Dino Restoration

Glad to hear you could get spares.

Thanks for sharing the process. It looks great.

 

The Carb air cleaner is the first deviation from stock possibilities that I've seen. Since you've opened this door, are you planning other upgrades?
Brakes?
Ignition Box?
Lights? I know you haven't gone to LEDs or HIDs yet, but there is still time...


Best Holiday Wishes for success...
...and upholding that January scheduled "coming out" party

 

There may be many resources for Dino Weber pics to allow best choices on finishes. Here is one i found, the Weber doesnt look exact same with splayed needles, but the yellow zinc and brass show up well -
http://www.caresa.com.ar/imagenes/gd/40-40DCNF-25-25.jpg
What a great job of documenting this Dino project for all of Fchat. I have been lost in the beauty of this, with great delight, for hours. Thank you for posting all of this great work.
The smaller air cleaners will make a nicer engine compartment.
Craig

 

I have always thought the two major cast pieces for a Weber, any model made in the 60's or 70's, were machined and then dipped into an Iridite or Alodine process to provide some measure of corrosion control. This finish or process is not well understood by most and i find no documentation on this. It may be an unimportant detail.
Craig

 

Be careful with the tiles for they are fragile and can crack pretty easily if you run over them with something like an engine crane or drop something heavy on them. At least that is what happened to the ones we have...

 

Jon, there's the close up of repaired headlight area that I wanted to see... Hey, are you serious about this Dino party?

 

Ahhhh, have to have a Dino to get an invite - I'm out... Darn!

 

I have a Dino !!!

Does my Dino count enough to get me a invite ? or does it have the wrong badge on the front ?

 

Fiat Dino Spyder is the coolest "almost Ferrari" ever. My dad used to have one... So cool!

 

I managed to get a nice texture to the paint on the targa roll bar on my 911 by spraying hamerite into the air (i.e not directly) and letting it settle, before adding a smooth satin coat.

I have really enjoyed watching the restoration, and will always regret selling my Dino. Keep up the good work

 

Jon, I'm going to buy a bucket of bolts GT4 so I can crash your party...lol!

 

Mine has the satin finish on the exterior of the removable top. I believe it is original and also consistent with concours winners that I've seen.
To be really picky about it, then I'd call it a matte finish.

 

Just out of curiosity, what are your goals - I've seen your strict attention to original details but you're never going to concours it, right? If this is a driver, are you shunning performance modifications like brakes, ignition, or any of the numerous Corbani's suggestions?

Brake Concerns
Our local Fclub is very active and we host many 3 day drives where we were able to do some fast runs this last year. The braking ability of the Dino at speed was my biggest concern. All brakes and components on my car were new or newly refurbished so they we're at optimum condition but there were some times when it took quite a bit of pedal pressure to bring speeds down.

Ignition
I'm curious to see what you will use for the ignition as the Dinoplex doesn't really produce a very hot spark and will not survive a short circuit event like jump starting, etc. There are many aftermarket units, but that doesn't seem to be your style of originality. Perhaps the permatune gutted/refitted Dinoplex?


Best wishes for a Happy Holiday!

 

Re Brakes.

I was at Superformance in the UK this afternoon and they showed me a Brembo conversion they do for the 246 with four pot calipers, looks very effective ( as long as you are'nt a purist!)
regards G.P.

 

Lookin' good Jon!

 

This car is going to be better than new.

 

Fantastic Jon,
I had been meaning to get under the car and look at my oil temp sender, your photos make this quite clear.

BTW, one problem that may arise is that the Transaxle fill plug could seize in the installed position (personal experience). On a related thread the poster recommended using an Aluminum crush washer rather than Copper to reduce the potential for electrolysis causing the seize. I had been using a Copper crush washer but I also probably over-tightened it too.

I had also thought about using anti-seize compound on the threads but didn't want to have the possibility of getting any in the oil.