Dino Restoration

for insulation purposes I'd use the mcmaster-carr item# 9356k11; high temp rock wool sheeting. it's used in furnaces so it's smoke and flame resistant.

 

Jon - I just purchased several sheets of .040 aluminum sheet for Tom C.'s heat shield. My guy is fabricating a new one from my original template.

I ordered from McMaster Carr two types of heat-insulating cloth to sandwhich between the aluminum sheets. I believe the proper stuff (modern technology) is a ceramic cloth (McMaster Carr # below).

1 1
Each 93315K41 Ultra-High Temp Ceramic Insulation Sheeting 6 lbs/cu Feet Density, 1/4" Thk, 24" X 25', White $25.78 $25.78 today

2 3
Ft. 93435K16 Silica Insulation 1/4" Thick X 36" Width $13.57 $40.71 today

However, I also ordered the Silica insulation to see if it would be a better choice (visually). I should receive them in a few days, and will likely have excess material that you are more than welcome to. I will let you know which looks best for the job.

No, I would not use the black material that you (and I) chose for the passenger firewall.

Jim S.

 

How does one get invited to your party? Love the dino. Been watching.. JJ

 

Just thought I'd let you know that I believe that superperformance may have NEW Dino dash instrument panels as per original (the alloy plate that holds the instruments), and the stainless sill trims at the door entry. If they cannot help you give Gerry an email at [email protected] and I know he can.
I hope this helps, and congrats on a stunning job.
Cheers MG

 

Yes, you can powder coat anything metal that will take the 400 cure temp

That looks like Eastwoods "Almost Chrome" powder, it should look very good for a very long time. Wish I had taken some pictures, I powdered some Dino valve covers in Black Wrinkle a few months ago for a friends 246, they came out looking great. But in the "Almost Chrome" color it should really brighten up the motor area.

And YES you can powder the coolant overflow tank but that really should be painted with Radiator paint. Radiator paint goes on super thin to help cooling and powder is quite thick, it will keep some heat in. I have powdered radiators before when a guy wanted some weird color or texture but I would not powder my cooling system, I just use black radiator paint. A quality radiator paint should be able to stick to the overflow tank without peeling like normal paint.

 

Thanks for the info. I used hi-temp engine paint and will strip it and try again.

 

When you pop riveted the heat shield to the rear bulkhead did the rivets pull down the outer aluminum sheet very much? Does it squish the inuslation in and leave a deep depressed area or not so much? I think the fiberglass insulation is about 1/2" thick between the two sheets and I would think this would compress a good bit before the pop rivet popped.

 

Racerboy9 - The actual heat insulating material is 1/4" thick at most. I just dismantled my heat shield and am fabricating a new one. I ordered ceramic material from McMaster Carr, which arrived today. It is perfect. I ordered 1/4" material.

When pop-riveting the 3 aluminum sheets together I have not found that the material is compressed significantly.

Jim S.

 

Jon - read post #1428;

1
Each 93315K41 Ultra-High Temp Ceramic Insulation Sheeting 6 lbs/cu Feet Density, 1/4" Thk, 24" X 25', White $25.78 total $25.78

2
Ft. 93435K16 Silica Insulation 1/4" Thick X 36" Width $13.57 total $40.71

I am using 93435k16 - 3 feet of it (cost is 13.57 per foot).

I have a roll of 93315k41 (25 feet), which for all the world looks identical to the 93435k16. I was going to send it back, but if you want some let me know.

Yes, I am having a piece fabricated for Tom C. A craftsman down the street has finished (took him 2 days), and it looks beautiful. A few hours work at $35 per hour. Don't have the final price. I purchased the aluminum sheet at Industrial Metal Supply (Irvine) - 3 sheets of 40 thousandths...5032 specification. He has cut and shaped the metal and riveted it all together. If you would like for me to ask him for another, he likely has my left over unused metal and insulation. I can get more aluminum sheet if necessary at IMS. I used my original trunk firewall as the template. You may have to make some minor snips to get it to fit perfectly in your car. I can bring down Tom's next week for you to see it, or you are welcome to come up and bring your old one as a template. The craftsman is going racing after Tuesday for a week, and will be back the following week. Let mke know.

Jim S.

 

Great resto documentation! Amazing. Kept me busy reading for the last 2 hours... just breifly skimming, but blown away by the detail, and documenting. Nice.
Question for ya.... doing your "flares" conversion (or whatever you would call it) where were you able to get a pattern for the flares? I am thinking of doing flares on a '74, and am curious how easy it is to get patterns for the flares. Also... do you remember aprox how many hours it might take to add the flares onto the car? Cutting metal, fitting to the car, welding to the car, then needed bodywork to blend to the body? Just trying to get a ball part idea of the time involved. ;o) Thanks so much! Can't wait to see your car finished!

 

That would be David Steele's car.
A great guy, very soft spoken and humble. He and I used to hang out at Carl's shop, Blackhorse motors, during that concours restoration in 2003-2004 and chat about Dino stuff. He not only won Cavallino but several others including a front page and spread article in Forza.

 

1. Are the toolkit pieces from the Miura?

2. Where is the scissors jack from?

3. A Pirelli tire? What size, what price, where from?

Thanks -
Mark

 

LoVe the Lamborghini gloves

 

If I would have had young mens activities like that I would have gone to a lot more of them.
I'm not sure if you answered last time but is your Miura a Euro or US model?