events, so there is probably no need to deal with the dash vent - plus most judges wouldn't know unless they're die-hards like us, so leaving it as it is should be fine for your intentions.

Although I sure enjoyed having A/C when I was in LA with my Dino - can't see why you'd want to remove the A/C when you live in So. Cal.
BTW, There is an improved A/C compressor that will fit in stock position and increase cooling by 40%. TCCI purchased the old York A/C compressor division and now makes a Universal model compressor (good for R-12, R-134a, R-22, etc). I paid $364 for mine.
http://www.ccicompressor.com/universal.aspx

 

Had that cover off 8-9 times before shifting was perfect after last year's rebuild. Big difference in gaskets from diferent suppliers. Big difference in ability to clean up before replacing gasket. DO NOT USE ANEROBIC SEALERS. Or any other glue. Except maybe a little red high temp silicone RTV on the gasket if you know there are scratches or low spots. Silicone can be removed cleanly and easily.

Used gaskets from GT Car Parts and from Superformance. Superformance gaskets were hard and thin. Bad seal and they self destruct during removal whether or not any glue is used. GT gaskets were soft, thicker and stronger. Just coat both sides with bearing grease and they seal fine. You can remove and re-use multiple times.

Key to no drips is the use of Belleville washers under all nuts. They were used by the factory but most mechanics replace with flat washers or do not replace Belleville with the right orientation. These special washers are cone shaped and fully hardened. The cone is flattened to provide a spring action that takes up temp variations in thickness of gasket and aluminum parts. Peak of cone MUST be against the nut, base of cone MUST be against the aluminum. Small area against steel, large area against aluminum. No damage to either material.

Factory Bellevilles have a smaller OD than readily available US parts but US parts work fine. Looks better if you do not mix on any given part.

Been most of a year, no leaks, just as the factory intended!

John

 

Jon.

Belleville washers are available at McMaster-Carr. www.mcmaster.com search for belleville, they'll come up.

However, this won't address the other source of leaks, which is weeping around the studs. I don't get leaks anywhere else.

Solved that problem by using a washer that has a rubber donut in the middle. When you torque them to 96 inch lbs. the expand slightly and form a seal around the stud threads.

They are also available at McMaster-Carr. And Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=012&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=220019354767&rd=1,1

DM
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DM great info!
The ones on ebay have rubber inserts, is that a valid application on the Dino?

 

I use a similar version that I buy from McMaster-Carr. My mechanic has used both, and actually prefers the ones sold on ebay.

They can also be bought from:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EAR%2D178004ERL&N=700+115&autoview=sku

of course there it's $4.99 a PAIR!!

DM

 

The Maserati V-8 engines seal their valve covers with this same technique. Wurth 469-6 is the part number of the 6mm washer with rubber sealing on tthe interior diameter.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6743/Bora/partsinterchange.html


The ones "sold on Ebay" are from Jacques, a well known Maserati (and now Ferrari) supplier.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33580&viewitem=&item=220019351628
These are the wurth product for 6mm studs.

Scott

 

Dave and Jon,

If the oil shows around the studs it is because the gasket does not seal and the studs are the closest way out. Studs go into blind holes. O-ring just delays time for oil to work its way out. O-ring does not provide the same spring action as the Belleville washers. Once again, factory had it right the first time. Picture shows studs and sealing surface. From "Dino Saga 060212". Jon, take a look at the washers you took off. They are probably original and you will see the slight conical shape. Same washers used all over. Critical for water pump too. Black oxide so can be used again as is or clean, oil and bake to no more than 300 degrees to make them look like new. Or just buy new ones.

John
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OK John, Gonna put your theory to the test.

I'm ordering the correct belleville washers, but first, what size do I want?

A little assist from you on this would be most welcome.

Then, I'll take some time this weekend and put them on, torque them properly, and see what happens.

If that doesn't do it, I'll get my mechanic to replace the gaskets, and use these and see where we end up.

Oh, and anyone who wants in, I'll be happy to order enough of these for everyone, just send me a PM in the next day or so.

Now back to our regularly scheduled program on Jon's restoration.

Dave

 

Yikes!

 

might want to check the solder joints on that tank

Sorry to hear about the fire and to think I almost flipped my lid when they lost one of my carburator mixture screws in the bottem of a plating tank. Hope everyone was safe, parts can always be replaced but lives can't.

omgjon as you know I have several Dino projects at the moment so let me know what you can't recover and I am sure Tom or I can help you out.

Zac

 

The correct, original "FIM - Bologna" tanks are still around, I bought a spare two years ago. Since you're not going to show the car why not use the Superformance stainless steel tank instead?

 

Jon, Shocked at your bad news on my return from holiday. hope you can obtain the lost items I remember that Maranello UK had a Screen trim last time i spoke to them about £500.00 though!

Regarding the header tank mine has a couple of tiny corrosion holes in it. is it worth repairing and sealig it with an epoxy resin or do i replace it?
( would you believe it i was in Bologna on Sunday!) Where are the FIM tanks available from? apart from Bologna!
Regards G.P.

 

dinoparts.de

 

omgjon,

I'm so sorry to hear about this. This thread has been an incredible journey. And I've followed along every step of the way. I feel this as much as you do. Those are the pieces left but what was not recovered?

Manny

 

This is really a bummer. Between the various Ferrari parts suppliers who have new/used bits to replace the ones you lost and the FerrariChat community who no doubt have parts you can copy should originals be unavailable, you'll be back on track in no time.

Hang in there.

 

Jon, A question, How did you clean up your fibreglass inner tub and inner wheel arch pieces, Blast or thinners etc?
Regards, G.P.